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Old 06-24-2010, 03:09 PM   #9811
RoaringDS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thistle66
bt might have hit the nail on the head here. vibration & jarring etc etc. How about a couple mills of rubber and extra load points?

edit" D'oh; just saw you had rubber mounting...you can ignore me.
I am beginning to wonder/worry that it is the upwards force on that crossmember which caused the damage. I hate to give up on the single seat. It's so comfortable!
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The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena...who strives valiantly, who errs & comes short again; ...who at the best, knows in the end the triumph of great achievement; and who, at the worst, if he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither vicotory nor defeat. ~Theodore Roosevelt
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:46 PM   #9812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mats
Fitted new, flatter, handlebars. They're some kind of modern mx-type bend.
I like them!
Mats,

Love the flat bars. With the signals, zard pipe and small gauge it gives the bike a truly bitchin' stance.

Is that the stock headlight? It looks a little bigger than normal but it could be the smaller speedo throwing off the perspective.
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Old 06-24-2010, 04:58 PM   #9813
Maxacceleration
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoaringDS
I am beginning to wonder/worry that it is the upwards force on that crossmember which caused the damage. I hate to give up on the single seat. It's so comfortable!
There is no upward force on the crossmember.
I will draw up another brace for the rear rack bolts or a combined brace for all four rack bolts.
First I have to weld/reinforce where the crossmember cracked.
Still, I'm trying to strengthen a poor design of Triumphs.

Yes I love the solo seat also.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DireWolf
Sounds dangerous.
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:11 PM   #9814
ivara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration
I think that is quite possible.
I put support under the front rack bolts. I also need to support the rear rack bolts, which I did not.
I thought the rear seat bolts would be enough, but quite obviously not.
When I look at that brace, the rear bolt holes are weakened alot by those cut-outs in the brace, serving as break-points. I'm sure the front holes would have held up better - 'more meat around'em'
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:54 PM   #9815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivara
When I look at that brace...
We are all looking for the cure...
I am doing some trial & error.

Bring on a bombproof design...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DireWolf
Sounds dangerous.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:00 PM   #9816
MightyChosen1
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Dont give up Max! Looks to me like the crossmember is just a thin piece of stamped steel. I bet if you just cut it out and welded in a chunk of 1/8" plate steel it would be fine.

If I get a chance this weekend I will pull my seat off and make a pattern. The only thing I need to figure out is how to fab the seat screw mount. I cant bend 1/8" plate but maybe I could tig weld a couple nuts on the back.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:10 PM   #9817
Mats
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramble
Mats,

Love the flat bars. With the signals, zard pipe and small gauge it gives the bike a truly bitchin' stance.

Is that the stock headlight? It looks a little bigger than normal but it could be the smaller speedo throwing off the perspective.
Thanks Ramble! Headlight is a Lucas 7" one, same type as used on the old limey bikes. It fits right on the stock brackets. Although I've cut and altered my brackets slightly making the lamp sit a bit lower on, and closer to, the forks.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:25 PM   #9818
Benz
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Are there fork and shock upgrades for the Scramblers? I'd love to put some Ohlins on there but is that even a possibility?

Ultimately I want to do a Scrambler with a big bore stroker motor with good suspension. I know the big bore kits are out there but I haven't been finding much as far as the suspension goes.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:38 AM   #9819
trustme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz
Are there fork and shock upgrades for the Scramblers? I'd love to put some Ohlins on there but is that even a possibility?

Ultimately I want to do a Scrambler with a big bore stroker motor with good suspension. I know the big bore kits are out there but I haven't been finding much as far as the suspension goes.
The most common fork fix is the fitting of Race Tech emulators, Traxion Dynamics do a kit that is pretty expensive, I am only aware of it being fitted to a race bike so can't comment on how good it is on the road.
Ohlins are definately available, the suspension tech who set mine up said not to worry about the remote resevoir shocks as the non resevoir shock had sufficient volume to prevent overheating & fade . His advice has proven correct & saved me money.
No matter what you do they are never going to provide a really plush ride , there is too little suspension travel.
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Old 06-25-2010, 02:09 AM   #9820
ivara
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benz
Are there fork and shock upgrades for the Scramblers? I'd love to put some Ohlins on there but is that even a possibility?
My Bonnie with Ricor intiminator fork valves + Öhlins PL36 shocks in scrambler lenght: Before, the bike was punishing to ride on gravel even short distances, the forks transmitted everything up into my hands. Now, its a blast to ride on gravel.
Lots of alteratives to Ohlins also, for road use, Hagons/Ikons/Progressive will do. For the more gnarly stuff, you got Works, YSS, Ricor (and probably others that deserve mention)
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ivara screwed with this post 06-25-2010 at 02:15 AM
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Old 06-25-2010, 04:17 AM   #9821
Swarf
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Trick Scrambler

Don't know if this a repost, but this is about as elemental as you can get on a Scrambler.

http://hellforleathermagazine.com/po...kpine-lyt.html
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Old 06-25-2010, 07:58 AM   #9822
RoaringDS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration
There is no upward force on the crossmember.
I will draw up another brace for the rear rack bolts or a combined brace for all four rack bolts.
First I have to weld/reinforce where the crossmember cracked.
Still, I'm trying to strengthen a poor design of Triumphs.

Yes I love the solo seat also.
I am not trying to argue here but help with solving the issue. So if you have something strapped to the rear rail would it not pull the seatbolts and crossmember up then bring the weight back down when going over a dip or bump? This up and down force maybe twisting the sheetmetal and causing those cracks. In the case of the stock seat, a passenger comes up off the seat and their weight would not put any force upward. Maybe my thinking is all wrong there.

I just recently mounted a Norman Hyde L/H pannier rack and Givi E21. The included mounting plate may help with this. I will take and post pics as soon as I can.
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The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena...who strives valiantly, who errs & comes short again; ...who at the best, knows in the end the triumph of great achievement; and who, at the worst, if he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who know neither vicotory nor defeat. ~Theodore Roosevelt
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:24 AM   #9823
ColoradoKevin
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What's the cheapest shock upgrade out there? I've shopped a couple, but if I remember correctly, the prices were in the $800-1,200 range. Can it be done for less?

How long does it take for stock shocks to wear out? At least then I would have to upgrade...
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:49 AM   #9824
panthercity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Scrambling
What's the cheapest shock upgrade out there? I've shopped a couple, but if I remember correctly, the prices were in the $800-1,200 range. Can it be done for less?

How long does it take for stock shocks to wear out? At least then I would have to upgrade...
Probably the cheapest are Ikons and, IMNSHO, they aren't worth it.

The stock shocks will continue keeping the springs in place for decades
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:51 AM   #9825
thistle66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado Scrambling
What's the cheapest shock upgrade out there? I've shopped a couple, but if I remember correctly, the prices were in the $800-1,200 range. Can it be done for less?

How long does it take for stock shocks to wear out? At least then I would have to upgrade...

Ikons? Dunno how much they cost but they're a common choice for Bonnie owners. I read a few complaints about Ikons blowing out tho'. If it was me, I'd look at the non-piggyback YSS shocks. They're about $500 and should be pretty good shocks. I'm sure there are other options also; those are the two I can think of right now.
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