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Old 06-01-2006, 03:28 PM   #16
Earthshake
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Location: Greenville, SC
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Te610

Quote:
Originally Posted by scfrank
Hey, I just bought one. Pick it up Friday ! Upstate Cycle, SC
I was all excited when Upstate Cycle told me I could come by and see one on Thursday after it was assembled. When I arrived, they told me the new owner wanted to wait until Friday so he could watch it go together. Well Frank, it must be yours! Unfortunately for me, it was still boxed up. If your in Greenville or nearby, I would appreciate you letting me see it.
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Old 06-02-2006, 07:56 PM   #17
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Talking New TE610 at Upstate Cycle



The new owner wanted to see it put together ! Ya, right. They were very busy and it had to wait in line. I went over today and put it together myself, with some help. I didn't mind, at least I know what was done, and he's right, I ask to help put it together. I enjoyed hanging around the shop. They were very busy.

Gerald, the shop owner, and Charlie the mechanic even stayed late to checked the crank nut for tightness. A lot of shops would have said no. Great people. The nut was tight, by the way. But at least, now I know.

I am very happy with the bike. I can't wait to get some riding in. It's a great size for me. I looked at the 640 adventure and it seemed huge to me. Also a lot more $$. I am looking forward to putting some miles on this bike.

I'd be glad to show it to anyone interested. We can meet and ride somewhere even. Tomorrow I am busy with family, but let me know.

Frank
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Old 06-02-2006, 08:30 PM   #18
buffallodan OP
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Congrats on the bike. Your gonna love it.

I will get diagnosis tomorrow from Mechanic as to whether my Woodruff key is sheered or not. Man its hard not bieng able to ride it for any period of time, and when I get it back I am going to rack up some serious miles...

Dan
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:31 PM   #19
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Sheared Woodruff Key but no gear damage...

The Woodruff Key was sheared on the primary drive gear but the counter balancer key was fine. I got lucky in that it sheared either on start up or shortly after and I didn't ride it hard. All the pieces (3) of the key were still in place and didn't do further damage. I made the mistake of not heeding the warnings of Jim and Chadley and I did notice gear shifting was getting harder, but bieng a new owner of a motorcycle, I didn't understand quite how that was connected to ythe loose nut issue. Thanks to everyone for their help and encouragement as my bike is back together and running better than ever. Shifting is noticably smoother than before the key issue and finding neutral is easier now.
If you are concerned about issues with the Husky's I assure you all the initial problems are simple to solve and so far the 06 models have only had minor hiccups. Thanks to Forums like this we can share the knowledge and solve our problems collectively.

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Old 06-04-2006, 12:42 AM   #20
spagthorpe
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So is this a matter of just taking off one side of the case and checking that one bolt with the blue arrow (first picture)? Is there any warning at all something is about to happen, like false neutrals, or difficult shifting, or you just get the rumble and know you're screwed?
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Old 06-04-2006, 06:54 AM   #21
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I can't speak for the others with this problem and I can only speculate that the shifting difficulty was a warning sign...so since it really is a simple check I WOULD NOT WAIT FOR ANY TYPE OF WARNING FIRST.
It is an easy check: removal of side case is necessary to check screen as well, the orange arrow points to it; so once you have the case off and have checked the screen, go ahead and bend up the washer so you can get an accurate reading of the torque on the nut, It should read 73.5 ft.lbs.
As Jim pointed out above you also need to remove the brake pedal and don't lose the o-rings that will drop out...

Dan





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Old 06-04-2006, 07:25 AM   #22
jimeconomou
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shifting

Dan, I was lean towards no warning as my bike was still shifting well after the rumble started. I had no choice as I was stranded for hours if I waited so I rode it, hoping for the best, straight to the dealer. Got it home from there after they knew there was something wrong and tore it open in my garage, expecting the worst. Turned out everything still worked well except for the rumble we both know so well, oddest feeling I ever had in or on a machine, still surprised by the way it worked on/off and the intensity of it. Glad you got your bike sorted out. Jim.
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Old 06-04-2006, 08:47 AM   #23
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great that there was no damage

Glad to hear you took care of that small problem.

I am still waiting for the parts to come in to repair mine. I have the woodruff key, but am still waiting for the drive gear(32 teeth) and the specially shaped lockwasher. Was your lockwasher damaged? Mine was.
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Old 06-04-2006, 02:06 PM   #24
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I think the washer was fine at least the tab was intact... Mechanic re-used it but I am going to order a couple so I can check the bolt periodically until I am comfortable it isn't moving and the extra washers will mean I won't have to keep rebending them. I am sure they are a cheap part. Mechanic used an off the shelf woodruff key but I will check to make sure they are the same upon inspection. The key fit fine but I am unsure of what kind of tolerance they are designed to. What is your opinion of the shaft and woodruff key design Chadley? Do you think it is sufficient once torqued to not re-occur. I am wondering if a splined drive wouldn't have been better but I am a simple carpenter and know nadda on mechanical engineering...

Dan
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Old 06-04-2006, 10:27 PM   #25
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I would have thought a splined shaft would have been stronger, yes, but there must be, from an engineering standpoint, a reason for using the woodruff key design. I suppose that it is cheaper and easier to fix a broken woodruff key, than a crank with damaged splines. Maybe that is why they use it, so that something cheap and easy breaks before something more substantial and expensive.

I don't expect it to happen again, once I install the new parts and torque the nut down to spec with high temp loctite. I can't wait to post about having a good long ride on the thing.
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Old 06-05-2006, 07:39 AM   #26
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Just wondering, how are you guys locking the crank to check the torque? (had to go to 3 stores to find a 1-1/2" socket. 38mm is impossible unless you have a Snap On rep handy)
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:49 PM   #27
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I'm just guessing, but wouldn't putting in gear lock the crank?
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:10 PM   #28
Hoder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffus
I'm just guessing, but wouldn't putting in gear lock the crank?
I tried that & putting the brake pedal back on but it was too awkward to try & sit on the bike, step on the brake, take up the chain slack & get the torque. I thought maybe there was some place to insert a punch or something through a gear to lock it. How else would they torque it during assembly?
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:59 PM   #29
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My mechanic stuck a screwdriver between the gears. He then used an impact wrench on a low air setting and slowly torqued it down. He went back to where I had the nut before and then checked the torque. I had tightened the primary nut using a crescent wrench and used a breaker bar on the opposite side allowing it to lever against the ground. My method garnered a setting close to 80'lbs and we called it good...
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:11 PM   #30
scfrank
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impact wrench
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