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Old 06-05-2006, 05:04 PM   #31
Chadleys1
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I am going to torque it down with 150 psi driving a 3/4" drive impact wrench. When the threads just start to strip, I am going to TIG weld the nut, shaft, gears, and woodruff key together. Then I will paint the gears, and the clutch, yellow with a smiley face on them, and also paint a red ball on one tooth of each gear so they look like this when the motor is turning. I will then install a couple of 4" diameter sightglass in the cover so the world can see my little smiley face red ball gears spinning in the sun!
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
... just kidding! I am going stir crazy, still waiting for my parts.


The serious answer;
I will probably cut a piece of aluminum to make a brace between the drive gear and the big gear on the clutch. I've done something like this many times with Sportster/Buell engines, and never harmed the gears, you just have to use soft metal. This one will just be shorter since there is no primary chain. If I was in a big hurry, I would ease it down with a 3/8" adjustable impact wrench, but I still think you should check it with a torque wrench.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:19 PM   #32
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If I wasn't clear; my mechanic did check the torque but drove the nut to where I had it before he tore it down...he used this method to show me how one can return to a torque setting simply by aligning the nut to the bent washer assuming it was torqued correctly to begin with.

And Chadley that first paragraph had me rolling even if it was a little painful for me

Dan
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:17 PM   #33
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... a little painful for me too.

hahaha
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:35 PM   #34
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We had 200psi on the lines to the impact wrench.
The lines were buldging.

I learned a long time ago the nuts aren't tight until you stretch the screw.

No sexual references intended.
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Old 06-06-2006, 08:19 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
My mechanic stuck a screwdriver between the gears.
I thought of doing that then thought I'd ask here first. That's not a lot of torque given the stress those gears have to take so I guess a screwdriver won't hurt. I've never seen anything like this where no locking mechanism was provided.
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Old 06-06-2006, 01:22 PM   #36
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Hi guys,

I think a common method is use of a soft metal like a penny to lock the gears at mesh.
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:08 AM   #37
boxertwinuk
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I've had my Husky now for six months and done about a 1,000 miles on it with no problems...I take it that it should be okay in that case?

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Old 06-08-2006, 06:58 AM   #38
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Even though the issue Probably only affected a small number of early bikes it is an easy check and should be done. You need to remove that side case anyway to check that screen so when you are in there bend back the washer and put a torque wrench on it.

Another thing I am not sure I mentioned is the oil pump must be lined up when you replace the case. Make sure you check that it is and gently press the case back on. Also since most dealers may not have a gasket take care not to damage it...the bolts should be cleaned and blue loctite should be applied(small amount) so they won't become loose, also tighten to torque setting in manual and stagger upon tightening.

Work Shop Manual:
http://www.luxturn.de/community/down...hp?id=4&s=info

Here another owner finds he has no screen so this is another good reason to remove the case:


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Old 06-08-2006, 08:20 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
Another thing I am not sure I mentioned is the oil pump must be lined up when you replace the case.
Huh?
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:36 AM   #40
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Sorry for lack of clarity, when you remove the case the oil Shaft can fall out or move off alignment with the drive shaft slot. It should be clear to you when you remove the case...
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:42 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
Sorry for lack of clarity, when you remove the case the oil Shaft can fall out or move off alignment with the drive shaft slot. It should be clear to you when you remove the case...
OK, now I'm worried. I've had that cover off twice & haven't noticed an oil shaft. Is it shown in the pic at the beginning of this thread?
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Old 06-08-2006, 12:08 PM   #42
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No the pic doesn't show the shaft but you would have known if there was a problem. If you look at the end of the drive shaft there is a slot, that slot is for the oil pump shaft as it fits in the slot. As long as you removed the case and didn't move it around a bunch or turn it over your probably fine. When you tighten the nut however you may turn the shaft and so align the two when replacing the case.
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Old 06-08-2006, 09:39 PM   #43
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alignment

If it isn't lined up the case will clearly not seat on the front end where the oil pump drive is. It is very obvious and easy to set, case will snap into place against the other sealing surface when correct. Good point to bring up Dan, Jim.
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:13 PM   #44
Chadleys1
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My Parts Are Here !

My parts arrived in Austin today, 28 days after I ordered them. I have no time to be mad about that- wayyyyy too pumped to be putting the TE back on the trails!!!!!!!!! I have learned a little about Husky parts aquisition, also, and doubt I will have that much trouble, again.

I will put her back together in the morning and do my damndest, in the next week or so, to do something worthy of posting pictures.

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Old 06-16-2006, 05:28 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadleys1
My parts arrived in Austin today, 28 days after I ordered them.
Owwww!
Now show us some Texas dual sportin'!
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