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Old 03-14-2007, 04:13 PM   #46
CMWoody
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Just checked mine. Thanks for the heads up on this...I know its been a while.

My nut was loose but no apparent damage to the key...only 380 miles. pathetic...I know
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Old 03-14-2007, 05:32 PM   #47
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Well I'm glad someone else drug this thread outta the closet so I won't be that damn noob dustin' off old posts. But noob I am and I've got some questions about this Husky nut thing. And the reason I'm asking it here is that every reference I could find about this prob including over at TT, SMJ and (most) of the infamous mega-thread at Speedzilla...all link it to this thread here at Advrider.

I got my '06 late last year and with winter and all I've only put 1k or so miles on it. I had heard about this dreaded vibration symptom on the early '06's and thought I was in the clear, that was until today however.

I got just a mile down the road and it started, so I brought it back to the garage and pulled the right side case off. Now here's my question; there is a locking/folding washer on this damn nut so how could it get loose to begin with. That plus it's still lined up with a paint mark from the factory. If it was never tightened to begin with (and the folding washer was installed over a loose nut), then why has the bike been OK up til now?

I've not taken off the locking washer yet because I'm waiting to go buy a 38mm socket and some hi-temp Lok-tite, so I really don't even know yet if this is the culprit but I'm assuming it has to be.

Can you "more experienced" Husky guys give this new SM610 owner some clarity....please.
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Old 03-14-2007, 05:43 PM   #48
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I have read that using Loctite inside the engine might not be a good idea...you should check into that, flatten the bent washer to remove the nut so you can remove the woodruff key. Call Dan at Motoxotica to order a new key. I think he stocks them http://www.motoxotica.com/
You want to make sure all pieces of the key are retrieved and go ahead and clean the bag screen since you have the case off. Soft metal can be used between gears to allow you to torque the nut to spec...any other questions just ask...

Dan
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:36 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
...any other questions just ask..
Yeah...the one I asked above. Plus, where's this "bag" screen? Thanks

Goose screwed with this post 03-14-2007 at 07:46 PM
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:19 PM   #50
drrags
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I'm good, but no penny

I'm sitting around this morning, all dry and comfortable, reading this thread. The further I read, the more paranoid I get. I only have 130 miles on my new bike, maybe I can just wait for the symptoms? Nah... So I drag my a$$ into the garage and do the check - it's torqued to spec, yay! The whole operation took less than an hour.

I don't recommend using a penny to jam the gears though
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:01 PM   #51
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Duxsoup, I don't know enough about the counterbalancer to comment on that.

As for the bag filters, there's two: one under the right side case cover, looks like this:


The other is on the left side, under its own dedicated cover (the quarter sized silver cover). It has two filters nested inside of each other- mine looked like this on the first oil change- excess sealant crap that could have blocked an oil passage on a bad day... clean 'em out.

cydobomb screwed with this post 03-16-2007 at 05:13 PM
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags
I'm sitting around this morning, all dry and comfortable, reading this thread. The further I read, the more paranoid I get. I only have 130 miles on my new bike, maybe I can just wait for the symptoms? Nah... So I drag my a$$ into the garage and do the check - it's torqued to spec, yay! The whole operation took less than an hour.

I don't recommend using a penny to jam the gears though
What did you end up using to hold the gears?
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Old 03-16-2007, 02:38 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonymorr
What did you end up using to hold the gears?

Penny worked for me, looked the same...I guess it could get expensive after a while.
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:11 PM   #54
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Ok, I got a socket to fit and checked the nut...it was tight. Instead of using a penny to jam the gears I put another ratchet on the flywheel side and let it spin til it hit the left footpeg, once it wedges there you can crank away on the PD nut.

Since mine was tight I must have another issue going on to cause the vibration, I'm checking all the motor mount bolts tonight.

At least now I can ride with confidence regarding the PD nut torque. Thanks for all the replies and your pictures were very helpful cydobomb.
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:46 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duxsoup
Ok, I got a socket to fit and checked the nut...it was tight. Instead of using a penny to jam the gears I put another ratchet on the flywheel side and let it spin til it hit the left footpeg, once it wedges there you can crank away on the PD nut.

Since mine was tight I must have another issue going on to cause the vibration, I'm checking all the motor mount bolts tonight.

At least now I can ride with confidence regarding the PD nut torque. Thanks for all the replies and your pictures were very helpful cydobomb.
If you got the rumble strip vibration the key is sheared and you need to remove the nut and replace the key.
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:29 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
If you got the rumble strip vibration the key is sheared and you need to remove the nut and replace the key.

Thanks Dan but it was more a constant buzz that I felt in the pegs, not an on/off vibration...still looking for the cause. With the PD nut off now I can look into the gear's keyway and see the woodruf key intact. I suppose I should pull the clutch basket and then the PD shaft gear to inspect the woodruf key. Then I'll torque 'er back down and be good to go.
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Old 03-16-2007, 07:22 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duxsoup
Thanks Dan but it was more a constant buzz that I felt in the pegs, not an on/off vibration...still looking for the cause. With the PD nut off now I can look into the gear's keyway and see the woodruf key intact. I suppose I should pull the clutch basket and then the PD shaft gear to inspect the woodruf key. Then I'll torque 'er back down and be good to go.
My dealers Mechanic checked the Woodruff Key on the Clutch side as well...
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Old 04-18-2007, 10:40 PM   #58
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Is the nut 38mm or 24mm?
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:27 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuyEd
Is the nut 38mm or 24mm?
38mm. A 1 1/2" socket seems to fit well...
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:47 PM   #60
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Judging by the way this thread has died, I think this may not be as crucial a check anymore.. I'm going to do it at my first oilchange, my bike has yet to be even run.
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