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Old 01-11-2008, 07:27 PM   #76
rockchucker22
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I could see myself doing something like that!
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:09 AM   #77
edeslaur
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Since all pennies are not created equal, be sure to destroy a "valuable" one (I like saving old coins, so I'm not really kidding)...

The ones post 1982 are zinc and, I'm sure, crush much more easily. I believe the 1982 and older pennies are worth more as scrap copper than as $$

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cent_(United_States_coin)

I see I'll be checking mine later. Anyone have a guide to doing so? Do I need a new gasket set?
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:15 AM   #78
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Yeah, and ya know... I knew that, but it just didn't surface from my subconcious to my concious level.

I had actually photographed the entire procedure thinking that I would post it here, but as you can see, I'm only halfway there.

If you remove the cover carefully, you can separate the gasket easily. Just be careful around the locating dowels.

Quote:
Originally Posted by edeslaur
Since all pennies are not created equal, be sure to destroy a "valuable" one (I like saving old coins, so I'm not really kidding)...

The ones post 1982 are zinc and, I'm sure, crush much more easily. I believe the 1982 and older pennies are worth more as scrap copper than as $$

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cent_(United_States_coin)

I see I'll be checking mine later. Anyone have a guide to doing so? Do I need a new gasket set?
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:28 AM   #79
drrags
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The Cost of Stupidity

I've got the gear on special order - $134 mistake. And you know what? I'm not even going to replace the screwdriver.
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:35 AM   #80
edeslaur
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Given damage possibilities, I always use Craftsman screwdrivers when I need an interim pry bar or chisel... Well and that I own only Craftsman (and buy at least a kit a year since my Phillips seem to have legs)
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:57 AM   #81
drrags
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The saga continues with the arrival of the new 32-tooth gear to replace the one that I so heavily-handedly busted. It only took about a week to get it.


So let's start back at the beginning.
1st, drain the oil. If you just open the cover, especially if you're used to dry-sump bikes, you will be surprised at the amount of oil that will spill onto the garage floor - enough to make the Arabs jump for joy.



Remove the two bolts that hold the rear brake cylinder and cover and the brake lever pivot bolt. Just swing them out of the way.



Remove the 8mm bolts that hold the case cover. See where I've removed the bolts already? Notice that you do not need to remove the oil filter cover bolts or the oil pump bolts.



Carefully wiggle the case cover off. You may have to loosen it up a bit with a rubber mallet first. The gaskets are reusable so be careful not to tear it. Half of the gasket will probably want to stick to the case and the other half to the cover. The cover has two locating dowels so my preference is to separate the gasket from the case and leave it on the case cover.



Peel back the locking washer.


You are on your own in figuring out how to lock the gears so you can loosen or tighten the 1-1/2" nut. An air wrench is best, but if you don't have one, just jam up the gears. Putting it in 6th gear and standing on the brake wasn't enough for me.



If you know your gear hasn't slipped and everything is fine, tighten the nut (73.8 ft/lb - 100Nm, or if you don't have a torque wrench that will go that high, just tighten the shit out of it), but if you want to check, or you have the symptoms of a slipped gear already, go ahead and remove the nut and the washer.
Remove the 6 clutch hub retaining bolts evenly. By the end of the bolt travel the plate is no longer under spring pressure, so no worries about things shooting out at your eye or anything.



Remove the clutch cover, throwout bearing, and pushrod ball.







Bend back the tab on the locking washer for the inner clutch hub and unbolt it.



Now you can remove the clutch innards.



Slide out the inner clutch hub. In this picture you can see 6 springs that go around the circumference of the outer clutch hub. For those that are concerned that there is no cush drive on these bikes, well... you're looking at it.



Now that you have the clutch assembly off, you can now get to the primary drive gears. You do not need a gear puller to remove these gears, and even if you had one there's no place to place the claws. So, with some kind of hook device, gently pry the gears off the shaft, working your way around the circumference.




It is at this point that you can inspect and/or replace the woodruff key (sorry about the crappy picture).



Ok now, so at this point assembly is the reverse of the disassembly. Line up the timing marks like in the first photo in this thread.

For those that never took Physics 201, understand that the woodruff key doesn't bear the load of the gear, but rather it is just a locater for the timing. It is the pressure that tightening the nut bears down on the gears to the shaft that creates friction that keeps the gears from spinning around the shaft. Just like you can slide your hand across your desk to wipe off some dust, you'll notice that as you increase downward pressure on your hand, it gets harder and hard to slide your hand. With enough downward pressure, you will reach a point to where you can't slide your hand at all. That's what's going on here, and why not having the nut torqued down enough causes the gear to spin and take out the woodruff key. So, the point behind this little paragraph is that I recommend that you clean and dry the primary and counterbalancer gear and shaft of all oil before you reassemble it.

Finally, try to line up the oil pump slot (in the cover) with the oil pump drive shaft before you bolt on the cover. If you don't get it, don't sweat it, just snug down the left side of the cover to the cases then push the bike forward or backward (while in gear) until you hear it plonk into place. Then go ahead and finish bolting the cover back on. Remember, if you have to force something, something is wrong. Take your time and figure it out.

That's all I can think of. Hope this helps someone.
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Old 01-26-2008, 01:29 PM   #82
buffallodan OP
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Very Nice Job Drrags,
Thanks for taking the time to document this.

Dan

p.s. Just recalled this bit...
My mechanic removed the clutch to get at the counterbalancer shaft. No one has reported issues with the woodruff key but when you change out clutch plates or if you are in there for other reason it might not hurt to check it...

buffallodan screwed with this post 01-26-2008 at 01:52 PM
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Old 01-27-2008, 09:25 PM   #83
Hoder
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122 bucks for a friggin' gear?
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:11 AM   #84
WIthumper
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Has this been and issue on the 07 models?
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:35 AM   #85
ThatGuyEd
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Read the entire thread before posting questions.


There have been no reports of any 07's having loose counter-balancer nuts.
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:32 PM   #86
Owen J
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Am I right in thinking that the counterbalancer shaft nut is 38mm across flats and the primary drive gear shaft nut is 24mm A/F?

I'm hoping to check both and don't want to have to mess about buying sockets with the cover off..................
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:08 PM   #87
Boon Booni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags
So, the point behind this little paragraph is that I recommend that you clean and dry the primary and counterbalancer gear and shaft of all oil before you reassemble it.

Might also explain why people who just tightened the loose nut might have it come loose later. Oil contamination of the mating surfaces.
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:10 PM   #88
Reddog*
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Thanks for the pics and write up.
I checked my 08, because I use the throttle pretty hard in the sand. And John-610 had a failure on his 08.
Everthing checked out okay. But the nut seemed loose to how much it went past the old mark on tighening. I just used a impact, so not torqued to a setting. My quess is it is now closer to 90 Ft#'s on mine.

Good to go.
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Old 07-27-2008, 11:17 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddog*
Thanks for the pics and write up.
I checked my 08, because I use the throttle pretty hard in the sand. And John-610 had a failure on his 08.
Everthing checked out okay. But the nut seemed loose to how much it went past the old mark on tighening. I just used a impact, so not torqued to a setting. My quess is it is now closer to 90 Ft#'s on mine.

Good to go.
Fellas just got my bike back after 3 weeks of down time due to this sucker. Test ride was successful.
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Old 07-27-2008, 04:05 PM   #90
Xfool
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I was in Cycle Gear last weekend and came across this:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/..._locking_tool/

A gear jamming tool, Amazing..... Guess you don't have to use Penney's and screwdrivers.
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