Urgent Reading for Husky Owners TE-SM - 610's

[drrags]

Yup, I wish I had one of these. I will the next time though! Thanks!

[Xfool]

drrags: Thanks for the blow-by-blow coverage. That will come in handy.

[Jiveturkey]

I am having some issues with my 08 as well. The nut was loose I tightened it and all the bottom end noise went away but now I have a full time vibe.. I figure the woodruff key is broke and will check it tomorrow. Anyway the reason I am posting is because of how hard it is to torgue the nut without jamming the gears. It finally came to me after about 2 hours of getting really pissed off ad not getting past 50 Ftlbs. Put the bike in 6th gear not 1st and have a friend push on the rear break. The leverage actually works backwards for this application!! you can torque way past 75 ftlbs if you want. Hope this helps. Oh and don't put anything in the gears. :)

Later, Eric

[Svart]

Mayor thanks to Mr. Drrags for time and effort!
I´ll check the nut on my -07 at my next oil change.

Anyone having had issues from overtightening the nut? I have nothing to measure the torque with but I could always go out and buy one.
Won´t carry it with me on the bike though :)

I think it was Hoder that tightened with his foot so he could loosen it with his foot. Not a bad idea!

[Ruffus]

Originally Posted by Svart

Mayor thanks to Mr. Drrags for time and effort!
I´ll check the nut on my -07 at my next oil change.

Anyone having had issues from overtightening the nut? I have nothing to measure the torque with but I could always go out and buy one.
Won´t carry it with me on the bike though :)

I think it was Hoder that tightened with his foot so he could loosen it with his foot. Not a bad idea!

Are you talking about the prime drive nut, or the rear axle nut? If I remember correctly, the foot part was about the rear axle nut

[alpiv]

I've been following this and the 690 issues pretty closely.

Has anyone brought this to Husky's attention?

Can we do a poll to see how many have had this issue?

I'm in the market and with the price of the Husky the the fuel capacity, It's one of the first on the list for new bike purchases..

Many thanks.

[Hoder]

Originally Posted by Svart

I think it was Hoder that tightened with his foot so he could loosen it with his foot. Not a bad idea!

Yes that was the rear axle nut. For the counterbalancer nut I used a torque wrench.

[Xfool]

From the “sudden vibration” thread.

The index marks on the balancer drive gears aren’t line up. I have seen this referenced elsewhere with speculations of the engine having jumped a tooth. Buffallodan references the pic below as a “factory corrected counterbalance alignment”.

[Xfool]

Mine is the same way.

[Xfool]

The factory guys kind-of scratched out the original timing dot and moved it over a tooth. So....... be careful taking these things apart or you may never get it back together the way it was originally assembled.

The primary drive nut torque isn’t listed in the shop manual. From buffallodan’s post the recommended torque is 73.5 ft-lb. On a good day the engine might make 38 lbs torque. Considering the multiplier of the shaft threads torquing the nut to 73.5 ft-lb should be plenty to hold against the 38 lbs torque of the engine.

On my bike the nut was tight and after re-torquing it wound up to be in exactly the original position.

[Svart]

Originally Posted by Hoder

Yes that was the rear axle nut. For the counterbalancer nut I used a torque wrench.

Oops, my bad. I tighten the rear axle nut by hand, or by foot if using the short stock wrench that came with the bike.

I´ll go get a torque wrench for the CB nut then. Thanks!

[chopt]

I know this thread is old but, I'd like to revive it for us that are recently purchasing the 06's like myself.

I recently purchased an 06 SM610 with 3200 miles on the ticker and got the infamous vibration. Thanks to this forum it eliminated hours of diagnosing. I own a several other bikes and are a user on their forums also. I hope I can contribute to the vast amount of knowledge and expreince I know this forum has to offer me.

The following post is just to elaborate on drrags and buffaldon very informative and very, very helpful thread.

This is my story/experience:
As you can see from buff's pic in his first post in this thread he has clearly pointed out all of the culprits

Where I got confused was when I pulled the cover off the counter balance gear mark was lined up with the gear mark on the crankshaft and the crankshaft nut was tight with the washer still bent over it. I THOUGHT to myself this isn't the prob. I pulled everything apart since I was in there and the key did sheer, the only part that sheered was under the cranshaft gear(red arrow) driving the CB gear(green arrow) the key under the smaller gear driving the clutch basket was still in tact and in it's place. The key is universal and can be found at your local hardware or NAPA.

This post was to tell other users when you open the cover and everything looks ok, tear it apart it really isn't.

[Howard70]

Hello:

I'm starting in to check these various torques & keys on my 2008. However, I'm confused about the proper torque for the nut on the layshaft (as the shop manual calls the shaft with the counterbalance). This would be the nut identified by the green arrow above. The 2008 shop manual specifies a torque of only 7.1 NM (5.2 ft/lbs) on page H.18 for that 27 mm nut. That seems awful light to me. The other torques specified seem inline with what has been reported here - 74 ft/lbs for the crankshaft nut and 45.5 ft/bs for the nut on the primary shaft holding the clutch disc housing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Howard Snell

[drrags]

It looks like there's a conversion error in the manual. My shop manual shows 70Nm but 5.2 ft/lb. It should be 52 ft/lb.

[04asphalt]

how many 08 TE 610 owners had this issue?