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Old 02-26-2011, 06:14 AM   #1996
Ink
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Hey Woody, what would you expect TIR to be side to side on a R1200GSA rear wheel? After zeroing I have runout to .035 and have another bump to .045. I didn't bother to measure the how egg shaped the wheel was, doh, when I had the chance, but it isn't looking good either. I would expect the factory isn't near .005 - .010, but .045 seems excessive. What say you?
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Old 02-26-2011, 07:46 AM   #1997
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update on caponord rim project,,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_han View Post
hey woody,

any updates on my rim set?

email me!
thanks thanks..
will do,,, but in the meantime,,,after straightening,welding the obvious damage we drilled/countersunk the holes for your application sent the wheels to the anodizer for stripping

the beauty of this process it reveals any flaws in your rim..so when we got em back we found the rear rim had a slight crack at the butt weld,,,the front rim revealed that all th eprevious welding was contaminated and had tint holes all over ,,this is caused by the previous welder did not remove the anodizing everywhere around the welded area..[we clean everything within half inch/14mm of weld area]

so it's back to blending everything....actually it was mainly the 4-5'' original crack repair,,,

IMHO i think we should media blast the rims and that will create a textured satin fiat black finish,,if we were to polish it then alll the welded areas would show up more readily...because of the different welding alloys...the other solution is to powdercoat them the color you want

OBTW,,i took pics and unfortunately do not know how to download them,,you asked for pic of what they may look like,,kinda like this but with black hubs







woody
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:17 AM   #1998
nat_han
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thanks for the update.

emailed you.
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Old 02-26-2011, 08:49 AM   #1999
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TIR for BMW Xlaced wheel....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ink View Post
Hey Woody, what would you expect TIR to be side to side on a R1200GSA rear wheel? After zeroing I have runout to .035 and have another bump to .045. I didn't bother to measure the how egg shaped the wheel was, doh, when I had the chance, but it isn't looking good either. I would expect the factory isn't near .005 - .010, but .045 seems excessive. What say you?

ok ,,once again..
before we start,,,all measuring must be done from the inside of the rims bead area,,,you will get erroneous readings when using the outside of the rim....you can of course use it as rough guesstimate of what is going on,,but then again so will your tire

by TIR i assume you mean ''total inside run-out'',,,,,if that is the case then BMW uses the same system and allows .060''/1.5mm lateral and vertical for those wheels with the caveat that 60 degrees to the left and right of the weld area[it's opposite the valve stem visible by the big divots in the beads] is off limits to measurement...that's 120 degrees or 1/3 of your wheel off limits...

FYI,,that is the litmus test your wheel has to pass before they will warranty it,,,experience has shown that the replacement wheels are often more out of round then what you are trading in

the pickle with using TIR is that it does not take a nominal reading,,BWOE your wheel could be running true 3/4 of the circumference and have a .035-060'' blip in some direction,,,you will notice that by either a hop or wiggle/wobble especially with more street oriented tires...
we do not subscribe to those standards at all,,,we always strive for +/- .015'' max or less,,,
FYI,,,we are routinely getting the rims to +/-.005-010'' in any direction,,,and routinely repair any divots over .030''deep[[the worst one e encountered was .080""/2mm deep over a 4inch arc
.AND we measure the entire circumference!!!

you know,,, your eyes will tell ya if something is cuckoo...just spin your wheels !!!! if they are dancing in an orbit ,,well your tire will do the same,,,,it manifests itself as vibration in the handlebars and /or wallowing and/or hopping through corners/sweepers.

BWOE,,,the difference between a +/- .030''=.060'' nominal reading versus just saying .060''TIR is the former is specific,,you are assured that the rim is not deviating more than .030'' from centerline,,the latter could be that if you are lucky and more often then not we find them lacking...
so,,,,visually the ''nominal'' measuring method will yield a wheel that shimmers/dances when being spun,,versus a wheel that looks like it is an orbit or hops and/or wobbles

i'll see if i can get a video demonstrating the difference
here's a typical oem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-53Ug...layer_embedded

holler if this doesn't make sense,,,

woody

WOW,,,WWW has just hit 2,000 replies!!!,,,in the
''ask woody about your wheels thread''.
...
thanks for your trust, business and support over the years....
woody
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woody's wheel works screwed with this post 02-28-2011 at 07:29 AM
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:29 AM   #2000
ktmr32
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ktm adv 950 wheels

hi there i already have the rims from the caponord but i want to lace them up in my hubs so as i have already read in previous threads is that i need modified rear hub, niples and spokes and i will lace them here in my country accordingly to your advise so pls could you give me a price on those parts do i need something else to perform this convertion?

thanks
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:55 AM   #2001
Reverse
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Woody:

I have a R1200 GSA rear wheel with 40,000 miles on it. Was never a problem until I noticed yesterday it was far out of true (as much as or maybe a little more than the youtube video you shared in the previous post). I had mounted a new tire abt 500 miles ago.

I mount my own tires, and have never had problems before. I support the rim carefully when removing and mounting tires. Could the simple act of mounting a tire cause this? Also, it took a while for the bead to seat, could that have warped the rim?

The rim will probably be heading your way Tuesday, for now I'd just like to get an idea of what could have caused it, so I can prevent future warping.

Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:52 PM   #2002
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good luck on do it your-self CapoNord X-lace and true.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmr32 View Post
hi there i already have the rims from the caponord but i want to lace them up in my hubs so as i have already read in previous threads is that i need modified rear hub, niples and spokes and i will lace them here in my country accordingly to your advise so pls could you give me a price on those parts do i need something else to perform this convertion?

thanks
1,,i need to know on what bike you plan on mounting these rims????

2,,the special heavy duty ss spoke and nipple kit=$200ea

3,,you will need a lot of patience,,,concentration,,,technical understanding and skill and even more luck,,it is the most difficult of all the x-laced tubeless wheels we build,,,hence the $200 X-lace and true charge,,,

4,,the hub and the rims need extensive modification for the spokes to fit and go where they need to...

5,,my 'advise' is to think this over very care-fully,,,before you attempt this,,,so far everyone [3 customers] that we sent a kit to has returned them for assembly,,,we can tell from all the scratches and gouges in the beautifully prepared rims that someone did not have an easy or fun time...FYI it cost almost $500 to repair the damages and the extra S&H

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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:08 PM   #2003
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what caused my GS X-laced wheel to go out of true???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverse View Post
Woody:

I have a R1200 GSA rear wheel with 40,000 miles on it. Was never a problem until I noticed yesterday it was far out of true (as much as or maybe a little more than the youtube video you shared in the previous post). I had mounted a new tire abt 500 miles ago.

I mount my own tires, and have never had problems before. I support the rim carefully when removing and mounting tires. Could the simple act of mounting a tire cause this? it could but i doubt it,,especially if you do it by hand,,,the old style tire changing machines that held the wheel by the hub were notorious for bending the wheels ,,,usually by sloppy bead breaker application,

Also, it took a while for the bead to seat, could that have warped the rim?again i doubt that too,,,next time use a slipperier tire mounting compound ,,like Murphys tire mount lube used for truck tire mounting...it's water soluble and slick

The rim will probably be heading your way Tuesday, for now I'd just like to get an idea of what could have caused it, so I can prevent future warping.my take is that your wheel has finally seated in and you have a bunch of loose spokes,,, i bet if you put your bike on the centersatnd and get a lil wrench or screwdriver and tap the spokes you will find that they will not have an even high pitched ring to them.

again it is more important that all 10 spokes going either CW or CCW on both sides sound the same,,,that way the opposing forces are equal

...which is what keeps these rims true...

IMHO,,the biggest factor in keeping the rims true is properly seating and truing them to begin with...
Thanks.
holler
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:41 AM   #2004
ktmr32
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wheels ktm 950 adv

so how much u want if i am going to sent you the rims and my front hub to you? including postage to Greece

thanks
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:04 AM   #2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmr32 View Post
so how much u want if i am going to sent you the rims and my front hub to you? including postage to Greece

thanks
are you sending front and rear hub??

what is the year and model of your motorcycle???

the spoke kits are $200ea
superlace X-lace wheel/caponord=$200ea

S&H circa $120-150
w
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....Wanna e-mail us... woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
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toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:11 AM   #2006
ktmr32
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ktm wheels

yeah i will sent both hubs, my motorcycle is ktm 950 adv 2004,so how much in total if i will sent you both capo rims and hubs to you plus i need them to be anodised in black and shipment back to Greece

thks
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:31 AM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmr32 View Post
yeah i will sent both hubs, my motorcycle is ktm 950 adv 2004,so how much in total if i will sent you both capo rims and hubs to you plus i need them to be anodised in black and shipment back to Greece

thks
like i said in the previous post:

the spoke kits are $200ea=$400
superlace X-lace wheel/caponord@$200ea=$400

strip and re-anodize rims in satin black is $75ea=$150
or
if you want shiny/gloss black anodize is $100ea=$200
so
subtotal=$950 for satin black or $1k for glossy black rims
plus
S&H circa $120-150
w

PS,,,i do not know if you also want the hubs black??? if you do,,,IMHO just re-painting them is a good choice,,,circa $50 for both...FYI,,,anodizing the oem casting doesn't look nice and powdercoating them will run circa $170 for both hubs to R&R all the bearings/media blast them bare/powdercoat your color...we will repack your bearings with waterproof grease as afreebie ie No charge...
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......Wanna talk,,,call us
toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

woody's wheel works screwed with this post 02-28-2011 at 01:22 PM
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:00 AM   #2008
Laconic
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Hey guys, I started getting my FJR wheel ready to ship and ran into a little "problem" with the brake rotor screws.

Do you keep those screws in stock? If so, maybe I'll get you to send me a set back with the repaired wheel.

Rick
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:41 AM   #2009
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removing disc bolts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 257bob View Post
Hey guys, I started getting my FJR wheel ready to ship and ran into a little "problem" with the brake rotor screws.

Do you keep those screws in stock? If so, maybe I'll get you to send me a set back with the repaired wheel.

Rick
no problem,,send a sample,,,did you strip or snap it off???
many times they are loctited with ''stud n bearing mount''/loctite red,,,these have to be heated up,,we use a pencil/crack-pipe propane lighter,,,pin-point accuracy,,,and voila!!! the bolts back out easy

w
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....Wanna e-mail us... woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
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toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:00 AM   #2010
Laconic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
no problem,,send a sample,,,did you strip or snap it off???
many times they are loctited with ''stud n bearing mount''/loctite red,,,these have to be heated up,,we use a pencil/crack-pipe propane lighter,,,pin-point accuracy,,,and voila!!! the bolts back out easy

w
Ruined the wrenching surface, they seem softer than one would like...

I tried heating a couple of them without making much difference. The one I have out so far has blue locktite on it. The problem is the hex button head screw with minimal tool engagement depth. A torx would work better.

I'm going to take the impact screwdriver home with me tonight and I think I'll get one of those pinpoint torches like you mentioned.
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