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Old 07-11-2012, 04:07 PM   #2521
kaia
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balancing suggestions?

hey woody!

i was fortunate enough to purchase a '07 KTM 990S recently from another inmate, which already had a set of your superlaced wheels. today, i put a new tire on the wheel after the tire that was on it when i bought it wore in an unexpected manner. i felt like i had a pogo stick on my front wheel.


this is how it looked in the "middle", 90 degrees from here in either direction it was either way worse, or a bit better. the "worse" side had almost flat center knobs, with the double knobs in between sheared or worn completely off.


i had a local shop mount the wheel, but when they went to balance it, they said they couldn't add weights to balance it because of the curve of the wheel, and the fact that the spokes are too big to add spoke weights. they even tried spinning and flipping the tire to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. after trying everything, it is currently off by 4.00 ounces.

any suggestions on the best way to balancing this specific wheel? it appears to be a 21" Takasago A90 Excel Wheel, superlaced with the supersize spokes.



it's also got a rimlock mounted near the valve.



the new tire that was mounted is a Heidenau K60 Scout 90/90 21.

thanks in advance!
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kaia screwed with this post 07-11-2012 at 04:14 PM
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:49 PM   #2522
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problems balancing wheel,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaia View Post
hey woody!

i was fortunate enough to purchase a '07 KTM 990S recently from another inmate, which already had a set of your superlaced wheels. today, i put a new tire on the wheel after the tire that was on it when i bought it wore in an unexpected manner. i felt like i had a pogo stick on my front wheel.


this is how it looked in the "middle", 90 degrees from here in either direction it was either way worse, or a bit better. the "worse" side had almost flat center knobs, with the double knobs in between sheared or worn completely off.


i had a local shop mount the wheel, but when they went to balance it, they said they couldn't add weights to balance it because of the curve of the wheel, and the fact that the spokes are too big to add spoke weights. they even tried spinning and flipping the tire to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. after trying everything, it is currently off by 4.00 ounces.

any suggestions on the best way to balancing this specific wheel? it appears to be a 21" Takasago A90 Excel Wheel, superlaced with the supersize spokes.



it's also got a rimlock mounted near the valve.



the new tire that was mounted is a Heidenau K60 Scout 90/90 21.

thanks in advance!
what it looks like from Saigon,,,is that your tire suffered from the unbalanced single rim lock blues,,made worse by mounting the rim-lock next to the valve-stem thus compounding how much weight is concentrated in one area of your wheel,,,

if you would have paid attention before removing the old tire,,you would have noticed that the flattest most worn section was in the vicinity of the rim-lock location,,,that the odds were that the previous owner didn-'t balance that tire and obviously rode at a pretty good clip on the slab.,,sooo high speed,,unbalanced tires= the damage caused/effects seen on that tire...FYI.having a rim way out of true longtitudinally/up-down would create similar effects

my memory tells me the A-60 comes with three holes,,,valve stem plus two rim-locks

if you run only one rim lock mount it 180 degrees from. the valve stem,,,,you will want to plug the unused hole with one of our new trick alloy rim-lock plugs,,,,call shop for details

i always advocate 2 rim locks on the big iron,,,that way the rim-locks counter-balance. each other,,requiring waaay less lead to balance your wheel...

FYI,,,we use tape a weights and mount them sideways,,even pre-bend em to fit the rim profile

hope that get's ya down the road with less dis-comfort and tire wear to boot

woody
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woody's wheel works screwed with this post 07-11-2012 at 11:44 PM
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:42 AM   #2523
kaia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
what it looks like from Saigon,,,is that your tire suffered from the unbalanced single rim lock blues,,made worse by mounting the rim-lock next to the valve-stem thus compounding how much weight is concentrated in one area of your wheel,,,

if you would have paid attention before removing the old tire,,you would have noticed that the flattest most worn section was in the vicinity of the rim-lock location,,,that the odds were that the previous owner didn-'t balance that tire and obviously rode at a pretty good clip on the slab.,,sooo high speed,,unbalanced tires= the damage caused/effects seen on that tire...FYI.having a rim way out of true longtitudinally/up-down would create similar effects

my memory tells me the A-60 comes with three holes,,,valve stem plus two rim-locks

if you run only one rim lock mount it 180 degrees from. the valve stem,,,,you will want to plug the unused hole with one of our new trick alloy rim-lock plugs,,,,call shop for details

i always advocate 2 rim locks on the big iron,,,that way the rim-locks counter-balance. each other,,requiring waaay less lead to balance your wheel...

FYI,,,we use tape a weights and mount them sideways,,even pre-bend em to fit the rim profile

hope that get's ya down the road with less dis-comfort and tire wear to boot

woody
thanks for the reply woody!

based on your advice i'll either move the existing lock to the other side, and / or mount a second and hopefully they'll balance themselves out.

i'll be calling tomorrow for the plugs!
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:03 AM   #2524
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No question, just a statement.... (unpaid advertisement)

Woodyswheelworks rock

They supplied the whole kit foe the strom.... 18" rear and 21" front on rad hubs... Looks the goods and does, the job,

The stock strom rims bent on a small pothole 60klms on the dirt and blew the tyre off the rim

In two short rides I have bottomed out the suspension a few times without a dent.

Yes the rims take the bike past it's operational capacity but I hate euro bikes





Thanks foe the quality and service

Pete
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:00 AM   #2525
olec
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Rim selection, '11 Adv R

Hi Woody,

I will keep stock wheel for cruising, 2up and 'transport', but have to find something for the Dakar 'wannabie' riding.
Enemies are fist to double size rocks lurking around corners with minimal time to avoid. Add some smaller washouts where lifting the front is the only options. Abandonen gravel roads and older two tracks plus some easier single tracks.

I cannot decide between 1.60 or 1.85 for the front. Same for read. Will the 2.50 rear work?
I really want to be able to order tires in the 80/100 size for front to widen the range. For the rear I hope I could use 140/80 or 120/100 tires. Even a 130/90 if it's possible. The speed in this Dakar mode is rarely above 80mph. I'd say most of the riding will be done in the 60-70 area.

I'm ready to pull the trigger but just want some advise before selecting the right sizes.

Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:44 AM   #2526
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Hello Woody, can a KTM rear rim be redrilled for a Cush hub? I'm pretty sure that's a yes, but are larger nipples needed? It's an excel 18 x 2.15. I'm assuming the rotor side is the same, and I'd need to buy new spokes for the Cush side.

Thanks, Trevor
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Old 07-14-2012, 05:34 PM   #2527
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Woody,
Please forgive my ignorance but I need some advice and/or help with a wheel problem and you sir, are the man.
I have an old harley I've been putting back together and when I got to the part where I went to put a rear tire on it, I found the rim and spokes in very poor shape. I'm looking to replace them. I'm not even sure of the year or model the wheel came from but it's not stock for this bike. I want good quality, chrome spokes and rim. Tire size is 130 and dia is 16".
Any advice on where to start?
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:56 PM   #2528
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rear rims on ktm ,,redrilling re-using on cush drive hubs????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Idle View Post
Hello Woody, can a KTM rear rim be redrilled for a Cush hub? I'm pretty sure that's a yes, but are larger nipples needed? It's an excel 18 x 2.15. I'm assuming the rotor side is the same, and I'd need to buy new spokes for the Cush side.

Thanks, Trevor
well that's a question that's been asked more than once,,,

the dilemna is ,we'd need to know which model ktm ya have,,,if my memory serves me correctly,,,there is an indexing difference plus the change in spoke hole diameter in cush drive hub

this necessitates re-angling and counter-sinking the spoke holes on the cush side of the rim,,, circa$30,,,you'll definitely need different spokes

call or e-mail Zach at the shop,,he'll set ya straight,,he knows this stuff and all your options like the back of hand,,,,tell him hi from Saigon

we can provide all these services


woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:06 PM   #2529
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spokes for a rusty ol harley,,,???

Quote:
Originally Posted by panhead_dan View Post
Woody,
Please forgive my ignorance but I need some advice and/or help with a wheel problem and you sir, are the man.
I have an old harley I've been putting back together and when I got to the part where I went to put a rear tire on it, I found the rim and spokes in very poor shape. I'm looking to replace them. I'm not even sure of the year or model the wheel came from but it's not stock for this bike. I want good quality, chrome spokes and rim. Tire size is 130 and dia is 16".
Any advice on where to start?
we have most everything ya need new n used,,,

your best bet is to send a pic of your wheel to our shop website listed below,,attention Zach

IMHO,,unless it's a show bike,,you'll be far happier with a polished set of ss spokes and nipples,,haven't nary replaced one in 40 years

most chrome spokes come from china these days,,are prone to breaking and rusting pre-maturely

hope that get's ya on a better track,,,OBTW,,,if ya send it in and want a a sound repaired wheel ,,we can give ya an analysis of what's up with the whole assy,,,and recommend better solutions within your budget and other criteria,,,

woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:15 PM   #2530
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optional wheel/rim sizes for ADV R ,hard-core off-road use???

Quote:
Originally Posted by olec View Post
Hi Woody,

I will keep stock wheel for cruising, 2up and 'transport', but have to find something for the Dakar 'wannabie' riding.
Enemies are fist to double size rocks lurking around corners with minimal time to avoid. Add some smaller washouts where lifting the front is the only options. Abandonen gravel roads and older two tracks plus some easier single tracks.

I cannot decide between 1.60 or 1.85 for the front. Same for read. Will the 2.50 rear work?
I really want to be able to order tires in the 80/100 size for front to widen the range. For the rear I hope I could use 140/80 or 120/100 tires. Even a 130/90 if it's possible. The speed in this Dakar mode is rarely above 80mph. I'd say most of the riding will be done in the 60-70 area.

I'm ready to pull the trigger but just want some advise before selecting the right sizes.

Thanks!
just reading,,about your needs i'll recommend the 1.85x21 front and 2.5x18rear superlaced to a set of the billet hubs i had RAD hubs we have in stock

i'd stick with the larger 90/90 front,,,extra rubber is your friend for the size bike ya have....IMHO opinion of course

having good suspension is another ally when riding hard off-road,,,


woodyii
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..For more info check our website...
www.woodyswheelworks.com
....Wanna e-mail us... woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
......Wanna talk,,,call us
toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:18 AM   #2531
olec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
just reading,,about your needs i'll recommend the 1.85x21 front and 2.5x18rear superlaced to a set of the billet hubs i had RAD hubs we have in stock

i'd stick with the larger 90/90 front,,,extra rubber is your friend for the size bike ya have....IMHO opinion of course

having good suspension is another ally when riding hard off-road,,,


woodyii
Ok, so 1.85 and 2.50 it'll be. I am previous customer when I had my SE, so it'll be good to see some of your products again.

Btw, I have a full 690 rear wheel in my garage with only 60 miles on it. How much work is it to make this fit the ADV? It's 2.50 and DID dirtstar rims. Maybe I must strengthen the spokes, but maybe it can serve as a third rear for some special use.
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:52 AM   #2532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olec View Post
Ok, so 1.85 and 2.50 it'll be. I am previous customer when I had my SE, so it'll be good to see some of your products again.

Btw, I have a full 690 rear wheel in my garage with only 60 miles on it. How much work is it to make this fit the ADV? It's 2.50 and DID dirtstar rims. Maybe I must strengthen the spokes, but maybe it can serve as a third rear for some special use.
the LC-4s have narrower rims and hubs than the LC-8 series,,,i assume ya have an LC-8 series bike,,,,,
FYI,,cush-drive hubs interchange with non cush drive hubs on all the single cylinder dirt bike series

you could send in the complete wheel and we could either transform it or use it as trade in for the proper wheel ya need ,,come to think of it,,,the LC-8 hub is so much wider we'd have a hard time re-angling/chanfering the spoke holes in the lateral direction

call Zach at the shop,,he'll know alot better what we have to work with,,,

woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:51 AM   #2533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
the LC-4s have narrower rims and hubs than the LC-8 series,,,i assume ya have an LC-8 series bike,,,,,
FYI,,cush-drive hubs interchange with non cush drive hubs on all the single cylinder dirt bike series

you could send in the complete wheel and we could either transform it or use it as trade in for the proper wheel ya need ,,come to think of it,,,the LC-8 hub is so much wider we'd have a hard time re-angling/chanfering the spoke holes in the lateral direction

call Zach at the shop,,he'll know alot better what we have to work with,,,

woody
Ok, I'll pick a late night and call him. I had the 690, sold it but kept one of the rears I had (stock with Cush-drive hub), waiting for the LC8 to arrive....
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Old 07-15-2012, 08:36 PM   #2534
kaia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works View Post
my memory tells me the A-60 comes with three holes,,,valve stem plus two rim-locks

i always advocate 2 rim locks on the big iron,,,that way the rim-locks counter-balance. each other,,requiring waaay less lead to balance your wheel...

woody
woody -

i was just looking at the A-60 on the bike, and it appears to only have two holes... unless I'm missing something. one used by the valve stem, and one used by the existing rim lock, about 3" away from the valve stem. there doesn't seem to be a third hole - do I need to drill the third hole? I've already ordered a pair of the motion-pro LiteLocks from my local Moto store, but without another hole in the rim 180 from the valve stem ( or from the current lock?) I'm not really sure how to proceed.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:36 PM   #2535
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where to put the extra rim-lock hole???

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaia View Post
woody -

i was just looking at the A-60 on the bike, and it appears to only have two holes... unless I'm missing something. one used by the valve stem, and one used by the existing rim lock, about 3" away from the valve stem. there doesn't seem to be a third hole - do I need to drill the third hole? I've already ordered a pair of the motion-pro LiteLocks from my local Moto store, but without another hole in the rim 180 from the valve stem ( or from the current lock?) I'm not really sure how to proceed.
ok,,good question,,,better answer

Rx=

1,, getting a 5/16th" or 8mm drill bit and drill

2,, look at where the current holes are drilled and the relationship to the spoke pattern,,you'll notice they are drilled in the "V",,,, this gives ya easier access to the nut for loosening/tightening,, all other spots are a pain in the ass to get your wrench and or air nozzle on ..

3,,,OK,,now locate the "V" as close to opposite of the existing holes,,,drill the hole from the drop center,,use a center punch if necessary to keep drill bit from wandering

FYI,,why do they drill em close together???,,,, makes tire changing easier/quicker....remember,,these rims are drilled for motocross bikes,,,where it's essentially a non issue at the sppeds aand/or the terrain they traverse,,,once ya hit the slab,,wheel trueness / concentricity/ balancing count as you have observed.

good luck from Saigon
woody
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......Wanna talk,,,call us
toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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