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Old 07-08-2006, 06:58 PM   #31
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we're working on this issue...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettster
Woody,
I have a set of BMW Cross Spoke wheels off my 1100GS that I want to send up to you for anodizing and respoking.
Any chance that you have an extra set laying around that you could fix the way I want and take mine in exchange?
If not, how long are we looking at for a turn around time?

Regards,
Vettster
my son chris and i are already scheming on having extra wheels...some with new,,and others with 're-conditioned' hubs,,,when we have the stuff unbuilt i have greater latitude to 'build as needed/on demand',,,the BMW stuff is just sooooo expensive to have lots laying around ...it's amazing what people want,,, for example: woody gimme,,,,

a new hub BUT get it powdercoated or polished or beadblasted...no i don't want a reconditioned hub ,,which would be much less expensive

use my old hub,,BUT use chrome or ss or MONZTER spokes and anodize/podercoat/polish my rim,,,

so right there ther are 20-30 combinations..

if you call in,,and tell us what you want we'll build em and try to get as close to what ya have to get a fair trade-in,,,when we get yours they'll get a fair inspection and analysis and we'll work out a win-win deal...so many GS wheels come in with bent rims,,,the dilemna is the x-lace pattern does an incredible job of masking the extent of the bends,,,so we HAVE to straighten em first,,,BECAUSE itis IMPOSSIBLE to do this wit traditional spoe tweaking/truing techniques...and that's where the crux of the problem lies
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Old 07-08-2006, 07:00 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beefjerky
how much to lace up some fancy colored rims to my f650? 17/21

How much to sell me the rims and spokes?

call my son chris,,,he's got the answers,,,sorry i'm in vermont getting my mom out of her re-hab center,,,w
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Old 07-08-2006, 07:17 PM   #33
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get these rims BUT add the cushdrive rear hub from LC-4 Supermoto

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenR
Hey Woody!

I've got an '03 640 Adventure that is just begging for black wheels. I spoke to Chris about the project several months ago but got sidetracked. I understand that the front wheel hub is considered under-sized (20mm I think) and that an aftermarket hub would beef things up, along with the Superlace job.

I want to stick with 18" rear 21" front and ride the bike 80% dirt/20% road and intend to ride it in offroad rally events. I'm using the Dunlop 908RR Rally Raid tires. What width wheels do you recommend?

Thanks for sharing your wisdom on this site!
i'd go for 1.85x21 and 2.50/2.75 x18rear,,,superlace it,,,and if ya want an inside tip,,,nows the time to convert your rear wheel assembly to the KTM cush drive set up!!!!!

doing a trick talon or RAD hub looks nifty and yes it's stronger,,BUT the KTM cush drive from their Supermoto kit was built for a reason...the cush drive eases loads on the entire drive-train!!!!!

since the big-bore 4 stroke evolution hit,,,we rebuild an inordinate number of wheels from broken blasted apart rear hubs ....NO manufacturer is exempt,,,,,have NEVER seen a broken cush drive ....the sprocket carrier and dampening cushions add circa $150,,the oem rear hub circa $215...about the same as a Talon

HEY ,,,does'nt your 640 Adventure already come with a cush drive ,,,well,,,everything i talked about holds true,,,'cept it's really addressed to the solid rear hub crowd,,,hey it's been a loooong day,,,woody
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Old 07-10-2006, 12:40 PM   #34
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Yep, the '03 already has a cush drive. So would you recommend going to a bigger front hub to beef things up, or is it overkill.

BTW, I will be ordering a supermoto wheel set from you shortly for a 450MXC and WILL want the cush drive for that bike.
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:22 AM   #35
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Rim width for sand

Hey Woddy & Chris,

Still haven't managed to as much as scratch the wheels I got from you last year, but I do have a question.

Before I high sided in the weekend and dislocated my shoulder I was riding sand with two ther 950's, both with standard '05 rims, while I am running the 1.85 up front and 2.5 rear....we are running a mix of tires but are all running 140/80 & 90/90's

I noticed everytime that I was immediately behind either of them that I seemed to need a little extra speed to stay in on top of the sand. All carrying similar fuel load and not hugely different in weight.

One of my fellow ADV riders has also ridden both my bike and the others and has commented mine seemed more inclined to carve the sand and wash out.

This got me to thinking.... when I ordered my bullet proof wheels for rocks etc, have I short changed myself in the sand area by having rolled my tioes into a rounder profile and hence less 'flat footed' for the sand?

If this is the case, simple, I get my stock wheels and bring them over for you to re rim with standard width, heavier duty rims klater in the year....but I am looking for imput on if this may be a contributing factor.
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Old 07-11-2006, 08:24 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
my son chris and i are already scheming on having extra wheels...some with new,,and others with 're-conditioned' hubs,,,when we have the stuff unbuilt i have greater latitude to 'build as needed/on demand',,,the BMW stuff is just sooooo expensive to have lots laying around ...it's amazing what people want,,, for example: woody gimme,,,,

a new hub BUT get it powdercoated or polished or beadblasted...no i don't want a reconditioned hub ,,which would be much less expensive

use my old hub,,BUT use chrome or ss or MONZTER spokes and anodize/podercoat/polish my rim,,,

so right there ther are 20-30 combinations..

if you call in,,and tell us what you want we'll build em and try to get as close to what ya have to get a fair trade-in,,,when we get yours they'll get a fair inspection and analysis and we'll work out a win-win deal...so many GS wheels come in with bent rims,,,the dilemna is the x-lace pattern does an incredible job of masking the extent of the bends,,,so we HAVE to straighten em first,,,BECAUSE itis IMPOSSIBLE to do this wit traditional spoe tweaking/truing techniques...and that's where the crux of the problem lies
Thanks Woody.
That's about what I figured.
I will be in touch with you to talk about getting the work done.

Ride Safe,
Vettster
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:00 AM   #37
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i'm willing to bet that they will work just fine...

folks i'm out of town,,but will be back in denver on the 19th,,,and check on this matter,,,,,up until now we have had zero problem with the abs not working on any bike that we've modified,,,the main error derives from speedo/odometer errors caused by the varying circumferences,,,some models actually can reconfigure the computer for the new rim diameters,,,unfortunately on mechanically drven speedo/odometers will require new facias,,,

most riders can easily figure BWOE that 60 mph equals 3.000rpm with their original wheel configuration,,,then they mark their speedo at the new spot on the speedo when they ride at 3,000 rpm= 60mph,,,the new reading will be higher or lower depending upon if the new rim is larger or smaller in circumference

in the meantime,,,i'll give a money back guarantee to anyone that is willing to solve this issue,,,woody
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:55 AM   #38
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Thanks Woody, your confidence is making me think hard about doing the swop. I could always pull the ABS fuses if things get confused.

What do you think Rob, is it time we stopped thinking about it and ordered some wheels ? ( You first )
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:52 AM   #39
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bigger footprint mo better in the sand!!!...FLOTATION,flotation,flotation!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Autostream
Hey Woddy & Chris,

Still haven't managed to as much as scratch the wheels I got from you last year, but I do have a question.

Before I high sided in the weekend and dislocated my shoulder I was riding sand with two ther 950's, both with standard '05 rims, while I am running the 1.85 up front and 2.5 rear....we are running a mix of tires but are all running 140/80 & 90/90's

I noticed everytime that I was immediately behind either of them that I seemed to need a little extra speed to stay in on top of the sand. All carrying similar fuel load and not hugely different in weight.

One of my fellow ADV riders has also ridden both my bike and the others and has commented mine seemed more inclined to carve the sand and wash out.

This got me to thinking.... when I ordered my bullet proof wheels for rocks etc, have I short changed myself in the sand area by having rolled my tioes into a rounder profile and hence less 'flat footed' for the sand?

If this is the case, simple, I get my stock wheels and bring them over for you to re rim with standard width, heavier duty rims klater in the year....but I am looking for imput on if this may be a contributing factor.
your analysis is spot on,,,,,a bigger footprint in the sand allows you to float on top easier,,,also lowering the tire pressure allows the tire to widen and spread the load to the sand in a manner that minimizes sinking in,,,and picking the right tires becomes important to the point that the 'sand specialists' even only buy special thread styles and paddle tires for increased grip and flotation,,,

we build wheels/rim tire combinations for a broad spectrum of special interests,,,i DO NEED to KNOW your intended application,,,,i know customers that have 5 different sets of wheels for their bike
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If you have any questions... Post Em Here
..For more info check our website...
www.woodyswheelworks.com
....Wanna e-mail us... woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
......Wanna talk,,,call us
toll free... 1-866-936-0232
........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

woody's wheel works screwed with this post 07-17-2006 at 06:04 AM
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Old 07-17-2006, 05:59 AM   #40
woody's wheel works OP
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upgrade the front hub,,,

Quote:
Originally Posted by KenR
Yep, the '03 already has a cush drive. So would you recommend going to a bigger front hub to beef things up, or is it overkill.

BTW, I will be ordering a supermoto wheel set from you shortly for a 450MXC and WILL want the cush drive for that bike.
IF you have the old hub similar to the one they are recalling i'd get the upgraded one,,,,or a RAD/Talon,,,,

the newer '95 on LC-4 Adventures share the same double disc set up used on the LC-8s ,,,,, these have the beefier style already
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W
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Old 07-17-2006, 03:11 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
your analysis is spot on,,,,,a bigger footprint in the sand allows you to float on top easier,,,also lowering the tire pressure allows the tire to widen and spread the load to the sand in a manner that minimizes sinking in,,,and picking the right tires becomes important to the point that the 'sand specialists' even only buy special thread styles and paddle tires for increased grip and flotation,,,

we build wheels/rim tire combinations for a broad spectrum of special interests,,,i DO NEED to KNOW your intended application,,,,i know customers that have 5 different sets of wheels for their bike
OK, so I'm not about to have 5 sets of wheels, but may have to look at making my stockers bullet proof.

I lower the pressures significantly, but I suspect that because the tires are rolled in so much for the narrow rim that the sidewalls are not flexing as much as they could/should, particularly with a strong tires like the Dunlop D908 RR...would this also be a correct observation?

QUESTION:
If I was to bring my stock wheels over in September (be in USA for 4 weeks) what rims would you recomend for travelling outback Australia and sand?
Here's a good example of conditions... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152387 but maybe with a little more sand.

No intention of running paddles (except for maybe one play day). Probably more things like Dunlop D908RR's, Michelin Deserts and stock Scorpions for light off road/street. Runninmg 140/80 & 90/90.
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:32 AM   #42
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ya got it right again!!!!

[quote=Autostream]OK, so I'm not about to have 5 sets of wheels, but may have to look at making my stockers bullet proof.

I lower the pressures significantly, but I suspect that because the tires are rolled in so much for the narrow rim that the sidewalls are not flexing as much as they could/should, particularly with a strong tires like the Dunlop D908 RR...would this also be a correct observation?

exactly,,,,if the tires are too stiff,they will not round out to get the proper profile for spreading the load better,,hence they just drop down and bury themselves,,,REMEMBER the key notion is FLOTATATION when it comes todealing with sand

there are several great tech articles that i read years ago showing the dynamics of what transpires in sandy circumstances

so getting a large soft foorprint is what we are after

QUESTION:
If I was to bring my stock wheels over in September (be in USA for 4 weeks) what rims would you recomend for travelling outback Australia and sand?

if ya spend more time in the sand then the hard pack then i think the oem rim sizes sound good to me,,,,we can improve a bit on the strength and durability of your wheel ,,possibly go with 4.25x18 Sun/Excel rims ,,lighter and strong without the crazy big tire bead of the oem Behrs....which BTW are a major pain in the butt to break the bead on on your stock oem Behrs

if ya spend 50 -50 time on road and dirt then 3.50x18 is your better bet and to reiterate,,,the hot set-up for mostly trail/dirt riding is 2.50/2.75 x18

Here's a good example of conditions... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=152387 but maybe with a little more sand.

i just love those conditions,,,billabongs n all
quote]
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........If you're lost???... GPS = 39*40'33.86N x 104*59'54.69W

woody's wheel works screwed with this post 07-20-2006 at 07:57 AM
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Old 07-19-2006, 11:23 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody's wheel works
4,,drive to first place you can remove the plug and have a T-patch installed

What is and where can one find T patches?

Are they reliable?
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:03 AM   #44
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T-patches,,,,

[quote=wibby]What is and where can one find T patches?

T-patch or mshroom patch as some people call them is a tire/tube patch molded to a plug,,ie a patch n plug in one unit shaped like a T/mushroom,,,will see if i can insert pic later....any tire repair parts house has them,,,

Are they reliable?

the safest most reliable system i've found to date,,provided they are properly prepped ans installed,,,READ the directions
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:42 AM   #45
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Here's one I bet you don't get everyday:

I want to put dirt-track capable tires on a '98 Sportster. On the front I've got a 19x2.5 with a Dunlop K180. My question is, what's best for the rear... 17 or 18 inch? I've got a new stock rear hub ready to go so I can go either way. Doesn't need to be super wide, but how wide a rim can I use with the stock belt drive?
With the bias front tire I don't want a radial rear, so I think that rules out most of the 17" tires. Also, I want to stay with DOT-legal tires. Any suggestions?
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