Ask Woody About Your Wheels

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by MH950SE

Hi Woody, I was wondering what your thoughts are on a wheel build that I am thinking about. First of all, I have a 950 SE and I would like to build up a set of tubeless wheels.

What I am thinking is a set of after-market hubs, superlaced to a set of Alpina STS tubeless rims. Is this possible? The only Alpina stuff that I found is a set of tubeless wheels for the 990 ADV, but for choice, I want to stay with the standard SE wheel sizes. Would it be possible to drill something like a DID Dirtstar rim to fit the Alpina STS spoke and nipple system?

If there is some sort of way to do this, let me know where to send the check!

Thanks in advance for your comments,
Mark

hi mark would love to help you,,,and could BUT..

currently there are no 21 inch rims in the size ya need that have been speced for tubeless ie exact rim circumference PLUS a safety bead..we do not make rims tubeless without a safety bead...

i was over at Alpina about a year ago and thought i'd be able to lock in some sort of deal,,BUT??????...too long a tale... and ihave yet to see one here in usa ,,so we are working on our own to complement our sealing techniques that have been getting better.

woody

[MH950SE]

Originally Posted by woody's wheel works

hi mark would love to help you,,,and could BUT..

currently there are no 21 inch rims in the size ya need that have been speced for tubeless ie exact rim circumference PLUS a safety bead..we do not make rims tubeless without a safety bead...

i was over at Alpina about a year ago and thought i'd be able to lock in some sort of deal,,BUT??????...too long a tale... and ihave yet to see one here in usa ,,so we are working on our own to complement our sealing techniques that have been getting better.

woody

hmmm, thanks for the reply. In that case, would it be possible to use the Alpina ADV rims with the SE hubs? Or would I be better off going for a 19/17 set up if Alpina (or FABA, or...) do rims in that size? Basically I'm trying to figure out the best tubeless set-up for 60/40 street/dirt that doesn't involve sealing standard tube-type wheels.

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by MH950SE

hmmm, thanks for the reply. In that case, would it be possible to use the Alpina ADV rims with the SE hubs? Or would I be better off going for a 19/17 set up if Alpina (or FABA, or...) do rims in that size? Basically I'm trying to figure out the best tubeless set-up for 60/40 street/dirt that doesn't involve sealing standard tube-type wheels.

check this out

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284243

then holler
woody

[dlew]

hey woody,

love your work!

how can you help me get tubeless tires on my bmw r80g/s?

let me know!

dlew

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by dlew

hey woody,

love your work!

how can you help me get tubeless tires on my bmw r80g/s?

let me know!

dlew

i think i'd start by seeing if we can convert R100Gs X-laced BMW wheels to your bike,,,,

woody

[Bruce Caldwell]

Hi Woody!, Hope my wheels are coming along. I've got a couple of dumb questions in the meantime. When I get them back from you I figure I need to chase the rotor & abs ring mounting hole threads in the hubs with a tap to clean out any old loctite residue. Should I use a bottoming or plug tap or will a gun tap go deep enough? Also, will blue loctite be sufficient on the rotor bolts (re-using original hardware by the way) & is the wave washer supposed to compress all the way? And finally, I re-painted the ABS rings so they wouldn't ugly up your work, but I did put a small center punch mark on them & the hubs so I could re-mount them where they were originally. I hope the powder coating didn't cover up the center punch mark as of course the original plan was to leave the hubs with the stock paint. But if it did, do I need to use a dial indicator to find the tooth on the abs ring with the widest axial runout so as to correctly measure the gap between the ring & the sensor? thanks for your time & wisdom, Bruce

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by Bruce Caldwell

Hi Woody!, Hope my wheels are coming along. I've got a couple of dumb questions in the meantime. When I get them back from you I figure I need to chase the rotor & abs ring mounting hole threads in the hubs with a tap to clean out any old loctite residue. Should I use a bottoming or plug tap or will a gun tap go deep enough? any 8x1.25mm tap will do,,of course a bottomming tap will zip all the way down..it 's the first few threads that sem to have the most residue,,,,and blow em clean!!!
Also, will blue loctite be sufficient on the rotor bolts (re-using original hardware by the way)yes,,just a small drop of blue is sufficient!!!
& is the wave washer supposed to compress all the way?no there should be a noticeable amount of wave left
And finally, I re-painted the ABS rings so they wouldn't ugly up your work, but I did put a small center punch mark on them & the hubs so I could re-mount them where they were originally. I hope the powder coating didn't cover up the center punch mark as of course the original plan was to leave the hubs with the stock paint. But if it did, do I need to use a dial indicator to find the tooth on the abs ring with the widest axial runout so as to correctly measure the gap between the ring & the sensor? thanks for your time & wisdom, Bruce

oh boy,,,your ABS rings are ss and putting powdercoat on them may or may not affect the ability to read the notches ie it may insulate /affect the the magnetic field,,,i wouldn't worry about he punch mark because it isn't necessary ,,,,your brake discs of course would work better to return to the same pads that they have been seated to....as to needing dial indicators for clerance issues??perhaps overkill,,,and yes you do want to get the ABS ring sensor adjusted for optimal oem specs.

hope that steadies your concerns..holler if ya need more info

woody

[Bruce Caldwell]

Woody, all I did to the ABS rings was buff them with a small brass brush in a Foredom (jewelers handpiece) & painted them with a rattle can. I can easily buff the paint off if I need to. The dial indicator business was not in reference to brake rotors, if I caused some confusion, rather the ABS rings, as my Clymer manual says that when the rings are re-moved from the wheels or a new ring is installed, that you must check each individual tooth untill you find the one with the widest runout & mark that one to use for checking the gap at the sensor. As for my rotors i lightly wet sanded them using dishwashing soap & water & painted the inside, or carrier part with caliper paint to snazz em up a little.

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by Bruce Caldwell

Woody, all I did to the ABS rings was buff them with a small brass brush in a Foredom (jewelers handpiece) & painted them with a rattle can. I can easily buff the paint off if I need to. The dial indicator business was not in reference to brake rotors, if I caused some confusion, rather the ABS rings, as my Clymer manual says that when the rings are re-moved from the wheels or a new ring is installed, that you must check each individual tooth untill you find the one with the widest runout & mark that one to use for checking the gap at the sensor. As for my rotors i lightly wet sanded them using dishwashing soap & water & painted the inside, or carrier part with caliper paint to snazz em up a little.

Bruce you are doing just fine,,i'd heed the clymer manual..i am not a bmw technician,,i do know that the clearance needs to be checked,,,and of course it makes sense to adjust it to the spoke that's closest to the pick-up.,,,

regarding th epaint on the ABS ring ???..like i said all ya can do is check if the system works or not...

woody

[dbmuller311]

Just picked up an R1100R in nearly mint condition. One problem. The wierd three-prong wheels that it's riding on. I am trying to find some used spoke wheels for it. I am unsure of the size, maybe 18 in the front and 17 in the rear? How much for them and do they still exist?

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by dbmuller311

Just picked up an R1100R in nearly mint condition. One problem. The wierd three-prong wheels that it's riding on. I am trying to find some used spoke wheels for it. I am unsure of the size, maybe 18 in the front and 17 in the rear? How much for them and do they still exist?

hi dbmuller311,,

these oem wire wheels do exist circa $1100 each...
we can either build you a set and you can have em custom color/anodizing etc or i'm sur we did not sell aset we reconditioned in super nice shape....

the front is a 2.5x18 and the rear a4.0x17..i may even have a police special set with like new tires on...

holler,,,woody

[GSBS]

About a month ago my 03 Dakar ABS with stock wheels was rear-ended, causing significant damage to, among other things, both wheels.

The right front of the Dodge Durango SUV that hit me went between the top of the rear wheel and the underside of my rear fender. This has caused an oblong-ness bend to the wheel, although the hub appears to be find. The out-of-roundness is slight, but clearly noticeable when sighting on a jackstand placed on the floor beside the wheel whilst rotating the wheel.

After the collision the bike was propelled forward well over 100 feet before leaving the road into a wooded ravine. The right side fork tube broke at the axle and the wheel has at least one bent (flat) spot. Again, the hub appears to be fine.

My question is how much it would cost to replace these bent wheels with 18/21 combo wheels laced to my original hubs?

The other driver's insurance has refused to fix the bike (they want to total it) but is not offering me enough to buy another comparable bike so I'm exploring fixing the old one. BTW, if I do this I'll probably install forks from a Yamaha or KTM instead of the stock Showas (something I was considering anyway). I realize this might affect which front hub I choose as well.

If I go the repair route I'd also remove the ABS system altogether, so the ABS sensor would not be an issue.

Thanks!

[woody's wheel works]

Originally Posted by GSBS

About a month ago my 03 Dakar ABS with stock wheels was rear-ended, causing significant damage to, among other things, both wheels.

The right front of the Dodge Durango SUV that hit me went between the top of the rear wheel and the underside of my rear fender. This has caused an oblong-ness bend to the wheel, although the hub appears to be find. The out-of-roundness is slight, but clearly noticeable when sighting on a jackstand placed on the floor beside the wheel whilst rotating the wheel.

After the collision the bike was propelled forward well over 100 feet before leaving the road into a wooded ravine. The right side fork tube broke at the axle and the wheel has at least one bent (flat) spot. Again, the hub appears to be fine.

My question is how much it would cost to replace these bent wheels with 18/21 combo wheels laced to my original hubs?

The other driver's insurance has refused to fix the bike (they want to total it) but is not offering me enough to buy another comparable bike so I'm exploring fixing the old one. BTW, if I do this I'll probably install forks from a Yamaha or KTM instead of the stock Showas (something I was considering anyway). I realize this might affect which front hub I choose as well.

If I go the repair route I'd also remove the ABS system altogether, so the ABS sensor would not be an issue.

Thanks!

circa $700-800 to build you a set of wheels on hubs that you supply

woody

[Bruce Caldwell]

Hi Woody!, just wanted to ask if you could send me a PM or call me & let me know when my wheels ship out & give me a tracking number? If I know the day they're supposed to arrive i'll probably call in sick so i'll be sure to not to miss the guy (or gal) in the big brown truck. Not tryin to pester ya'll but the anticipation of their arrival has got me giddy like a kid at Christmas.

[plumber mike]

Woody- 09 Xcountry... I want to go 21/18 and never look back. TT sells complete wheels with hubs and excel rims $$$. Would I save a signifigant amount of money having you redo my current hubs or should I just buy a complete set and sell the 19/17's?

Thanks,

Mike