|Yesterday, 07:23 AM||#1|
ZAPP - Tejas
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Tejas Hill Country
Help with bearing suffixes
gang I need to wheel bearings for a v-strom. nominal part designation is "6203/2RS" - some say it should have "CL" suffix but no consensus.
Also some say avoid "all balls", and use SKF instead [european]. I don't know what suzuki uses these days.
the skf parts i'm finding the most of stateside have suffix "J" or "H", i.e. 6203-2RSH or 6203-2RSJ.
I don't want to have to do it twice so I need help understanding if this is a significant on insignificant suffix.
I don't see any "CL" designation at all in that brand.
also, need tip on removal of the old bearing. tapping one out should be easy but how to remove the dust seals, and get the first bearing out? i don't have a "puller" per se - maybe autozone has one... I could take the wheel
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|Yesterday, 07:48 AM||#2|
Unpaved road avoider
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Evanston IL
Suzuki uses Japanese bearings. That's good. You can lever the inner spacer aside to get a drift over a bit of the inner race of the far bearing to punch it out. It helps to heat the hub around the bearing. Remove the dust seal by levering it out.
If you have a seal puller.
The old fashioned way if you don't.
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greywolf screwed with this post Yesterday at 07:56 AM
|Yesterday, 07:51 AM||#3|
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Los Alamitos, CA
Generally most worn out bearing manufacturing machines go to China or India
to die a long protracted death of producing out of round ball bearings filled with poor lubricants.
Any decent bearing provider will have a full description of all designations at the beginning of their catalog.
Just about all brands are online in pdf and many designations are shared.
The joy of discovery by finding this info on your own helps one own it, it becomes ours.
|Yesterday, 08:19 AM||#5|
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: East Tennessee
almost every bearing manufacturer has slightly different suffixes (many mean the same thing)
here is a link to a SKF master interchange guide, the first several pages explain bearing nomenclature.
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|Yesterday, 08:41 AM||#6|
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa, USA
If you want to make it simple, contact CBR Bearing Co. http://www.cbrbearing.com and tell them what you want. They will provide you with a kit which includes the correct dust seals and bearings. Their stuff is top quality and even has lifetime guarantee. That said, I have purchased parts from allballsracing and can't really criticize them as a low cost alternative.
You do not need to remove the seal when pulling the bearing. It will fall out in the process on its own, usually undamaged. I always warm the hubs with a hot air gun before removal or installation (there are a couple of reasons for doing this). It also helps to chill the bearing in a freezer for a few hours before installing them. You can actually find usable bearing pullers on Amazon or ebay which are not too expensive and will make your life much easier.
Every bearing company has their own version of code numbers which are similar but not necessarily identical. Bearings rarely have the complete code number written on them. If you look at the box that a new bearing comes in, you will often see a much longer code number which tells the complete specs. On a used bearing, it's not easy to determine the exact original number.
|Yesterday, 11:11 AM||#7|
One wheel wonder...
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Moneyapolis, MN
^ good link there.
Learn something everyday.
|Yesterday, 05:56 PM||#8|
Rectum Non Bustibus
Joined: May 2009
Location: Dearborn, MI
The simplest way is to take the old bearings to your local bearing supplier and ask for replacements. They will measure them and cross reference them, and you'll walk out with the proper replacements.
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