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Old 06-25-2014, 07:14 PM   #1
Ladukebob OP
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Location: Hood River, Or.
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Clutch pushrod

Is the clutch pushrod something that needs replacing periodically? Trying to figure out why shifting into first from neutral is really rough, like chattering rough. I have replaced the clutch fluid and bled. I replaced the clutch slave with an Oberon last year when the stock slave started acting up so I feel like I can rule that out. While replacing the slave I did check the clutch jet. The clutch lever feels like it is nice and stiff with good resistance.I did run across a thread regarding rough shifting due to the pressure cap bolts backing out, I'll check those next. Bike has about 18,000 miles. Thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 06-25-2014, 07:24 PM   #2
Black Hills
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It should last forever, check fluid and bleed.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:26 PM   #3
gefr
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You have incomplete disengagement

This could have several reasons. Since you have good resistance at your lever, master cylinder failure could be left out. Another reason could be clutch plates get warped from heat and rub, even with lever pulled all the way in. You could try adjusting the red button for more lever movement, to increase the space that separates clutch discs. If that doesn't work and you end up at traffic lights in gear and the bike moves forward, you may need replacing clutch discs. Mine usually last 45k kms.
Cheers.
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gefr screwed with this post 06-29-2014 at 11:30 PM
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Old 06-25-2014, 11:46 PM   #4
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There is a small wave washer in the clutch that causes some wear on the inner most metal plate. This washer pushes the clutch stack out when you pull the lever. It will wear a groove into the closest metal plate.

Pull out all the plates. Swap the inner most metal plate with another one.

Also, the metal plates have sharp edges on one side and rounded on the other. When you reinstall all the metal plates, put the rounded edges to the outside of the clutch pack.

This will improve way the clutch releases.
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:50 AM   #5
Ladukebob OP
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Great info guys, thanks. I have played with the lever adjusting screw and it hasn't helped. It's not to the point of wanting to pull while the lever is pulled in at stops but I feel it really close.

I'm going to pull the cover off next and inspect the plates. Good tip on the innermost plate I'll look at that. It has to be something simple like that, the bike really doesn't get ridden very hard and low miles. I'm confident that I'm doing a good job replacing and bleeding the clutch fluid so I really think it has to be something else going on.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:22 AM   #6
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The OEM pushrod actually does wear... At least in 950/990's if youre going to change or bleed your slave cylinder its a good time to replace your push rod pretty easy job... Check this out

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20.../evo_swap.html
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Old 06-26-2014, 04:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
There is a small wave washer in the clutch that causes some wear on the inner most metal plate. This washer pushes the clutch stack out when you pull the lever. It will wear a groove into the closest metal plate.

Pull out all the plates. Swap the inner most metal plate with another one.

Also, the metal plates have sharp edges on one side and rounded on the other. When you reinstall all the metal plates, put the rounded edges to the outside of the clutch pack.

This will improve way the clutch releases.
Took a look at the clutch plates this afternoon and the metal plates were installed in a mixed of sharp edges inward and some outward. The inner most plate was a little shinier and I swapped it out for one of the others. Disks look like new really. But after I reassembled it I read this-

"The round recesses(for demounting) must be in the same meshing"
"The lining disk must be turned one meshing further"

They didn't come out that way so I reinstalled them at random meshings. Now I'm thinking I should pull them back out and line them up.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:55 PM   #8
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The old style push rod will wear and fall apart. It was a combo of steel and aluminum. It would generate aluminum filings and clog things up.

The new all steel black one has no problems.
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:03 PM   #9
dgjackson40
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Plates

I used Zuber's instructions concerning the swapping and made sure meshing was per manual and smoothed my shifting right out. Previous owner rode it a few weeks ago and remarked on how shifting felt smoother than when he owned it.
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:45 PM   #10
Ladukebob OP
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Ok, followed the instructions on the clutch plates and disks and reassembled, pushrod looks fine, pumped some more 2.5w. fork oil through the clutch slave and bled all air. And after all that, no change, it still grinds into first from neutral. What's next? Inspect the oil jet?

I did notice that the clutch disks seemed to be kind of dry, is that normal?
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:41 AM   #11
dgjackson40
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Oil

I am sure you have you have checked your oil level and consistency? Any chance the WP is going and there is coolant in the oil????
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:17 PM   #12
Ladukebob OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgjackson40 View Post
I am sure you have you have checked your oil level and consistency? Any chance the WP is going and there is coolant in the oil????
Oil looks good no problems there. I switched to Lucus 10/50 a while ago because I felt it shifted smoother. I really think the clutch disks tend to stick together when the lever is pulled in so I'm going to try running the bike for a while with the clutch lever engaged to see if the disks will free up some. When I pulled the plates out yesterday the first 5 where kind of "glued" together and I had to pry them apart.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:03 AM   #13
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Well I'm at a total loss as to why this shifts so rough into first from neutral and second for that matter. I've had the clutch apart a couple times now looking for anything that looks out of place. Cleaned the oil jet yesterday (I'm getting pretty fast at that now) it may have been plugged and the reason I say that is because there was a pool of oil sitting above the jet when I removed the engine case bolt.

Clutch slave and pushrod seem to be working just fine.

ktm 990 clutch travel from Dan Kleinsmith on Vimeo.



The one thing that bugs me about the clutch disks and the metal plates is how they really stick together. And even though there seems to be good clutch disengagement there is lot of resistance on the back wheel in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in while on the center stand. I can see a little, which I think would be normal, but I have to really hang on to the back wheel to keep it from spinning.

I cringe every time I shift from neutral to first
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:41 AM   #14
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The bellevillel washer at the back is there to do that, I think it helps keep the disks in line otherwise you get a very inconsistent clutch.
You may have too much oil going through the plates, this causes a lot of drag.

My clutch is usually graby when the bike is first started but does settle down, however neutral to first I just get on with it as if you pussy around it sounds like your trying to grind up the gearbox

Mines a 2004 950 and still has the original push rod and basket.

Steve
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:47 AM   #15
Bowber
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Also just noticed, the last plate needs to be turned one notch so it's in the shallow slot.
No idea why but that's what the KTM manual says so it's gotta be right

Steve
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