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Old 10-08-2010, 01:53 PM   #1531
Pyndon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilslamer
What country's coin is that? Nice fix!
Was actually in France at the time but none of their coins were big enough

UK - 50p GBP
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #1532
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Nice little plug for Salt and Gold in TBM(aug 10), little behind getting it here, but much better rag than the ones here in NA, wish we could get more.
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:59 AM   #1533
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Steering bearings and sub-frame fix......







It's usually the heavily loaded lower race that goes on the steering bearing but this time it was the upper for the first time. Maybe moisture ingress / corrosion









Overkill - YES

Piece of mind - YES

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Old 10-09-2010, 08:37 PM   #1534
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Pyndon, thanks for documenting your 950 love affair so thoroughly! This thread is going to be a great help with my '03 basket case I just bought (90,000 miles, still runs well!)

Cheers,
Greg
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Old 10-10-2010, 03:23 AM   #1535
Steverino
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Did you replace the split bearings on your crankshaft when you rebuilt the motor or did the new case halves come with them?

Current part numbers for the split bearings come up not available from KTM. Kind of slowing my engine rebuild project. Dealer is trying to find out from KTM if available.

Other than that all parts ordered to start the rebuild process on my 950 motor. Engine case welded from inside and out this time.

Steve the PITA

EDIT: Never mind, I see in your engine rebuild mega post you did replace the bearings. I will wait for my dealer to sort out with KTM.

BTW thanks for that post, it will be my guide as I move forward with my rebuild.
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:56 AM   #1536
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Steve,

If you've not taken them out of the cases, then just double check that they are in tolerance (as per the manual as I keep telling you ), if the tolerance of the crank and bearings are good then don't even bother taking the old ones out of the cases. FYI, they should be fine, mine were not out of spec, just the new cases do not come with the shells so rather than remove and fit the old ones, I decided to fit new ones, you'll probably be OK. To be honest, I would go as far as saying just throw it back together, but you'd be pissed if a main bearing went in 10K miles! Worth checking if you know someone that's got the right measurement tools.

Also, you need the tools to press the new shells out of and into the cases and if your not 110% lined up / square (i.e. use a good press) then they can pick-up on the cases and

Either throw it back together and forget about it OR measure them for peace of mind. Certainly don't just change them for the sake of it, you cannot order the right sizes until you've measured the crank anyway.

Hope this helps.

Pyn

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
Did you replace the split bearings on your crankshaft when you rebuilt the motor or did the new case halves come with them?

Current part numbers for the split bearings come up not available from KTM. Kind of slowing my engine rebuild project. Dealer is trying to find out from KTM if available.

Other than that all parts ordered to start the rebuild process on my 950 motor. Engine case welded from inside and out this time.

Steve the PITA

EDIT: Never mind, I see in your engine rebuild mega post you did replace the bearings. I will wait for my dealer to sort out with KTM.

BTW thanks for that post, it will be my guide as I move forward with my rebuild.
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Old 10-10-2010, 07:31 AM   #1537
Steverino
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old bearings removed.

Used the correct tool and have access to it to put back in.

Cases measured after removal and they are within spec.

Everything has been done by the manual so far and will be for the rest of it. Only problem so far is that the "right" KTM tool (the same one you are using to press your shells in) does not work on my 950. The machine shop helping me used that one as a model and made one to use and it worked getting them out. It was too large and got caught on the "lip" on the inside of the cases preventing removing the bearing.

Go figure. Taking my time and reading a bunch to make sure I do it right.
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:40 AM   #1538
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Steve,

Since they are already out, you may as well measure the crank and get the right size shells and put new ones in. Why did you take them out? You could have measured them in the bores and if they were all in spec, just left them in, no need to do anything more.

Good luck with the rebuild, worth checking the wear on the output shaft splines and fitting a new type gearbox oil rail (with seals), a new oil pressure relief piston, spring & housing (if necessary) and checking the oil pump specs. Also, put the new style shift drum and new shift drum rollers in too if you have a spare $100.

Other than this, just check everything else while your in there. including all the bearings for smooth operation. The LHS balance bearing is the weakest link on the old engines IMO (it's a ball bearing rather than a cylindrical roller like on the later motors), worth checking.

Oh, more advice, worth removing the nuts from the clutch booster plate (the parts the pressure plate bolts screw into), clean them thoroughly and re-fit with the strongest loctite you can get your hands on. Two of mine were loose and I know AntWare's motor spat one out and made a right mess! Manual does not show them as separable.

Pyn

PS. Post some pictures of you working on the motor, I cannot get the image of a gorilla holding a sledge hammer out of my head

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
old bearings removed.

Used the correct tool and have access to it to put back in.

Cases measured after removal and they are within spec.

Everything has been done by the manual so far and will be for the rest of it. Only problem so far is that the "right" KTM tool (the same one you are using to press your shells in) does not work on my 950. The machine shop helping me used that one as a model and made one to use and it worked getting them out. It was too large and got caught on the "lip" on the inside of the cases preventing removing the bearing.

Go figure. Taking my time and reading a bunch to make sure I do it right.
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Old 10-10-2010, 12:22 PM   #1539
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I am a gentle giant when working on bikes (well not as big as I used to be).

Removed them because they were scored and since I was that deep wanted to get it right putting it back together.

I'll check on those other parts, but right now all is on hold because KTM shows the bearing shells as not available from KTM. Waiting to clear that up. Surely they have them available. I'll know more this week.

Some pics are coming.

Going to take my time redoing, I got more of that than $$$$ that is for sure.

What is up with the new shift drum? Already ordered new rollers for the shift forks.
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:23 PM   #1540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
What is up with the new shift drum? Already ordered new rollers for the shift forks.
Both Ant and I have damaged the old ones, they used to have a weak sidewall so KTM re-designed them around 2005. I know a few people that have the new one now.

I must have got the last shells they had on the shelf

Incidentally, what size shells did you need, cannot imagine they are out of all sizes! What did the crank measure?
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:25 PM   #1541
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I need red...no change since new. Can't remember the exact measurement, but it was within the red range.

I noticed in your pic that there is a groove in both upper and lower shells. KTM manual and parts both show only one with a groove on the upper left side case. The other three bearings have no groove in either the manual of the parts catalog.

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Old 10-10-2010, 01:34 PM   #1542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
I need red...no change since new. Can't remember the exact measurement, but it was within the red range.

I noticed in your pic that there is a groove in both upper and lower shells. KTM manual and parts both show only one with a groove on the upper left side case. The other three bearings have no groove in either the manual of the parts catalog.
Steve, in your cases you can do either.

Extract from KTM shop notes:

There are 2 types of bearings for each bearing color –– the grooved
bearing shell (with the lubricating groove and oil bore) is pressed
into the top of the case half of the generator end and the smooth
bearing shells (without lubricating groove) are pressed into the
bottom of the case half of the generator end and into the case half
of the output end - applicable for models up to the 2004 model.

Bearing shells with grooves on the top and bottom (with lubricating
groove and lubrication bore) are mounted on the generator end of
the housing half from the 2005 model.

A new crankshaft comes with 2 grooved bearing shells. They can
also be installed in engines preceding the 2004 model.


Just FYI, when I replaced the shift drum on mine at around 30K miles, I fitted new shells and fitted groved top and bottom in the old cases (generator side only though). Proof it works. Be sure fit them properly though, they do have a tendency to walk once replaced as the old cases don't have shell retaining plates. It's not an issue though. Grooved top and bottom in old cases:

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Old 10-10-2010, 01:35 PM   #1543
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Good to know...now if I can find them.
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:45 PM   #1544
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Got it thanks Pyn. I have a well qualified machine shop helping me. They pressed the old ones out and will help press the new ones in. They also used a bore gauge on the cases and mic'd the crank to verify the bearing size.

Once I get the first batch of parts in I will get the cases back together and then move on to the pistons and valves. I got time.
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:51 PM   #1545
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Valves will definitely want lapping, especially the exhausts. Make sure you take time and don't use too course a paste. Make sure you get them so their is a nice dull band all the way around the valve, the full width of the seat.

Piston's should be fine (mine had not warn at all from new!), just check ring gap and replace rings if need be.

Enjoy.
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