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Old 10-10-2010, 06:12 PM   #1546
C-Dub
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Interesting stuff guys, it's like going to cycle mechanics school!
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Old 10-10-2010, 08:20 PM   #1547
getagripgreg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon
Valves will definitely want lapping, especially the exhausts.
Enjoy.
Pyn, have you noticed any problematic cam journal bore wear in the heads? I checked the lash on my 90K motor today and they are large on the far side of each cam, away from the gear (the unsupported end). Kind of surprised to see the end lobe hanging out there (no outer bearing), and I suspect the outer journals take more load than the inners because of it.

The cam cap definitely looks more worn out the outer end, and I could feel the extra clearance working the cam end up and down by hand. Forgot my camera, so no pics yet.

FWIW, the lash is .002" bigger on the outer end of both ex cams, I suppose I need to bolt up the caps and measure the bore. I don't have a manual yet, any idea what the cam journal clearances should be?

Woo hoo, hi-mile motors!

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Old 10-10-2010, 11:22 PM   #1548
Pyndon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getagripgreg
Pyn, have you noticed any problematic cam journal bore wear in the heads? I checked the lash on my 90K motor today and they are large on the far side of each cam, away from the gear (the unsupported end). Kind of surprised to see the end lobe hanging out there (no outer bearing), and I suspect the outer journals take more load than the inners because of it.

The cam cap definitely looks more worn out the outer end, and I could feel the extra clearance working the cam end up and down by hand. Forgot my camera, so no pics yet.

FWIW, the lash is .002" bigger on the outer end of both ex cams, I suppose I need to bolt up the caps and measure the bore. I don't have a manual yet, any idea what the cam journal clearances should be?

Woo hoo, hi-mile motors!

Cheers,
Greg
Mine is the same, and I have seen others the same too. The gap is filled with pressurized oil once the motor is running so nothing much to worry about. As for the load, typically the gear end in the most heavily loaded and it has to cope with all the driving forces too.

No point worrying about it because apart from changing the heads and cam carrier there is nothing you can do about it! Not even worth measuring it in a lot of cases because lets face it, your not going to replace the heads.

So, yes, seen it before, done anything about it, no. Obviously if its got a 1mm gap you've got a problem
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Old 10-11-2010, 04:00 AM   #1549
Steverino
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measured my pressure release spring this AM. 41 mm. I will be ordering a new housing for the oil pump. You say it comes with the piston and spring in it?
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:20 PM   #1550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
You say it comes with the piston and spring in it?
Yes it's an assembly. Although the parts manual does not show it that way, it comes complete
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Old 10-11-2010, 03:11 PM   #1551
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Ordered the housing, clutch drum, and oil tube today. Confirmed that the split bearings are on order from KTM. Should be ready for phase I of the reassembly next week.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:04 PM   #1552
getagripgreg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon
So, yes, seen it before, done anything about it, no. Obviously if its got a 1mm gap you've got a problem
That's great to hear! FWIW, I considered buying a set of lower mile heads so that I could freshen the top end without replacing valves... but I did a leakdown test tonight and it was unbelievable. The front hole, done first, showed about 8% cold, which made me really happy. It was all past the rings. Amazing enough at damn near 100K.

Then I checked the rear and got 30%, obviously blowing past the intakes. Damn. Shot some solvent down the ports and the right side bubbled, but the left was gushing air... GUSHING.

So after a moment of panic, I remembered the lesson my boss gave me a few years ago. Never trust the leakdown until you make sure the valve is seated... I got out my brass drift and hammer and popped the intake buckets... one hit and the leakdown went to less than 5%.

Just under 90,000 miles and better leakdown numbers than I would ever have imagined.

Heads are staying on and cases are staying glued. I'm going to fix the stator, clutch, and timing chains and expect this mill to be good for at least another 50K.

(knocks on wood)

My internet's fubar at the moment, but I have pics and will post once I'm back online at better than dialup.

Thanks and cheers!
Greg
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:31 PM   #1553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getagripgreg
That's great to hear! FWIW, I considered buying a set of lower mile heads so that I could freshen the top end without replacing valves... but I did a leakdown test tonight and it was unbelievable. The front hole, done first, showed about 8% cold, which made me really happy. It was all past the rings. Amazing enough at damn near 100K.

Then I checked the rear and got 30%, obviously blowing past the intakes. Damn. Shot some solvent down the ports and the right side bubbled, but the left was gushing air... GUSHING.

So after a moment of panic, I remembered the lesson my boss gave me a few years ago. Never trust the leakdown until you make sure the valve is seated... I got out my brass drift and hammer and popped the intake buckets... one hit and the leakdown went to less than 5%.

Just under 90,000 miles and better leakdown numbers than I would ever have imagined.

Heads are staying on and cases are staying glued. I'm going to fix the stator, clutch, and timing chains and expect this mill to be good for at least another 50K.

(knocks on wood)

My internet's fubar at the moment, but I have pics and will post once I'm back online at better than dialup.

Thanks and cheers!
Greg
Greg,

I have had two higher mile motors burn an exhaust valve out now so I always lap the valves every time the heads are off. Intakes are usually ok. If you lap the exhausts a little bit, you will see that the valve is not 100% concentric to the seat, this can be pulled back by lapping as it is only minor. Definitely worth doing IMO, even if it is a PITA to do.

Also, lower mileage heads is not the answer, I've seen later heads with the same problem but worse. I always feel much happier riding the bike knowing 100% that I sorted it.

Pyn
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:59 PM   #1554
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Durability Test of Levers??

So, get this, all the levers on my bike are stock, original brake clutch and gear levers since 2004. Granted, I've replaced the swivel bearings a couple of times in the rear brake lever but other than that I've never replaced the lever. I was riding through Harrogate yesterday, 77,800 miles on the bike and the rear brake pedal decides to just break off, no fall or anything, just fell off





No worries, I'll order another tomorrow. Gets to work today, orders a new rear brake pedal at lunch time and jobs a good en'.

Then, riding home from work today 78,100 milles on the clock and the clutch lever decides to give up the ghost too. No fall, just riding along using the clutch as normal. The swivel pin has warn the lever until it was so weak it broke.





Can't believe they both failed so close together

There's only one thing for it, I'm going to have to stop riding it so much
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Old 10-18-2010, 05:21 PM   #1555
Geek
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Crazy coincidence!


I'm going to replace all my levers at 76,000 miles
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Old 10-18-2010, 06:12 PM   #1556
CodyY
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78,000 miles of pull clutch and jam rear brake.
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:46 PM   #1557
dozer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon




Looks like intergranular corrosion emianating from the threads.

I better run out and put so type of corrosion prevenative compound on that right now.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:49 PM   #1558
NordieBoy
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Sounds like a warranty claim is needed to me.

Only ridden on Sundays.
To Church.
By an old lady.

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Old 10-19-2010, 02:48 AM   #1559
hilslamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CodyY
78,000 miles of pull clutch and jam rear brake.
In the aircraft industry we call this "sympathetic fatigue"
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:03 AM   #1560
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Phhhffffttt... brakes only slow you down.

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