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Old 10-19-2010, 07:37 AM   #1561
dozer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilslamer
In the aircraft industry we call this "sympathetic fatigue"
Now thats funny
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:27 AM   #1562
motorcycledave1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek
Crazy coincidence!


I'm going to replace all my levers at 76,000 miles

Lesson learned: More front brake stoppies and clutchless shifts should solve the problem.
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:18 AM   #1563
Leodis41
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I take it you have checked the front brake lever now?
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:03 PM   #1564
LocuL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon View Post
Keen eyes Ned......correct it's not!

Since the bike is down for a major engine overhaul, I took the opportunity to do a few things I've been wanting to do for a while but didn't want to stomach being without the bike for any amount of time. Now I don't have a choice I'm getting things done.

1) Everything that was silver is getting removed, blasted, prepared and hard anodised black by G-It.

2) Building full rally spec 320mm travel suspension for the bike.

The forks are fairly straight forward, just swapping parts out etc, but the shock is a little more challenging! I'm sticking with Adventure forks and twin disks as I like the extra braking power on the road.

Extending the travel to 280mm on the shock is relatively easy with the stock Adventure shock by using a longer rod. The travel then becomes limited by the length of the body. You can use a longer rod but then you only increase the ride height and are still stuck with 280mm travel. I wanted to do it right and so needed to find a longer upper body tube. Problem is, I could not get one to fit the Adventure shock so....

The shock you see in the picture is a Husaberg dirt bike shock (prototype 1). This was the first attempt. The lower yoke is identical on the Husaberg to the 950 so that gets you the lower yoke and longer rod, the upper body has the longer tube but its a bit sporty to get the upper yoke to fit the 950 frame. I did it, but it involved careful hacking / machining of the upper body / casting around the frame attachment. This made the material rally thin around the valve stack oil gallery.....it worked, but I was not 100% happy because should the upper bearing wear or fail, the frame could potentially crack the upper casting. Unlikely but the thought of being stranded on a trip with no oil in the shock did not appeal to me, especially the places I go . So, I had to come up with another way. The shock bearings on the dirt bike shocks are the same but the bushes are different so I just switched them for the 950 bushings/spacers.

To solve the upper casting issue, I wound up choosing a KTM dirt bike top casting because it moves the reservoir to the right hand side, clears the frame and because the oil gallery is at 45 degrees, I can machine the top casting to fit the frame without reducing the wall thickness too much and still maintain good frame clearance. Down side is, it's likely to clash with the 2-1 I had on and would definitely clash with the stock exhaust, oh well, my header is cracked again anyway so I guess this means I finally have to go with a full-on low-slung dakar style exhaust system

Then there is the reservoir size, if you extend the 950 shock, you have to move the reservoir piton closer to the top thus leaving little or no room for leakage. Again not good for a long distance adventure bike. The work around here is to find a longer reservoir, this also increases oil volume and helps cooling etc. The Husaberg shock has a nice long reservoir so I'll try to maintain that, if not the KTM dirt bike reservoir will suffice.

Final thing is spring. I'm going for a 140 but a slightly longer spring to prevent coil bind at max travel even though the stocker would just about do it.

I'm almost there and what I have now is thus:

- KTM Dirt Bike Upper body
- Husaberg 2-piece long reservoir / piston
- Husaberg Supermoto Upper tube with coarse threads for faster pre-load adjustment
- Husaberg Enduro lower mount with long 18mm shaft/rod
- KTM 950 bushings and spacers upper and lower
- Longer 140 spring (orange )

The result, full travel 320mm shock with 950 spring and valving. More oil capacity for better cooling and good longevity.

A little modification required to the right hand size panel to allow low speed and high speed damping adjustment and bobs your uncle.

Now, where was I with the engine

Sorry if i didnt get this. Was is it ever done? Im really keen to sort some real suspension for this bike.

Regards
Mikael
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Old 12-10-2010, 05:16 PM   #1565
Pyndon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locul@hotmail.com View Post
Sorry if i didnt get this. Was is it ever done? Im really keen to sort some real suspension for this bike.

Regards
Mikael
All done, problem is I need to get the GPR exhaust modified so that the swing arm can move to the new position. GPR is only made for the 'S' model, not for 'Super S'!

Will get around to it one day.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:31 PM   #1566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon View Post
All done, problem is I need to get the GPR exhaust modified so that the swing arm can move to the new position. GPR is only made for the 'S' model, not for 'Super S'!

Will get around to it one day.
Pyn, would the 'Super S' be a easier fit (i.e no need to modify pipes) with the stock cans (or a 2-1)?
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:36 AM   #1567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtb_man View Post
Pyn, would the 'Super S' be a easier fit (i.e no need to modify pipes) with the stock cans (or a 2-1)?
I think so, I think you'd get enough rise with the standard header. The problem is where the GPR comes out from underneath the swinger to the side, only has about 1mm clearance on the 'S' models at full extension and raising the suspenders 60mm means I need about another 20mm at this point.
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Old 12-12-2010, 02:39 PM   #1568
mousitsas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yascher View Post
Hi Pindon,

As far as I understand non of the stock or aftermarket 2-2, 2-1 exhausts systems are aiming at equal header lengths....is there a specific reason for that from your point of view...or maybe I'm missing something in the way engine delivers with each cylinder being happy in a different rpm range, rather than 2 being stuck to one narrow range of optimum performance and therefore reducing bike versatility?
I think the reason for that is the non symmetrical firing order of a V2. The system is 2-1-2. At the junction there is an exchange of pressure waves. The two cylinders face different exhaust pressure phases (due to the uneven timing), hence the unequal lengths.

mousitsas screwed with this post 12-12-2010 at 02:48 PM
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:06 PM   #1569
ADVJake
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300mm/320mm 950?
Lets see some photos of the stretched suspenders on the bike!
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:59 PM   #1570
LocuL
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Super S writeup is needed...

please
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:21 PM   #1571
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wow...

just read this thread from start to finish. amazing work... thanks for the time you put into this. i learned a ton.

_J
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:08 PM   #1572
gefr
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There is something I should mention here.

It seems you have eliminated the safety switch that prevents you to start your bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. This feature stops operating when the clutch lever is worn from the swivel pin so you are forced to replace your clutch lever before it brakes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyndon View Post
Then, riding home from work today 78,100 milles on the clock and the clutch lever decides to give up the ghost too. No fall, just riding along using the clutch as normal. The swivel pin has warn the lever until it was so weak it broke.

You could diagnose lever failure when it is wobling too much or extend its life if you fit two small bearings at the edges of the swivel pins.
Cheers.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:44 AM   #1573
Pyndon OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gefr View Post
It seems you have eliminated the safety switch that prevents you to start your bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. This feature stops operating when the clutch lever is worn from the swivel pin so you are forced to replace your clutch lever before it brakes.

You could diagnose lever failure when it is wobling too much or extend its life if you fit two small bearings at the edges of the swivel pins.
Cheers.
It's more fun doing it this way, and it also makes it more interesting for the reader too.

At 100,000miles you guys are in for a treat. I have a full history logged of everything I have ever done to the bike from oil changes to engine rebuilds with details of everything replaced and why. I will publish at 100,000miles so keep watching

The way it's going that's an ETA of 12 months although I did manage 2,400 miles last week
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:02 AM   #1574
gefr
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Pardon me.

I didn't think of your respectful audience. I was only thinking you could have the failure at some remote place... far away... between hostile aborigins... and life sucking heatwave...
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:36 AM   #1575
Deadly99
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My fancy FPRacing lever just did the same thing on the way home from work last night. It wasn't a cheap lever either
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