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Old 05-28-2014, 01:18 PM   #1
s1marks OP
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Location: Banks, Oregon.
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Front Wheel Bearings R1150GS (2001)

The front wheel on my R1150GS (2001) is making a distinct 'clicking' sound and the occasional screech when rotated (brake calipers removed to elimiate them from the equation). It sounds like one of my bearings (or both) have gone bad.

The Max BMW fiche lists the 2 bearings as

Part No. 36 31 8 534 835 - Grooved Ball Bearing - 20X47X14 $17.40
Part No. 36 31 2 310 973 - Groover Ball Bearing - 25X52X20,6 $59.50

I believe these to be bearings that are otherwise known as a 6204-2RS and 5205-2RS. Is there any reason why I shouldn't replace them with the following bearings form VxB?

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/6204-2RS-1 $3.49
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6938 $19.49

Are these functionally the same? or is it more complicated than that? The 2nd of these bearings on the VxB site is described as an "Angular Contact Sealed Bearing", is that the same as a "Grooved Ball Bearing".

I like saving money, but not if I'm replacing something of quality with something that is of poor quality (or that is of a different spec). Comments?

Thanks for your help
S1
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:19 PM   #2
s1marks OP
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Perhaps my question was not simple enough. Can I use these VxB bearings as direct replacements for the OEM part?

I'm a newb where bearings are concerned and I'd like reassuarce before fitting these to the Bike and 'finding out for sure' whilst on the road.

Thanks for any guidance or confirmation you can give me.

S1
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Old 05-29-2014, 04:58 PM   #3
def
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Not a bearing expert but, at those prices, they are attractive.

Maybe MFOL will answer...he knows bearings.

One of the replacement bearings your are suggesting is a double row, angular contact ball bearing.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:09 PM   #4
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Def you are giving me far more credit than I am capable of backing up.

Offhand, I would say you could use the VxB bearings you found.
But often I have noticed, that if you walk into a local NAPA, or bearing store, with the bearings in hand, they typically have them for very cheap. Try to find the older fellow at the parts counter, not the kid playing on his phone.



I am curious about this as well, at 105K miles, I figure my front bearings will eventually be ready to retire.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:56 PM   #5
def
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Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post
Def you are giving me far more credit than I am capable of backing up.

Offhand, I would say you could use the VxB bearings you found.
But often I have noticed, that if you walk into a local NAPA, or bearing store, with the bearings in hand, they typically have them for very cheap. Try to find the older fellow at the parts counter, not the kid playing on his phone.



I am curious about this as well, at 105K miles, I figure my front bearings will eventually be ready to retire.
Ooops...sorry.

I wonder about the double angular bearing though...I have never had my front wheel bearings out for a up-close-and-personal inspection.

Maybe Anton or Steptoe, or Mr. Addict knows....
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:02 PM   #6
def
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S1, once you have the bearings out of the hub, you'll likely be able to tell more about what will or will not work.

The OE bearings are likely manufactured by FAG. BMW likes FAG. They will have numbers on them that can be used for cross reference by a savvy bearing guy.

Good luck and please let us know the outcome.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:34 PM   #7
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It is extremely difficult to get those bearings out using the conventional method, The spacer inside does not move enough to allow you to get a decent hit on the other side.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:43 PM   #8
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To remove the bearings:

The hub has to be heated as per OE manual:
"Heat bearing seat to 80C (176 F)"

I ordered 2 spares to have on hand (bearing house) and have yet to use them on my bike (166k miles) or any of my clients bikes.
This is the first time I've heard of a failure in a long time.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:47 PM   #9
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To remove the bearings:

The hub has to be heated as per OE manual:
"Heat bearing seat to 80C (176 F)"

I ordered 2 spares to have on hand (bearing house) and have yet to use them on my bike (166k miles) or any of my clients bikes.
This is the first time I've heard of a failure in a long time.

Remove the wheel and turn each side with you finger. You should feel if there is an issue. I wonder if the speedo hub is the cause of the squeal. Bearings usually "grumble" when they are failing.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:48 PM   #10
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To remove the bearings:

The hub has to be heated as per OE manual:
"Heat bearing seat to 80C (176 F)"

I ordered 2 spares to have on hand (bearing house) and have yet to use them on my bike (166k miles) or any of my clients bikes.
This is the first time I've heard of a failure in a long time.

Remove the wheel and turn each side with you finger. You should feel if there is an issue. I wonder if the speedo hub is the cause of the squeal. Bearings usually "grumble" when they are failing.
For a bearing to squeal it would have to bone dry and ready to catastrophically fail.
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Old 05-29-2014, 10:01 PM   #11
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you can take any bearing to a bearing specialist. if they are able to successfully cross bearing to their part number. followed by verification both bearings are identical.

then there is no reason why they will not interchange. it's not uncommon to see huge price difference between dealer bearing and generic bearing price.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:16 AM   #12
s1marks OP
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All, thank you very much indeed for the responses.

I will remove the wheel and the nylon drive cog to the speedo, refit the wheel and see if I can still hear that squeel and clicking sound. It would be great to not have to replace the bearings if I can avoid it. When I had the wheel out last weekend, I couldm't notice specific roughness with my fingers, but the bearings were cerainly more stiff than I'd have expected them to be (old grease maybe). My bike is a 2001 with 92K on it.

I think I am going to avoid those Angular contact bearings and look for an alternate deep groove bearing (don't want to find out at speed that what I really needed was a deep groov bearing) thank you for the comments on that.

I'll re-post to this thread once I have this figured out and let everyone know what bearings I used and where I got them from. There are not a lot of posts on ADV about front bearings for these bikes so it's likely not a common issue.

BTW: have been reading the pivot bearings/bushing replacement thread with interest (mine are shot again). It seems like needle bearings of that size maybe available but the tapered bearings as many have already commented aren't possible to find.

Thanks agian S1
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s1marks View Post

BTW: have been reading the pivot bearings/bushing replacement thread with interest (mine are shot again). It seems like needle bearings of that size maybe available but the tapered bearings as many have already commented aren't possible to find.

Thanks agian S1
Properly adjusted to OE spec with an accurate means these bearings last a long time in my experience.
They don't like water tho'
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:16 PM   #14
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Bearings

All bearings have a standard number on them that will cross reference to different manfactures. There are different grades of bearings in the same sizes so buy the higher grade units. I have had excellent results with TRW bearings. Long ago I worked in a shop that sold dirt bikes (Bultaco and KTM) and we never bought factory bearings, we got them from a good bearing supply house. They were better quality for less money......now if you want to go exotic and spend a ton check out ceramic bearings.
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Old 05-30-2014, 01:40 PM   #15
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You will see a code C2 oe C3, C3 is more common. Get same code.

You should also try to get EMQ electric motor quality. Often better.

Last, I would avoid china mfg. They can make good bearings, they just often do not. Not worth it.

Rod
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