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Old 08-08-2010, 04:03 PM   #15931
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dahveed
I think these lights are not very bright when compared to other lights surrounding a street - house lights, cars beyond the bicyclist, etc.
^^^ +1

Not only that, but, rear LED lights have no surface/reflector area. I don't care how bright an LED is, it'll still just be a bright dot in the distance. If one holds a laser pointer in the middle of nowhere, there's no indication as to what it is, even if someone can pick out the red dot in the darkness. There's just no surface area to the brightness, which is why there are regulations as to how large a taillight must be on vehicles.

I once came upon a bicycle traveler at about 2AM. He had 3 rear LED lights going. When I saw the blinking dots, I figured it was a bicycle, but, questioned myself because of the time of night. The average person wouldn't have a clue what the flashing dots were and could potentially hit a cyclist out of shear ignorance. 60mph versus 15mph is a pretty fast closing rate to figure out what the hell those blinking dots are.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:05 PM   #15932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jocflier
If I go to a 11-28 or 11-27, will this help with the hills? Once I lose some more weight, and get better legs under me, I could always go back.

Thanks

Joc
Have you got compact cranks already?
34 or 36t small chainring would probably be more effective.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:09 PM   #15933
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Yes, Sorry. Running a compact up front. Hell, didn't think about changing out the front. Will have to look into it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat0020
Have you got compact cranks already?
34 or 36t small chainring would probably be more effective.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:09 PM   #15934
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jocflier
Gearing question for the hills. Currently I am running a Shimano Ultegra CS6600 cassette 12-25 on my road bike.

If I go to a 11-28 or 11-27, will this help with the hills? Once I lose some more weight, and get better legs under me, I could always go back.


Thanks

Joc
The two extra teeth make a difference, but, not substantial. I did it on my tri bike and it wasn't enough. I ended up going to a compact crank from a 53/39. I've got a 48/34 and 12-27, on my Tricross, and sometimes it's on the verge of not being enough. And, I live in IL; not CA.
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:22 PM   #15935
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Right now, I caught in no mans land. I can turn what I have now, but it would be nice to get in a good workout without killing myself first. Plus being 50+ years young, the old legs are not what they used to be.

Thanks for the tip..

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
The two extra teeth make a difference, but, not substantial. I did it on my tri bike and it wasn't enough. I ended up going to a compact crank from a 53/39. I've got a 48/34 and 12-27, on my Tricross, and sometimes it's on the verge of not being enough. And, I live in IL; not CA.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:33 PM   #15936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius
I dunno about that, but a lot of the people I've read about who've put a motor on their bike basically use it to get rolling from a stand still or going up hill, but the rest of the time they pedal.

Most kits seem to have about a 20 mile limit, so based on your commute you'll still be pedaling at least 10 miles.

Here's A cool thread by an inmate who converted his bike for commuting purposes.
I'm definitely down for pedalling, I just want to pedal there and back. With a lil assistance. Going back is uphill the whole way, and i'm dead tired from the ride to work in the morning, and work, the sun is in my eyes, its hot, etc etc etc
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:35 PM   #15937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neanderthal
I'm definitely down for pedalling, I just want to pedal there and back. With a lil assistance. Going back is uphill the whole way, and i'm dead tired from the ride to work in the morning, and work, the sun is in my eyes, its hot, etc etc etc
Sounds like a good reason to me.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:36 PM   #15938
Dranrab Luap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neanderthal
Saw the most beautiful bike in a bike shop the other day and I went in to take a look at it. Of course it was Italian.

Of course it was a fixie.


I love the clean uncluttered lines of fixies and SS's. It's too damn bad they are hard to pedal up hills.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:05 PM   #15939
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jocflier
Yes, Sorry. Running a compact up front. Hell, didn't think about changing out the front. Will have to look into it.
^^^ Sorry, I missed this post.

A 34T small ring is the lowest you can go on a compact crank. They have a 110mm bolt circle and a 34 is the smallest ring that'll mount to it.

You may consider swapping the rear derailleur to a MTB long-cage. That'll allow you to run the bigger cassettes like a 34T low gear.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:17 PM   #15940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jocflier
Gearing question for the hills. Currently I am running a Shimano Ultegra CS6600 cassette 12-25 on my road bike.

If I go to a 11-28 or 11-27, will this help with the hills? Once I lose some more weight, and get better legs under me, I could always go back.


Thanks

Joc
What chainrings are ya running?

That helps with the equation...

AFA gears, spinning is your friend. Whatever gets you to the point where you can spin (vs mash) is whatcha need to do. Remember: over time hills don't get any easier, just faster.

I have a 12-25 on one wheelset and a 12-25 on another. The racing wheels still have the 12-23 on em, and don't figger on needing them any time soon around here!

If yer runnin 9sp PM me I may have a deal for ya. (I may not. I don't remember what my extra 9sp cassettes are! )

M

edited to add: never mind. I guess that's whatcha get on an 8hr tour of the backside of CO on the MC!
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:18 PM   #15941
Dahveed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
^^^ +1

Not only that, but, rear LED lights have no surface/reflector area. I don't care how bright an LED is, it'll still just be a bright dot in the distance. If one holds a laser pointer in the middle of nowhere, there's no indication as to what it is, even if someone can pick out the red dot in the darkness. There's just no surface area to the brightness, which is why there are regulations as to how large a taillight must be on vehicles.

I once came upon a bicycle traveler at about 2AM. He had 3 rear LED lights going. When I saw the blinking dots, I figured it was a bicycle, but, questioned myself because of the time of night. The average person wouldn't have a clue what the flashing dots were and could potentially hit a cyclist out of shear ignorance. 60mph versus 15mph is a pretty fast closing rate to figure out what the hell those blinking dots are.
Yeah, I've had a few of those closing fast and what's that on the side of the road only to realize it was a cyclist.

On my motorcycle, I personally strive for something that people might mistake as a UFO. I try have enough lights on so that people take notice. If I see people slowing down to try to take a photo, well at least they saw me.
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:19 PM   #15942
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dranrab Luap
I love the clean uncluttered lines of fixies and SS's. It's too damn bad they are hard to pedal up hills.
You'd be surprised whatcha can get up on one. My commute from Alexandria to Fairfax took me over some serious hills every day. I didn't have any problems getting up and over em in my 42x17 combo.

Yeah, I did that small a gear on purpose. Commuting fixie was a fall/winter/early spring thing and I didn't wanna mash big gears.

M
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Old 08-08-2010, 06:23 PM   #15943
Dahveed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut
^^^ Sorry, I missed this post.

A 34T small ring is the lowest you can go on a compact crank. They have a 110mm bolt circle and a 34 is the smallest ring that'll mount to it.

You may consider swapping the rear derailleur to a MTB long-cage. That'll allow you to run the bigger cassettes like a 34T low gear.
This is certainly an option. Your compact cranked bike will likely have a med cage rear derailleur.

Try the 11-27 rear first. It will help some while at the same time you'll be improving even if your weight loss is minor, you'll gain fitness and the hills will become easier.

Also, make sure your chain's in good shape and your brakes aren't rubbing. There's no sense in dropping some cash on gearing if you're wasting effort in other areas.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:09 PM   #15944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zodiac
So I haven't exercised in well over 2 yrs, seriously.

And I eat like a 16 yr old suburban kid, sleep like an air traffic controller, and drink like a sailor.

When I was a kid I was somewhat serious about bicycling, at least from around 13 to 18 yrs. I did club rides for my age group, did a few centuries, and long freestyle tours solo, and with groups. I even rode a Mtn bike when no one knew what they were. Then (as I got more into motorcycling) I went to running for a good 5 yrs. but that faded out as my lower back became worse (from two accidents, one car, one motorcycle),

So I'm thinking of getting back into cycling. I have a very good Klein mountain bike but I find it's not geared for city use (geared too low), and even with the thinnest hybrid tires, it still whirs as I'm moving along.

I'm thinking of getting a decent road bike, but not sure what "type".

I seem to be drawn to the time trial style bike, because of the handlebars/shifter/elbow pads. They seem great for cranking hard, cardio, etc, but they also seem too "trick" with the small wheelbase.

I'd like all you cycle nerds to help me out with advice on bike style, and brand. I hear they're all made in China now anyway, even Cannondale....

Thanks.
i have an orbea, made in spain, not taiwan.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:19 PM   #15945
ImaPoser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMDesertRider
i have an orbea, made in spain, not taiwan.

You posted a reply to the first post, from over four years ago, just to tell us that?
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