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Old 12-22-2010, 02:11 PM   #18421
jet123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oznerol View Post
Me, I'm just too cheap to want to buy a separate pair of shoes for road versus mountain, and too lazy to want to have to adjust cleat positioning on more than one pair of shoes, or carry a long more than one pair of shoes if I go someplace and take both road and mountain bikes.
Me too
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Old 12-22-2010, 02:57 PM   #18422
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Head View Post
Sidi mountian shoes with SPD pedals. I am not a racer, I'm a fat old guy who likes to be comfortable when I walk. I do walk when I ride. Like to go eat, or comfort stations...
Saves money, and space.
I'm with you, on this. I've been wearing road shoes, since I began this crap in '07. When I started seriously riding MTB, I quickly realized the convenience of wearing MTB shoes and recessed cleats. No more looking like a duck walking into a convenience store. One pair of shoes and type of pedals for both bikes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nedster
I think it was you that suggested using plastic grocery bags as a shoe liner. I've been doing that and it's worked a treat! Good wool socks, WalMart baggies, then shoes. If I add my PI toe covers, it's almost too warm (I never see temps below 30 riding here in NorCal). On the advice of my push-bike sensei, I've also been lacing my shoes much looser than before and it's helped a lot too.
Yep, it was me. And, loosening the laces allows better blood flow to the feet. It's taken me a while to figure out all the little stuff, but, this keeps it interesting.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:18 PM   #18423
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I don't agree aboot spd's for the road bike. Maybe if you do short rides it's ok. But the road shoes/cleats spread the contact area, so they are more comfortable doing 100+ mile weeks. If you ride long enough, I bet you will have dedicated gear for the seperate disciplines. I ride Looks and love them on the skinny bike.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:46 PM   #18424
ducnut
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BSA update:

As some of you may remember, I have a '63 BSA basket case. This bike was flair at a restaurant. Someone spray-bombed it flat black and literally screwed it to the wall. The restaurant's new owner gave it to me, instead of tossing it in the dumpster. The only things salvageable were the frame and the seatpost. Everything else was too far gone. What I thought might be of some use to other enthusiasts, I listed on eBay. Afterall, finding 40 year old stuff, that is workable, is really difficult.

Before pics (poor pathetic thing!):







These are "in the works" pictures. I just have it loosely fitted together. I've got to get a couple more things acquired, make adjustments, and do final assembly. It's just beautiful!


This is the part that started the snowball, a NOS seatbolt. I couldn't believe this popped up on eBay. I had to have it! And so it goes.


Setup as a single speed. I'm thinking of putting a fixed cog on it, as it looks so clean with no brakes and cables. Simple FSA crankset.


Nitto's classic moustache bar. Cheap cork grips. I'd really like a set of Brooks grips, but, they're too much money for this bike. The grips are just barely slid onto the bars.


My favorite seat, Brooks B17 Imperial. It's perched atop a common QBP post.


18T freewheel cog.....for now. Origin 8 hubs laced to Sun rims.


BB re-threaded to 24TPI, from 26TPI. This allowed the fitment of a Miche sealed bearing BB. This is a far better setup than stock.


Great looking tires for this bike! I really wanted something that was all gumwall, but, first ride grime caused me to re-think that. Yep, those are 700c stuck into a 26" frame. They work perfect and allow for a standard, mid-50mm brake caliper to be used. With a 26" wheel, one has to use an extra-long reach caliper.


Simple Nitto stem. The steerer has been re-threaded to 24TPI, from 26TPI, to allow the use of a standard Japanese headset. In this case, Tange. This is far superior to using NOS stuff.


The frame and fork were blasted and powdered by Powder Coating Unlimited of Bloomington, IL. Velo Mine is the shop that helped make this bike possible. They have nearly everything on the shelf and the tools and knowledge to make it happen. I can't say enough about their willingness to jump into this project. With this bike being British, there's absolutely nothing standard about it. They figured out what would, wouldn't, or could be made to fit together.

I'm looking forward to cruising it around town, next spring.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:54 PM   #18425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrsddn View Post
I don't agree aboot spd's for the road bike. Maybe if you do short rides it's ok. But the road shoes/cleats spread the contact area, so they are more comfortable doing 100+ mile weeks. If you ride long enough, I bet you will have dedicated gear for the seperate disciplines.
I did three centuries in one week, a few months ago. Does that qualify as riding long enough? My rides are 35 miles, minimum, because that's the out-and-back on the bike trail. Otherwise, I'm off through the country riding wherever.

Area really only matters if you're mashing the pedals, like in a race. When doing long distance, you're "soft pedalling". Do some research on what the tourists use. They almost always run SPD (Shimano M-520), toe clips, or platforms. I prefer Eggbeaters.
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:58 PM   #18426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbrsddn View Post
I don't agree aboot spd's for the road bike. Maybe if you do short rides it's ok. But the road shoes/cleats spread the contact area, so they are more comfortable doing 100+ mile weeks. If you ride long enough, I bet you will have dedicated gear for the seperate disciplines. I ride Looks and love them on the skinny bike.
I think if the sole of the shoe is stiff enough, cleat size isn't so important.

Back when I was using soft rubber-soled MTB shoes, yeah, I'd get hot spots and significant foot pain on rides over 40 miles or so. Got some stiffer-soled shoes, and have had no further foot pains, even on rides lasting 12 hours or more.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:10 PM   #18427
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I didn't mean to start a pedal type vs. bike type debate.

Trying to keep your feet warm trumps style points...hell, some diehards who ride year round (not me) around here commute wearing ski googles!
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:17 PM   #18428
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oznerol View Post
I think if the sole of the shoe is stiff enough, cleat size isn't so important.

Back when I was using soft rubber-soled MTB shoes, yeah, I'd get hot spots and significant foot pain on rides over 40 miles or so. Got some stiffer-soled shoes, and have had no further foot pains, even on rides lasting 12 hours or more.
I'm gonna disagree, my M210s aren't soft by any stretch and I still get hot spots, etc. on my ATACs.

S'why I went with SPD-Sls. (and need a few more pairs!) I have *A* pair of pedals right now, and 2-3 road bikes to ride em on. PITA factor gets real high when ya gotta switch pedals bike-bike-bike-etc.

I say 2-3 'cause the Fetish is boxed and waiting to go to TX. In return, I get my 2002 S-Works back. YAY for S-Workseseses That bike hasta be one of the nicest riding frames I've ever had. All I need now is another parts group. Who's got Red and don't like it?!

M
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:19 PM   #18429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s3hoop View Post
I didn't mean to start a pedal type vs. bike type debate.

Trying to keep your feet warm trumps style points...hell, some diehards who ride year round (not me) around here commute wearing ski googles!
I don't wear ski goggles, but I DO wear Oakley Heater lenses. May as well be ski goggles!


M
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:25 PM   #18430
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Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
All I need now is another parts group. Who's got Red and don't like it?!
That's a joke, right?

How about Ultegra RD, 105 FD, 105 STI?
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:32 PM   #18431
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
That's a joke, right?

How about Ultegra RD, 105 FD, 105 STI?
Nope. I'd settle for Rival tho. Seems to be doing OK on the Roubaix right now. Rear derailleur's getting a little sloppy, but it was crashed on before I got it 3 years ago, and I've been riding it off-and on since.

Best thing about SRAM is that all the shifter internals are the same. Rival thru Red = same guts. Save some $$ and get Rival bits where you can...

The reason I say 'nope' to the Shimano stuff is I don't like the wussy shifting. That 'light action' crap is just that. Gimme a nice, solid 'CHUNK' when I'm shifting. I'd run Campag, but all my wheels are Shimano compatible! That leaves SRAM stuff.

Course, this is ALL personal preference. Run whatcha like, they all shift flawlessly any more.

M
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:38 PM   #18432
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That qualifies as bicycle porn. No doubt. Very nicely done.
That bolt is exactly why I have kept well away from thoughts of restoring the Pinarello. It would cost me a fortune and never be as sexy as your BSA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
BSA update:

As some of you may remember, I have a '63 BSA basket case. This bike was flair at a restaurant. Someone spray-bombed it flat black and literally screwed it to the wall. The restaurant's new owner gave it to me, instead of tossing it in the dumpster. The only things salvageable were the frame and the seatpost. Everything else was too far gone. What I thought might be of some use to other enthusiasts, I listed on eBay. Afterall, finding 40 year old stuff, that is workable, is really difficult.

Before pics (poor pathetic thing!):
These are "in the works" pictures. I just have it loosely fitted together. I've got to get a couple more things acquired, make adjustments, and do final assembly. It's just beautiful!


This is the part that started the snowball, a NOS seatbolt. I couldn't believe this popped up on eBay. I had to have it! And so it goes.


Setup as a single speed. I'm thinking of putting a fixed cog on it, as it looks so clean with no brakes and cables. Simple FSA crankset.


Nitto's classic moustache bar. Cheap cork grips. I'd really like a set of Brooks grips, but, they're too much money for this bike. The grips are just barely slid onto the bars.


My favorite seat, Brooks B17 Imperial. It's perched atop a common QBP post.


18T freewheel cog.....for now. Origin 8 hubs laced to Sun rims.


BB re-threaded to 24TPI, from 26TPI. This allowed the fitment of a Miche sealed bearing BB. This is a far better setup than stock.


Great looking tires for this bike! I really wanted something that was all gumwall, but, first ride grime caused me to re-think that. Yep, those are 700c stuck into a 26" frame. They work perfect and allow for a standard, mid-50mm brake caliper to be used. With a 26" wheel, one has to use an extra-long reach caliper.


Simple Nitto stem. The steerer has been re-threaded to 24TPI, from 26TPI, to allow the use of a standard Japanese headset. In this case, Tange. This is far superior to using NOS stuff.


The frame and fork were blasted and powdered by Powder Coating Unlimited of Bloomington, IL. Velo Mine is the shop that helped make this bike possible. They have nearly everything on the shelf and the tools and knowledge to make it happen. I can't say enough about their willingness to jump into this project. With this bike being British, there's absolutely nothing standard about it. They figured out what would, wouldn't, or could be made to fit together.

I'm looking forward to cruising it around town, next spring.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:44 PM   #18433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gummee! View Post
Nope. I'd settle for Rival tho. Seems to be doing OK on the Roubaix right now. Rear derailleur's getting a little sloppy, but it was crashed on before I got it 3 years ago, and I've been riding it off-and on since.

Best thing about SRAM is that all the shifter internals are the same. Rival thru Red = same guts. Save some $$ and get Rival bits where you can...

The reason I say 'nope' to the Shimano stuff is I don't like the wussy shifting. That 'light action' crap is just that. Gimme a nice, solid 'CHUNK' when I'm shifting. I'd run Campag, but all my wheels are Shimano compatible! That leaves SRAM stuff.

Course, this is ALL personal preference. Run whatcha like, they all shift flawlessly any more.

M
I dont recall seeing what cassettes you are running but I am assuming they are not 10 speed cause I have campy record 10 speed on my road frame and I have no problem running the 10 speed shimano wheelsets on it. The shifting is pretty much the same that way. When I try to run the campy wheelset with the shimano shifters it doesnt work quite as well. I agree with the positive shifting you get with Campy/Sram.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:45 PM   #18434
rbrsddn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
I did three centuries in one week, a few months ago. Does that qualify as riding long enough? My rides are 35 miles, minimum, because that's the out-and-back on the bike trail. Otherwise, I'm off through the country riding wherever.

Area really only matters if you're mashing the pedals, like in a race. When doing long distance, you're "soft pedalling". Do some research on what the tourists use. They almost always run SPD (Shimano M-520), toe clips, or platforms. I prefer Eggbeaters.


Yeah, that qualifies! Whatever works for you is awesome. I keep the mtb stuff on the mtb.
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Old 12-22-2010, 04:45 PM   #18435
Gummee!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikeboy1 View Post
I dont recall seeing what cassettes you are running but I am assuming they are not 10 speed cause I have campy record 10 speed on my road frame and I have no problem running the 10 speed shimano wheelsets on it. The shifting is pretty much the same that way. When I try to run the campy wheelset with the shimano shifters it doesnt work quite as well. I agree with the positive shifting you get with Campy/Sram.
Actually all but 2 wheelsets have S10 on em. Those 2 have S9. I had Sachs New Success in the mid-90s and liked the Campag levers in that group. Mmmmm cher-chunky!

M
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