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Old 04-16-2011, 06:53 PM   #19906
trailer Rails
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
I'm just going to play devil's advocate tonight since it's pouring out here and I'm bored... so bear with me...

How does one do (or train for) a century in central Cali on just flats...?

And you think that mini cog in back is going to suit a person who's just getting into riding, coming off a $99 Target bike?

I'm just trying to help her not make the common mistake (I made it to once with a cyclo X bike so I've done it too) of getting the wrong bike to begin training on, even if it's free.

I'm not saying it can't be converted to suit her, but it's not just a fitting and good to go IMHO. But hey, I've ridden in central Cali and it definitely ain't Nebraska
You are probaly right, I don't know what the terrain is like there.

She should probaly sell it and use the cash to buy a regular road bike. I doubt the people who gave it to her will care, they just wanted to help someone get into a better bike and they will be doing that even if she sells it.
I would have to recomend against dumping a bunch of money into it to convert it to a traditional bike. Just sell as is and move on.
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:56 PM   #19907
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Your lowest gear as it sits is 39:23... on a light bike that isn't that bad of a low gear, but I wouldn't want to be climbing any sort of serious long grade with it unless I was racer-strong.

I looked it up, that ultegra short arm rear derailleur can handle a 33 tooth differential and a 28T rear. with the existing 53-39 front, that means if you did put a 28 rear, (53-X) - (39-28) == 33, X is the smallest high gear allowed, so thats a 9, so the smallest valid 11T is still usable. yes, you can swap the 11-23 cassette for an 11-28 or 12-28 or something and the gearing would be much more suitable for you. you'd need to add some chain links or get a new chain when you do this.

you'll probably never use those 53-11 high gears unless you're hauling ass down a steep hill with a strong tail wind.


I repeat what I said before, you want to swap those tri-bars for conventional road bike drop bars, with conventional road bike brifters (brake+shifters). this likely will need a different length and height stem, this is where the fitting-lite comes into play.
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Old 04-16-2011, 06:59 PM   #19908
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looks like a starter 'tri-bike', for aspiring triathletes, but hey, if it fits, go for it! I'd consider saving those 23mm tires and putting some more cushy 25 or 27mm's on (I just put some 25mm Continental Gator Hardshells' (replace the Gator Skins, supposed to be even tougher) on some wheels for my son's roadbike. but mostly just ride it! a tri seat is pretty brutal, you might one a little bit more relaxed road seat, something like a Specialized Ruby or Jett (both lady specific road saddles).

the mechanical bits on that bike are just fine for anyone but a top level racer. use them til they break. Ultegra/105 derailleurs are just fine IMHO. The next step above that, DuraAce or D/A, is the top of the line obscenely expensive, (and definitely nicer for fast crisp shifts under full power in a race)

Tri-bikes ('multisport') are optimized for solo high speed short course road racing, much like time trial bikes. they are highly aerodynamic, and very short framed, and feature extreme stuff like those elbow-arm rest thingies on the bars (which I'd likely take off as I'd probably never use them). My personal tastes are more towards touring bikes, which have a more relaxed geometry and a longer wheelbase. The most important thing is that it fits you, that you're comfortable riding it on long runs. The important aspects to fit are seat height (adjustable), seat to handlebar length (not so adjustable), and bar height (adjustable over a limited range via swapping the stem). That bike has race gearing (53-39 front, 11-23 10 speed rear), so if you have long steep hills to climb, you're gonna be straining til you build some strength and endurance.


edit: just realized that bike has dedicated tri-bars. Ouch, extremely uncomfortable for anything otherr than dedicated flat out sprinting. Yeah, I'd definitely take those off, and put on conventional touring drop bars. you'll need to swap shifters and brake levers too when you do this, for conventional road bike 'brifters'. you should be able to sell or trade the tri stuff to an aspiring tri-clown.
Thanks for explaining! Need to learn as much as I can.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:02 PM   #19909
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
I'm just thinking more for the training and eventual century goal you have (regarding the hills).

But the best thing you can do for it is change the 23 cog in back to a 28 or something, that fits that chain combo. You'll figure it out fine. After a summer pushing/training you'll definitely get stronger, and when you do, borrow someone's road bike for a jaunt and you'll see if it feels any different/easier.

good luck with it
Do all Centuries have hills?


Thanks for the advice!
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:06 PM   #19910
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Do all Centuries have hills?


Thanks for the advice!
Not the ones in the mid west....

I've only done around 6 of them, and usually they can't help but to have them in areas like yours or mine.

I think spinning is key for new riders, and most Tri or TT bikes aren't geared or shaped to do that.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:08 PM   #19911
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Do all Centuries have hills?


Thanks for the advice!

most do, often big ones. depends on the century, of course. last one I did, way too long ago, was the metric double (200km, 120 miles) Mt Hamilton Challenge, which climbed Mt Hamilton (4200') from Sunnyvale (sea level), then looped up to Livermore and back to Sunnyvale.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:08 PM   #19912
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Y yes, you can swap the 11-23 cassette for an 11-28 or 12-28 or something and the gearing would be much more suitable for you. you'd need to add some chain links or get a new chain when you do this.

I repeat what I said before, you want to swap those tri-bars for conventional road bike drop bars, with conventional road bike brifters (brake+shifters). this likely will need a different length and height stem, this is where the fitting-lite comes into play.

+1, especially the brifters.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:14 PM   #19913
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Originally Posted by VelvtRide View Post
Do all Centuries have hills?
NW Ohio has Hancock Horizontal 100, the only hills are the overpasses

Central Ohio has the Fredericksburg Library Roll, more climbing than the average cyclist can handle
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:29 PM   #19914
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Originally Posted by pierce View Post
I repeat what I said before, you want to swap those tri-bars for conventional road bike drop bars, with conventional road bike brifters (brake+shifters). this likely will need a different length and height stem, this is where the fitting-lite comes into play.
Been thinking about that. I've ridden my two bikes and my Dad's LeMond which has the drop bars with brifters. My comfort bike with it's wider, raised bars are a dream to ride with but the flat bars of my Hybrid are too rough on my shoulders/wrists and I've never felt comfortable with drop bars and found the brifters to be a PITA. I never owned a bike with drop bars and always considered them not for me because I hated the reach to the gears/brakes.

Maybe Tri bars are gonna be good for me? I am constantly putting my elbows on the ends of my bars where the hand grips are while riding, anyway, so this won't be too far from what I find ergonomic.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:32 PM   #19915
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Originally Posted by pierce View Post
most do, often big ones. depends on the century, of course. last one I did, way too long ago, was the metric double (200km, 120 miles) Mt Hamilton Challenge, which climbed Mt Hamilton (4200') from Sunnyvale (sea level), then looped up to Livermore and back to Sunnyvale.
I rode 10 FLAT miles today. Haven't ever ridden 10 FLAT miles and am used to doing 25+ mile rides with little bitty hills. Today's FLAT ride was awesomeness. I coulda went all day in a drone position and whizz the shit outta my legs.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:41 PM   #19916
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Originally Posted by VelvtRide View Post
Been thinking about that. I've ridden my two bikes and my Dad's LeMond which has the drop bars with brifters. My comfort bike with it's wider, raised bars are a dream to ride with but the flat bars of my Hybrid are too rough on my shoulders/wrists and I've never felt comfortable with drop bars and found the brifters to be a PITA. I never owned a bike with drop bars and always considered them not for me because I hated the reach to the gears/brakes.

Maybe Tri bars are gonna be good for me? I am constantly putting my elbows on the ends of my bars where the hand grips are while riding, anyway, so this won't be too far from what I find ergonomic.
I hate to tell you this but the reach to those shifters and brakes is much further on that Tri bike then on a typical compact framed road bike with an upright stem.
The shifters are on the ends of those aero bars, if you take a look at the seat, you'll see how really angled and stretched you'll be on that bike compared to a compact road.

Here's a pic of my "friend" on her compact roadie with short/turned up stem. This is considerably fitted for comfort.



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Old 04-16-2011, 07:44 PM   #19917
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
I hate to tell you this but the reach to those shifters and brakes is much further on that Tri bike then on a typical compact framed road bike with an upright stem.
The shifters are on the ends of those aero bars, if you take a look at the seat, you'll see how really angled and stretched you'll be on that bike compared to a compact road.

Here's a pic of my "friend" on her compact roadie with short/turned up stem. This is considerably fitted for comfort.



Ok. I can totally see how those could work for me! Still, I see that there may be a problem with weight on the wrists, which I could get used too, though because I'd be more upright.

Tell her that I hope my ass looks as good as hers one of these days.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:50 PM   #19918
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Ok. I can totally see how those could work for me! Still, I see that there may be a problem with weight on the wrists, which I could get used too, though because I'd be more upright.

Tell her that I hope my ass looks as good as hers one of these days.
See how much lower her seat is compared to the stem on that bike? Now look at the picture of your Tri bike...it's the opposite. Your seat is way higher and further away from the bars and levers/shifters. It's in the angle and the position of your seat tube.

You'll have much more pressure on your wrists and arms (and more tucked in of course) then you think.

She just went through all this last year, tried everything, she has a hybrid too.

Your best bet is to really try a Tri bike and a Road bike. Most LBS will let you test ride both.

(ps - that cute butt has kept me busy for the last 2 years, trust me.....)
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:54 PM   #19919
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Originally Posted by Zodiac View Post
See how much lower her seat is compared to the stem on that bike? Now look at the picture of your Tri bike...it's the opposite. Your seat is way higher and further away from the bars and levers/shifters. It's in the angle and the position of your seat tube.

You'll have much more pressure on your wrists and arms (and more tucked in of course) then you think.

She just went through all this last year, tried everything, she has a hybrid too.

Your best bet is to really try a Tri bike and a Road bike. Most LBS will let you test ride both.

(ps - that cute butt has kept me busy for the last 2 years, trust me.....)
At least I'm not paying money for it so if it doesn't work, I'm not out anything. I'm narrowing it down, now.

BTW, can't you adjust the seat height?

Lucky girl.
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:58 PM   #19920
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At least I'm not paying money for it so if it doesn't work, I'm not out anything. I'm narrowing it down, now.

Lucky girl.
That's true, ride it for a year, but try other bikes while you do.

Thanks, she's nuts but I'm learning to accept that...
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