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Old 07-14-2006, 08:56 AM   #16
HappyGoLucky
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I think going tubeless is the shit for it to be honest.

i gave two good attempts with mine, but failed both times. or rather - learnt two ways that DONT work. about to give it a try on a third occasion, i bet i get it right this time.
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:17 AM   #17
katoosh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageThumper
So... Given that it's so damn hard to break the bead on these things, does removing that extra, bead supporting, ridge on the rim make it easier?
Maybe I've just been lucky, but I have had 0 problems using the sidestand technique. That is not the hard part of changing a 950 tire, in my experience.

That said, I can absolutely see how milling that safety bead off would facilitate bead breaking. And it doesn't cost you anything but a little time with an angle grinder. There are some good links, as Mouse mentioned. Search "Alabama safety shoes" and I think you'll find it. Pretty funny.

Even though I lust after a sweet set of Woody's wheels featuring a 18X3.5" rear, I still wouldn't buy a new rim for this purpose alone.

Make that "Alabama Safety Boots", and it is called Neduro's Tire Changing Class. First rate post. Follow these instructions to the letter, and you will have very positive results. Another bit of advice gleaned from these pages is to budget 3 hours for the tire change (in the field), and you'll be very happy when it only takes 1 1/2.

katoosh screwed with this post 07-14-2006 at 10:45 AM Reason: content
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:24 AM   #18
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I'm wrong

That link, Neduro's tire changing class, is only on tire changing. Your on your own for the other info.
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Old 07-15-2006, 01:41 PM   #19
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Cheap rim milling

I chucked my rear rim sans tire back on the bike. On the centerstand, in 2nd gear, I easily removed a good portion of the safety bead with just a bastard file, followed up by a smooth file and then progressivley finer sandpaper until I had it mirror smooth. Took about 45 minutes and makes it much easier to get really stiff tires like the 908RR on and of in a jiffy. Still have prob 50% of the bead left. No lube ever needed for on and off tire changing.

The centerstand method works just fine, I can debead and change the tire in pretty quick order, esp when the black flies are out. Rinding on a flat just to break the bead seems like asking for trouble and just plain lazy. Mill the bead off and ride on. Can't take credit for the technique, read about it here.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:51 PM   #20
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i went to botswana recently and had 3 punctures on a deserted 300km stretch of road. up untill then, my tyre changing ability was limited to mountainbikes (though i recon this was good groundwork). i learned pretty quickly how to do it with 2 tyre levers.
i didnt find as difficult to do, as much as i found it a pain in the ass.
tubed tyres suck!
i used to have a quadbike with tubeless wheels. if you get a flat, you plug it in 45seconds max. a tubed tyre fix takes about 45minutes to 2 hours in the bush.
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Old 07-15-2006, 03:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageThumper
So... Given that it's so damn hard to break the bead on these things, does removing that extra, bead supporting, ridge on the rim make it easier?
Yes..but not recco because of the danger in a sudden flat. The pre-2005.5 are the worst, and its just the rear that's a problem. I have an 04 and simply took the tire off and remounted empty rim on the bike. Then I fired her up in 3rd gear like a lathe and used a hand file to grind about 1/4 of the safety bead off all round. It took about a half hour. Then I took a little more off about 6" long on the right side opposite the valve hole and marked the rim. I squirt a little WD40 in there and my bead breaker does the rest. I've never had it flat on the trail, but I practiced alot in my garage. I couldn't do it until I ground off some safety bead. I understand the 2005.5's are easier; about like any street bike to break.
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:27 PM   #22
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Yup, plenty of good advice out there... I agee with Sailah
Quote:
Cheap rim milling
I chucked my rear rim sans tire back on the bike. On the centerstand, in 2nd gear, I easily removed a good portion of the safety bead with just a bastard file, followed up by a smooth file and then progressivley finer sandpaper until I had it mirror smooth. Took about 45 minutes and makes it much easier to get really stiff tires like the 908RR on and of in a jiffy. Still have prob 50% of the bead left. No lube ever needed for on and off tire changing.
If cheap works, then cheap it is Dirtinblood and I (not sure where he got the idea, unless it was his...) we took a 4" belt sander with 80grit paper. Surprisingly it just fits between the beads. Turn on the sander, hold on carefully and sand away. Instead of sanding the entire bead around the rim, we did about a 9-12" section across from the valve stem so we knew where it was. Simple, cheap and effective like Sailah's method - but this had less sweat involved

We followed the 80 grit with some 100-120 by hand just to smooth it out some more that that is it.

Now, when we use the side stand (or centre stand) method we start at the grounded section and it works fine. Once the tire pops under the bead it is simple.

D
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Old 07-15-2006, 11:16 PM   #23
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Thanks!

Valuable insites! I've got a set of '06 rims for Scropions and a set of the older, silver rims for knobbies. I'll chuck up the rear and file off some of that inner bead. I'm figuring I can put it in 6th gear with the throttle taped open and get 'er done in about 38 seconds!
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Old 07-16-2006, 12:25 AM   #24
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After all the horror stories on the subject I just did it the other day.

WTF is the big deal? It was no harder than any other wheel/tire to do!!!!

If you take your time and pay attention to what you're doing it's pretty routine!
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageThumper
Valuable insites! I've got a set of '06 rims for Scropions and a set of the older, silver rims for knobbies. I'll chuck up the rear and file off some of that inner bead. I'm figuring I can put it in 6th gear with the throttle taped open and get 'er done in about 38 seconds!
A video of this will be required for future review.
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc99
After all the horror stories on the subject I just did it the other day.

WTF is the big deal? It was no harder than any other wheel/tire to do!!!!

If you take your time and pay attention to what you're doing it's pretty routine!
That's my boy!

Does this mean I don't have to carry my 5 pounds of bead breaker in Baja this Fall-you're my personal tire changer ?
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageThumper
I'm figuring I can put it in 6th gear with the throttle taped open and get 'er done in about 38 seconds!
More is better!!

This method is fantastic. I'll be spooning a rear next week, and I'll definitely budget an extra hour for this process.
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Old 07-17-2006, 03:11 PM   #28
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I have only had to change one flat, though I have changed 2 sets of tires so far....all were done with just tire levers...and even though I tried the side stand trick I didnt have success. My plan is to just buy one of the bead breaker tools and take it with me on rides.

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Old 07-17-2006, 03:46 PM   #29
VintageThumper
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Do you guys use the bead breaker that looks like a giant bicycle brake? I've only seen them in photos, and have wondered how big, and heavy they are...
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:39 AM   #30
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Think some of these guys are doing bead breaking in air conditioned garages, not in the middle of nowhere bathed in sweat. I could not do it with only levers. Finally remembered the side stand trick which worked perfectly. Had a bunch of instant village helpers though. Never tried it by myself, think it would be a handfull.
Upon returning home first thing I did was to mill off part of the locking bead as per Woody Wheel Works. Did about 8 inches on each side directly across from the valve stem using a router and a wooden jig. Details on this site somewhere with pictures. Very easy to break the bead now using only levers. I have a set of the giant pliers which are called the Tire Wizard I think. Works well in the shop but simply too large and heavy to take on a trip.

Note the plastic bag disc protection device....
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