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Old 07-19-2006, 04:22 PM   #31
ktmnate
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I found my 950 wheel to be absolutly the toughest to break the bead! Once broken, it's like any other tire to change. I couldn't do it with the side stand. I had the weight of the bike balanced on the sidestand which was on the sitting on the sidewall and nothing. That was after I tried on of the bead breakers.

My son took this picture. You can see the centerstand off the ground:




The only way I was able to break it was using a 2"x6"x12' piece of wood with another 4"x4" nailed it it about 2' from one end. I then wedged the plank under my car and the edge of the 4"x4" on the sidewall. The wood was making some cracking sounds before the bead let go. I have since ground some of that bead retainer off. With any luck, it will not be an issue.


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Old 07-19-2006, 06:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmnate



I found that if you just set the sidestand on the very intersection of the outer rim and tire when you attempt to break the bead, it's a bitch as described. I usually try to scoot the foot of the sidestand under the rim, so the most pressure is right on the very edge of the tire/rim interface. Don't know if that description made sense...That and milling down the rim. And careful of the tube. DAMHIK

Still takes bouncing up and down on the sidestand sometimes, not so sure that's the best garage method, but the only one that works in the field. I am a lot more careful to protect the rotor as well at 130 bucks.
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:06 AM   #33
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Well, I've now tried 6 or 7 times to get my tyre off using this method but have failed at each attempt. Like Ktmnate, I have the bike balancing on the front wheel and sidestand with the centre stand off the ground. Sidestand is pushed under the wheel rim so it's as close to the edge of the tyre as possible. Plenty of WD40 squirted in the gap between tyre and rim. Valve removed and valve locknut slack.

I've read all the threads I can find on this but still cannot break the bead. Does anyone have an idea of what I must still be doing wrong?

Unlike some of you here I won't be left stranded 100 miles from the nearest road but I would like to be able to mend my own punctures on the side of the road rather than wait hours for a breakdown truck which probably can only mend tubeless tyres anyway.

On a positive note, I can remove and refit my rear wheel in record time after all this practice!
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:21 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nillbymouth
Well, I've now tried 6 or 7 times to get my tyre off using this method but have failed at each attempt. Like Ktmnate, I have the bike balancing on the front wheel and sidestand with the centre stand off the ground. Sidestand is pushed under the wheel rim so it's as close to the edge of the tyre as possible. Plenty of WD40 squirted in the gap between tyre and rim. Valve removed and valve locknut slack.

I've read all the threads I can find on this but still cannot break the bead. Does anyone have an idea of what I must still be doing wrong?

Unlike some of you here I won't be left stranded 100 miles from the nearest road but I would like to be able to mend my own punctures on the side of the road rather than wait hours for a breakdown truck which probably can only mend tubeless tyres anyway.

On a positive note, I can remove and refit my rear wheel in record time after all this practice!
Try WD40: I have not done the sidestand trick. Instead I ground some of the safety bead off as discribed earlier. Then I use a bead breaker tool and still struggled. The tool guy told me to squirt some WD40 in there where I was prying and ...whoooooosh....came clean. I think WD40 penetrates somehow. Now I carry a mini can of WD40 to clean my chain and squirt my bead if fixing a flat. Test it in your garage first, though.... -P
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:36 PM   #35
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Let me echo Pantah's response. I did my first rear tire change on the 950 last week. After removing the valve core from the tube, I slipped a tire iron between the edge of the rim & the tire bead & opened a gap. Rather than WD40, I brushed in some RuGlyde tire lube (available from Napa). I did this at several points all around the tire.

Before resorting to the sidestand trick, I took a Bead Popper (a plastic oversized chisel available from place like Aerostich) & gave it a few good whacks with a hammer between the tire & the rim. Much to my delight, the bead broke loose immediately.

Not only was I thrilled with the ease of breaking the bead, but knowing that I can easily pack the Bead Popper on the bike was a bonus.
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:52 PM   #36
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other suggestions.....

I believe that Woody will grind off or grind down the bead for a nominal amount.

If you're gonna do the sidestand trick, make sure you do what Nate did - tie off the centerstand to the front wheel to keep it from folding under. If that bad boy falls when the stand folds, it's gonna give you fits.

I carry an old shower curtain with me on all trips. They're damn tough and will keep the dirt out of your wheels. It's also handy for wrapping up tire irons. Added weight is nothing.
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Old 08-07-2006, 08:48 PM   #37
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i can tell you have NEVER changed a 950 rear tire!!!!

just read this funny quote,,,i'll try and dissect it,,,


Quote:
Originally Posted by idahoskiguy
The tires on the 950 are no harder to change than any other stuff walled off road tire on any other bike,
they are not easy.

you're right,,,they are HARDER!!!!

If you have not done this in the past get someone to show you how and have the correct tools.

i'm ALL ears,,as well as alot of the rest of us

It is something you should know how it do, and practice will give you the confidence to perform the task in the field, should the need arise.

Good Luck.
like i said we are ALL ears

BTW,,,at WWW we modify the bead 4-5 inches at the valve stem,,,not that it matters,,,as long as YOU know where it was modified,,,i believe this is a win -win scenario,,,opitimal tire retention with a built in bead-breaking spot

we only remove the full bead for racers doing enduros who are more concerned with getting the tires fixed ASAP,,,and/or riders who demand it

the larger safety bead on these big bikes DOESADD a measure of incresaed insurance of having the tire break off the bead,,,i've read and heard of accounts of riders going many miles on flats allbeit at reduced speeds...so there is something to be said for BIG FAT safety beads,,,til ya try to change the tube that is
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:43 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k7
I believe that Woody will grind off or grind down the bead for a nominal amount.

If you're gonna do the sidestand trick, make sure you do what Nate did - tie off the centerstand to the front wheel to keep it from folding under. If that bad boy falls when the stand folds, it's gonna give you fits.

I carry an old shower curtain with me on all trips. They're damn tough and will keep the dirt out of your wheels. It's also handy for wrapping up tire irons. Added weight is nothing.

That's a great idea! I'm going to have to explain to my wife that K7 said to use the shower curtain


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Old 08-07-2006, 11:20 PM   #39
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One evening last year I helped Jimmy Lewis prep 40 wheel sets for the HP2 for the 1000. It took about 2 hours, and Jimmy schooled me on the proper way to swap Karoos. Basically no work stand, hold the wheel upright between your knees, only use 2 small irons (6" aluminum) and make sure the tire bead stays in the relief. All said, took about 2 minutes for him to mount the tire, which included 2 rim locks. It still takes me 10...

He said if you need bigger irons, you're not keeping the bead all the ways in the relief.
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:51 AM   #40
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Pics please!
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:17 AM   #41
Nillbymouth
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Thanks for all the responses.

First of all ,to answer the safety issue, Yes, I use two straps to tie each side of the centre stand to the front wheel.

Woody grinding the bead. Great idea except I'm in Scotland. Regardless off the shipping costs, I'd be without my bike for quite a while. As Woody says, the bead is that large for a reason so I'd rather perfect getting the tyre off the rim as it is rather than reduce the safety of the rim - having the option of riding the last 40 miles home instead of fixing a puncture on the road does appeal to me. It has been suggested in this thread that pre 2005.5 bikes have a larger bead. My bike is an 04.

I've tried using WD40 but maybe not correctly. I would place the wheel under the sidestand and where the stand is pressing down on the tyre I'd squirt some WD40 between the rim and tyre. Maybe it cannot penetrate between the tyre and bead. Maybe I should try and squirt some in using a tyre lever before putting the wheel under the stand. That way it should get between the tyre and bead. I'll try again in the next couple of days and report back.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:46 AM   #42
ktmnate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nillbymouth
Thanks for all the responses.

First of all ,to answer the safety issue, Yes, I use two straps to tie each side of the centre stand to the front wheel.

Woody grinding the bead. Great idea except I'm in Scotland. Regardless off the shipping costs, I'd be without my bike for quite a while. As Woody says, the bead is that large for a reason so I'd rather perfect getting the tyre off the rim as it is rather than reduce the safety of the rim - having the option of riding the last 40 miles home instead of fixing a puncture on the road does appeal to me. It has been suggested in this thread that pre 2005.5 bikes have a larger bead. My bike is an 04.

I've tried using WD40 but maybe not correctly. I would place the wheel under the sidestand and where the stand is pressing down on the tyre I'd squirt some WD40 between the rim and tyre. Maybe it cannot penetrate between the tyre and bead. Maybe I should try and squirt some in using a tyre lever before putting the wheel under the stand. That way it should get between the tyre and bead. I'll try again in the next couple of days and report back.

I have tried the wd-40 while doing all the other things (side stand and bead breaker) and it still didn't work! I don't think you are doing anything wrong with the WD. It's just one tough bead to break.


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Old 08-08-2006, 07:03 AM   #43
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hey ,i'll post some pics

nillbymouth,,,i've shared with you and everyone what,where, how and why we modify those rims,,,,

remember the whole point of this conversation is coming up with a BETTER way.... a win win scenario where we maximize the benefits of that big safety bead AND minimize our chances of getting a heart attack or tire dimount rage

ya don't have to send em to me,,,do it yourself

the quickest way we use is with an air powered angle grinder sporting a coarse/brown Scotch-brite pad to get the majority of the material off and give it a good shape,,,we follow up with the red/medium grit disc for a nice smooth finish

how ya get the material off depends on your resources,,a plain old file and elbow grease always works in a pinch,,,cave men used stones

i'll get some pics hopefully today
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woody's wheel works screwed with this post 08-08-2006 at 07:08 AM
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:13 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmnate
That's a great idea! I'm going to have to explain to my wife that K7 said to use the shower curtain
True story .... years ago, I used to do the Mojave Trail yearly - sometimes twice a year. I've done that trip on the motorcycle, a Land Rover Discovery and a Land Rover Series III.

One year, my buddy and I had a couple of Brazilian cuties with us. I married one of the cuties btw. This is about a 2.5 days trip w/ 2 nights on the trail and due to the women, we decided to rig up a shower that was fastened to the top of my roof rack on one side of the truck.

The girls knew we'd have a shower and ... a shower curtain. We got them busy doing something else while we rigged up the shower. The frame for the curtain was a simple pvc frame - nothing fancy. The bottom of the shower was the lid from a container. The shower curtain was clear, see-through plastic.

We got it set up, got our chairs set up facing it and then called them around to see our creation. You should have seen their faces when they saw the clear shower curtain.

Of course, we did swap it for one that wasn't see-through but the look on their face was worth every penny for the extra curtain.
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:35 AM   #45
ktmnate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k7
True story .... years ago, I used to do the Mojave Trail yearly - sometimes twice a year. I've done that trip on the motorcycle, a Land Rover Discovery and a Land Rover Series III.

One year, my buddy and I had a couple of Brazilian cuties with us. I married one of the cuties btw. This is about a 2.5 days trip w/ 2 nights on the trail and due to the women, we decided to rig up a shower that was fastened to the top of my roof rack on one side of the truck.

The girls knew we'd have a shower and ... a shower curtain. We got them busy doing something else while we rigged up the shower. The frame for the curtain was a simple pvc frame - nothing fancy. The bottom of the shower was the lid from a container. The shower curtain was clear, see-through plastic.

We got it set up, got our chairs set up facing it and then called them around to see our creation. You should have seen their faces when they saw the clear shower curtain.

Of course, we did swap it for one that wasn't see-through but the look on their face was worth every penny for the extra curtain.
Now that's a great story! Thanks.


About the wheel. I ground down some of the bead holder (~8") and will be testing it out shortly. I will post with the results. Once I have the bead broken, the tire is just like any other tire.


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