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Old 09-08-2006, 10:29 AM   #61
ktmnate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k7
Cool - thanks. I've got a new rear tire to mount before Creel so I'll try and grind mine down once I have the old tire off. Last time, I used a couple of 2x4's and a PT Cruiser to leverage the bead off. That's pretty simple too but I can't carry a 6' length of 2x4, a 1' piece and a PT Cruiser when I travel.
I once used an SUV, 2"x6"x10' and all 220#'s of my weight to break the bead. All this while two of my son's are standing on the wheel. The neighbors thought I was trying to lift the SUV


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Old 09-08-2006, 12:49 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmnate
I once used an SUV, 2"x6"x10' and all 220#'s of my weight to break the bead. All this while two of my son's are standing on the wheel. The neighbors thought I was trying to lift the SUV


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Yep...it's funny how much I can rock a PT doing this drill.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:06 PM   #63
Flash412
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Brains and Better Living Through Chemistry

Here is a method for breaking the BADDEST bead that requires nothing other than tire irons and chemistry. This method is very simple. It requires very little strength. It requires no heavy bead breakers or SUVs. It uses brain power (something that is apparently sorely lacking in this forum) rather than might. Try it.

Go to your local REAL cage bits place like NAPA or CarQuest or something like that, NOT Kragens or Checker or Autozone. Buy some TIRE MOUNTING LUBRICANT. A gallon will last you a lifetime and should cost between $10 - $20. Pour a little bit into a 2 oz. or four oz. bottle, preferably with a squirt top. An old travel-size contact lens solution bottle works great for this. I got a gallon of Ru-Glyde for $12 a few years back at NAPA.

1) Lay the wheel on its side on the ground or a tarp or your riding jacket.
2) Squirt some Ru-Glyde (or equiv) around the circumference where the tire meets the rim.
3) Stick a tire iron in between the tire and rim. Press the tire iron down so that the fluid can get in there a little deeper.
4) Stick another tire iron between the tire and rim, about three or four inches from the first one. Maintain pressure on the first one while you press the second.
5) Remove the first one and repeat step four above as if the second was the first.
6) After you have gone once around the wheel, add more lubricant.
7) Repeat steps one (1) through five (5) above, two or three times.
8) When bead is free, if you plan to replace the tire, turn the wheel over and repeat for the other bead.

Think about it... all you will need to carry to fix a flat in a tube is a set of tire irons, a tiny squirt bottle and some patches. In the boonies, you won't have to wait for some cell phone yakking soccer mom to come along in her SUV to help you change your tire.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:13 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash412
... you won't have to wait for some cell phone yakking soccer mom to come along in her SUV to help you change your tire.
Dude, weren't you listening?
All it takes is a PT Cruiser, not a whole SUV.



But yeah, real tire lube truly does work better than ersatz stuff.
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Old 09-08-2006, 02:09 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash412

Think about it... all you will need to carry to fix a flat in a tube is a set of tire irons, a tiny squirt bottle and some patches. In the boonies, you won't have to wait for some cell phone yakking soccer mom to come along in her SUV to help you change your tire.

Flash - we're talking about a 950 here in most of these posts. The rims have an extra high rim bead as Woody will attest.

By comparison, when I changed out a tube on my last bike, breaking the bead on the rear literally took stepping on it.

I can break the bead with the 2x4 and I've done with the sidestand and I'll to make it even easier by sanding down the bead to something more reasonable.
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Old 09-08-2006, 02:16 PM   #66
ktmnate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k7
Flash - we're talking about a 950 here in most of these posts. The rims have an extra high rim bead as Woody will attest.

By comparison, when I changed out a tube on my last bike, breaking the bead on the rear literally took stepping on it.

I can break the bead with the 2x4 and I've done with the sidestand and I'll to make it even easier by sanding down the bead to something more reasonable.
What he said. I actually tried lube and it wouldn't go. I tried lube with a bead breaker and it still wouldn't go. It wasn't prety. My 640/620 even my BMW R100gs and R1100GS tubeless could be broken with a side stand. But not the 950


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Old 09-08-2006, 02:53 PM   #67
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All I know is that I BROKE one of those cast bead breakers trying to remove a rear tire from an F650 that had been in a bit of a fire. It was re-vulcanized and VERY hard. What worked for me in the end is what I posted.

I've probably changed hundreds of tires by hand in my motorcycling career so far. Granted, I've never changed tires on a KTM. But the F650 rear is a guaranteed bitch and a half without Ru-Glyde. Before the F650, all I EVER needed to break a bead on a tube-type tire was my boot heels.

Four rear wheel F650 flats in a day convinced me that Ru-Glyde is my friend and I need nothing but tire irons and Ru-Glyde.

YLMV.
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Old 09-08-2006, 02:59 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash412
All I know is that I BROKE one of those cast bead breakers trying to remove a rear tire from an F650 that had been in a bit of a fire. It was re-vulcanized and VERY hard. What worked for me in the end is what I posted.

I've probably changed hundreds of tires by hand in my motorcycling career so far. Granted, I've never changed tires on a KTM. But the F650 rear is a guaranteed bitch and a half without Ru-Glyde. Before the F650, all I EVER needed to break a bead on a tube-type tire was my boot heels.

Four rear wheel F650 flats in a day convinced me that Ru-Glyde is my friend and I need nothing but tire irons and Ru-Glyde.

YLMV.
Well, since my last bike was an F650 - btdt - and it was a piece of cake compared to the 950. Literally.
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:21 PM   #69
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I've attempted most other ways with failure, but this is how I do mine successfully every time within a minute.
Name:  Bead Break2.jpg
Views: 345
Size:  95.3 KB

Use a 6 inch G clamp and a small piece of timber(the timber in the picture is long just so it could be seen for photo). Wind up till bead breaks then rip tyre off as per norm.
No mods to rims and very quick and the clamp is small enough to take on trips.
There is a thread on this but I couldn't find it again.

Happy bead breaking
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:44 PM   #70
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Found that thread here it is

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...75#post3202575
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:57 PM   #71
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Well, since I have a big 6"........





clamp.... I'll give this a try. If it fails, I'll use the car/2x4 again and then mill down the rim.

Nothing to lose 'eh?
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:38 PM   #72
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Bead breaking

I've just purched a 950 non S for a trip to southern Argentina this winter
and had Woody's lace up a set of 19/17 rims for better tire choice.
He's mills the inner bead flat about 5 or six inches on either side of the
valve hole to ease breaking down the bead. This looks to be a workable solution, which Woody recomended. On my other 950 an '04 S
it was imposible to break the rear stock setup. I rode a rear flat 40 miles out of the Idaho back country and it never broke. You could mill the bead off the
stock rims but you would still have the weak stock rims. Better to have some
Sun or Excels laced up. I've got 25,000 miles of hard riding on my '04 S
with Sun rims with no problems and they break down without to much
effort. I had 7 flats on a recient Baja trip,4 in one day so i have a lot of
practice!

GO!!!!!!! MAX
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Old 09-13-2006, 05:49 AM   #73
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I have a tyre changing ring which has a bead braker on it and changing tyres on our MX and EXC's is very straight forward......however......haven't attempted to change the tyres on the 990 yet.

Will 990 tyres be harder to change than EXC and SX Enduro/MX tyres?
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Old 09-13-2006, 06:08 AM   #74
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You betcha ass they will!!

Seriously i aint got a frickin clue but if what is being said on here is anything to go by....be afraid.....be very afraid!!
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:15 AM   #75
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Blue

Lots of serious advice on here, think i'll do my usual get the f###in wheel off and attack it with plenty of gusto....if it goes titz up i'll have to take it to the tyre shop!
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