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Old 07-21-2006, 10:29 PM   #1
MK_GS OP
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What do you use to drill out a broken EZ Out?

Bought a used GS, Corbin seats. The cap head allen bolt that holds the backrest in the seat was stripped out and frozen in place when I got it.

I soaked it w/ penetrating oil, drilled it, put in an EZ out, and the EZ out snapped off flush with the bottom of the allen socket in the head.

4 brand new titanium drill bits have met their maker trying to re-drill the bolt. Is nothing harder than EZ-out? I've been drilling slow w/ oil on the bit. Nothing works.

There's no way to grasp the head. It's recessed in foam, and rounded off (BRILLIANT!).

All I can figure is find somebody w/ a stick welder, lay a nut on top of it, and use a thin electrode to weld it to the bolt at the inside of the nut hole.

It's only a 1/4-20 bolt, so that's a SMALL electrode.

I also am "friend with welder"-less.




Anybody got a miracle idea for me?
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:04 PM   #2
Hay Ewe
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yeah, I know that feeling but when it happened to me I was at work so got paid the time to get it out

I used to use a really high speed windy (drill) with a grinding tip on it that is smaller than the hole. go in, grind it down untill the ezi-out is not gripped onto the hole, and then pull it out with a storng magnet or thin wire.

sounds difficult but by the sounds of it you have the seat of so can manipulate it to make it wasy to work.

these days I have a cheap dremel like tool, electric powered and cheap as chips, the Dremal was AUS$200 and the one I got was AU$80. just as good I reakon.

Hay Ewe
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:05 PM   #3
toolfan
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Dude, I live in Portland, and I'm leaving for Alaska tomorrow morning, but I've got a mig welder in my garage that I could help you out with.

(mig welders are wire feed, I recently welded a nail to broken bolt on a friends bike and that worked well...)

Anyways, what you should do is find someone with a mig welder.

If you can wait until the 31st I'll help you.

if it's only recessed in foam - couldn't you trim some away then hit it with vise grips and replace the missing foam with spray foam or something?
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:05 PM   #4
GreaseMonkey
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Better you than me pal! Those things can be quite the pain.

Use a small center punch to break the EZ out up, not only are they hard but they are brittle too and will bust up easily with a properly ground punch. You can also use a dental burr on a dremel tool to hollow them out, then break them up.

When you have the EZ Out busted and out of there, take a 3/16 drill bit and drill all the way through the frigging bolt, then follow up with a 1/4" bit until the head of the bolt comes off. Remember to use oil when drilling this stuff, but I'm sure you're familiar with proper technique.

If you can do this in a drill press, that would be my recommendation.

Anyway, once the head is drilled off the bolt and you have a 3/16 hole in it, use a punch or a nail set to collapse the wall of the drilled out bolt, then push it into the hole. Hopefully the tube is open so you can shake it outta there.

GreaseMonkey screwed with this post 07-21-2006 at 11:23 PM
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:13 PM   #5
2dumbnotto
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I use left hand drill bits with excelent results. They are hard to find sometimes and people might think your pulling their chain but they are very real and work well.
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:49 PM   #6
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Wow you guys are fast...

Hay ewe- It's hard to see where hte hell the bolt ends and the EZ out begins now. I think I've screwed it up beyond your technique. I also killed a couple Dremel bits on it already. I'm fast approaching the cost of another damn backrest even at Corbin prices.

BTW, the bolt is recessed in riveted on leather, some hard plasticky stuff, metal, AND foam... I wasn't clear enough before. It's like an inch into the back of the seat.

The small diameter and the funky angle also make it prime for busting off drillbits.

Greasemonkey- I tried center punching it to help the drill bits cut.... flattened out the point on my damn center punch. I'm almost wondering if the EZ out wasn't heat treated wrong- resulting in really goddamn hard and extra brittle metal... Anyhow, it's not going to break up. As mentioned, it's hard to see where the hell it even is.

2 dumbnotto - I don't see how a lefty bit that won't cut and goes dull is going to solve this. If I could find something to drill into the bit, I'd just stick my new #2 EZ-OUT in there and pull the bastard out. Problem is she won't drill.



Toolfan, I might just be hollering at you in a couple of weeks... w/ the right welder it might be a cinch. I'm trying to get this out so I can put the wife's backrest on my seat and take a trip one up where I figure I might like that backrest but that's not until mid August. I appreciate the offer. Have a safe trip.


Tomorrow I'm going to try getting the head drilled off it and see if I can't see better or maybe even grind the nub that's left into an approximation of a hex and get a socket on it...

I can't cut a groove in it without also "grooving" the leather around the hole.

MK_GS screwed with this post 07-21-2006 at 11:54 PM
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:00 AM   #7
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From your description, I'm thinking patience and a small grinding stone in the Dremel is the way to go. It takes time, but it will work. Been there, done that. A decent EZ-out is really tough to drill.

all the best,

Mike
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:26 AM   #8
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I'm gonna chuck it in the river....

Head's all the way off the bolt. What's left is flush with the piece it's threaded into, but that's recessed in an oval hole in a piece of 1/8" thick steel.

I don't have anything in my arsenal that will cut into that damn EZ out and the surface of what's left is lumpy.

Just ruined a carbide burr on the Dremel. I ruined a little stone yesterday.



Anyone got a spare EDM rig?




I'm going to bed. What a fucking mess.
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Old 07-22-2006, 01:54 AM   #9
JRP
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I've had good luck drilling out broken taps with a straight flute carbide drill. The taps are at least as hard as the EZ out. You can drill it completly out with a .250" drill bit and HeliCoil it.
Good luck
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:36 AM   #10
eaglemike
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Home Depot or Harbor Freight has small stones. It's important to use light pressure. If too much pressure is used, the stone breaks or wears quickly intead of cutting. I learned that the hard way a long time ago.....

all the best, and good luck!

Mike
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:06 AM   #11
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Well, let me know. I almost invited you over this morning, but I didn't start packing until I woke up...

I don't think a welder is going to be the best solution though - welding creates heat, and heat will be bad for th foam/seat cover/etc.

Lot's of good ideas here... for me, a picture might help because I'm having a little trouble understanding where this bolt is hand how it's broken...
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dumbnotto
I use left hand drill bits with excelent results. They are hard to find sometimes and people might think your pulling their chain but they are very real and work well.

but not cheap either.
my set at work has five drills and was $50+ bucks from Cornwall.
Snapon, Mac, Cornwall. all the good tool venders will have them.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:29 AM   #13
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I'd say ... carbide drill bit, lots of lubricant, low speed, high pressure.

Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:45 AM   #14
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Not much will put a dent into a good easy out, they are hardened. Hammering it with a punch only makes it sit in there tighter and will never allow it out. Trying to break it in situ won't work as there isn't anyway for it to expand so it will have somewhere to break out to. When I worked at the dealership, exhaust studs would break on the cars all the time, usually the last one on the rear cylinder. Probably due to heat and the turbo vibration. We've broken many ez outs. The key to not breaking them is to know when applying too much force and the broken stud/bolt won't budge, you will break the ez out. Best thing is to drill the center hole out as large as you can, to get the biggest ez out in there, as it will be stronger. I used the taper ones so you could back them out if the bolt won't move. Once broken, one of the things we used to do was to drill out around the ez out with COLBALT drill bits. This would relieve the pressure around it and then use a small chisel to break the ez out. Then heli-coil or install a nutsert and be done with it. If that doesn't work, the only thing to do is to bring it somewhere where they have a lazer cutter. We used a guy near San Francisco and he removed ones the regular machine shop could not.

good luck.
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Old 07-22-2006, 11:54 AM   #15
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Thanks everyone.

Toolfan, now that the head's off I can see better, and man this thing is down in a hole. Welder won't save it.

I've learned by trial what somebody said- there is no way to bust up the EZ out since it can't expand.

I nibbled around it with small holes leaving it high and busted the top off.

Now I have to do that again. I figure I've got a sliver of EZ out left, but it just won't cut. I keep dulling bits, re-sharpening them, dulling punches, re-pointing them....

The left handed bits might be great prior to EZ out bust-off, but using one now would just screw the nub of EZ out into the old bolt harder. If I could get that out of the way I could just drill a new hole, even if oversized, and just tap the new hole.

I've been wailing on it so much it's hard to even tell where the bolt ends and the material around it begins.

I am Ahab. This bolt is a white whale....
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