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Old 04-23-2009, 10:05 AM   #16
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper
Hey Meat,

I think they are fine to use, as long as the user realizes that the cleaner and better lubed the spoke/nipple threads are, the more accurate the wrench will be.
56 in.lbs. can be 56 in.lbs. of actual torque value applied spoke tension... or it can be 18 in.lbs. of torque and 38 in.lbs. of corrosion, or thread damage induced resistance.
This is why professional wheel builders will use oil, grease or "spoke thread lube" when they build a wheel... to get a smooth, true feel.

On an assembled wheel, for the home maintenance guy who wants to really do it right but doesn't have years of wheel truing experience under his belt, a dab of penetrating oil, maybe turning the nipples in and out a bit to get the oil into the threads... then use the wrench... that would be the most accurate use of a spoke torque wrench I think.
Even better if you do your own tire changes... 'cause then you can get really sloppy with the spoke lube and not worry about the excess getting into the wheel, tire and tube "sealed area".

C
i think this is your best home method. you would still follow the skip so many spokes method and then using this extended method w/ a torque wrench would yield a properly torqued wheel.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:13 AM   #17
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MaverickAus:

According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge, 10 gauge would be approximately 2.588mm diameter wire, and as M5 (male) threads need to be cut on 5mm diameter pieces, I don't think the G refers to the gauge of the wire.

Meat:

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try that next.

Eakins:

Woody's Wheel Works is not so conveniently located from my point of view. Shipping across the pond is a pain. (Edit: As the OP was 3 years ago...)


Cheers,

Tseta

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Old 04-23-2009, 10:25 AM   #18
eakins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta
MaverickAus:

According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge, 10 gauge would be approximately 2.588mm diameter wire, and as M5 (male) threads need to be cut on 5mm diameter pieces, I don't think the G refers to the gauge of the wire.

Meat:

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try that next.

Eakins:

Woody's Wheel Works is not so conveniently located from my point of view. Shipping across the pond is a pain.


Cheers,

Tseta
that recomendation was meant for the OP as he's on colorado.
i'd get yourself some tools and go it at on your own.
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Old 04-23-2009, 10:36 AM   #19
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thanks for the info!!!
I need to do some work to my rear wheel...

firstworks
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:48 PM   #20
eakins
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how about spoke prep with tires still on the wheel?
is this possible. can i lift the bike, deflate the tubes and then do the work: pentrate, lossen, torque? will the spoke nipples cut into the rim strips???
thanks
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Old 05-01-2009, 01:43 PM   #21
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anyone?
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:34 AM   #22
bmwktmbill
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Tseta,
I carried spokes around the world and never needed them. Rode some very rough stuff in Russia and the Gobi desert. I'd worry more about blowing up your rear shock but you never know. I used a Motion Pro spoke wrench and checked the spoke tension every 1k miles and kept 20 psi in the tires. I had no issues with my 02 640a. Money spent on suspension and good tires with plenty of air will protect your wheels. I used knobbies. I think they help with shock absorption.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...FQEhDQodkGE69A

bill
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:37 AM   #23
LILBIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins
how about spoke prep with tires still on the wheel?
is this possible. can i lift the bike, deflate the tubes and then do the work: pentrate, lossen, torque? will the spoke nipples cut into the rim strips???
thanks
It'll help to get lube into the first few threads but you'll be forever doing it. To take the nipples all the way loose way well rip the rim strip. KTMs often have a hard nylon looking strip and it's not very flexible.

I was scared of my first one too but i just removed each nipple from the inside and reassembled with anti sieze on the threads. Trueing the rim afterwards was not really hard but was time consuming. The second was half the time. I can't explain why as it's a tedious job but i seem to enjoy doing it.
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Old 05-02-2009, 05:48 AM   #24
Hair
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creeper

[*]Three, virgins will start to "chase" the tone and loose track of what's been tightened and what hasn't. If they aren't careful, they can "chase" a wheel right out of true.


C
For a second there I thought that this might turn into a great story.

Like Three Virgins walk into a bar.

But no, It's nothing but spoke talk.
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Old 05-02-2009, 09:45 PM   #25
bmwktmbill
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tseta,
Here's a couple of pics of my wheels, shows the KTM spoke brace kit and the spoke tie kit at the crosses. Front and rear wheels are shown

It is my opinion that most of the wheel problems that KTM suffered were on the front wheel from hard braking on paved roads, the front brake(s) are just too good...and not from off road riding unless smething is struck and the wheel is bent...and the spokes aren't tightened after the hit.
FWIW.
bill



Note the valve stem pller and the third hand attachment in this photo.


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