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Old 04-14-2010, 04:53 AM   #31
Truckin_Thumper
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Location: Houston,TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMURF
@ seikkailu, did you manage do change the seal behind the shifter on that small shaft,
how did you put a new one ?
I have R&R'd both of the seals.

when installing the seal on the case, go slow, do not get in a rush.
if ya got a deep well socket, that works. If not something similar.

I aint tellin' ya how I did mine, you'll prolly fook yers up doin' it that way
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Old 06-30-2010, 04:17 PM   #32
mxchamp
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Question Help!

Is this thread still alive? Anybody here that can help?

Need the special tools to do the job right!

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:22 PM   #33
Carl_Mega
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Was going to resurrect this thread too (since it showed up in the Adventure Owners thread)...Anyway, I don't think I can help you since I'm likely in the same boat and this will be my first repair attempt.

I know my V seal is a touch mangled. Earlier this year, I had a terrible time taking the shift lever off and the V seal was a bit of a causality (had a slight leak even back then). Currently, it barely leaks oil from this area but it does develop a few drips here and there. It sounds like you may be able literally stop the bleeding and prevent further damage to the #9 seal, so I'm glad to have read this thread and possibly save myself a larger problem. Off I go to get a new V seal and silicon spray.

Doesn't really help you but I will post my results on the "last chance" clean-up!

I’ll end with a question: Has anyone actually developed a leak that was catastrophic and couldn't be addressed without splitting the cases?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxchamp
Is this thread still alive? Anybody here that can help?

Need the special tools to do the job right!

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:08 PM   #34
mxchamp
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Cool2 Oil leak

I have a brand new V seal installed. Going to take the bike to the KTM dealer Tuesday or Wednesday.

Will let you know how it turns out.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:33 AM   #35
IamTRooPeR
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my mechanic did the "hard work", he has a custom made special tool and it only takes 5 minutes for him. He knows the LC4 engine inside-out.
He told me the orginial V-shaft was put on the wrong way, and he said , he saw this often, yes even from the factory with a new bike.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:57 AM   #36
Happe
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Sorry for the long absence.
Was busy renovating the old house.

The leak is quite comon and usually a reason to split the Engine case.

But I usually just stuff two new o-rings in the gap and use a new V-Seal.
Is holding on my Rally now for 20K.
10K more than the original solution.
Takes 5 minutes and can be done by even the clumsiest of BMW riders

cu
Stefan
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:57 PM   #37
IamTRooPeR
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i have been riding more than 10k with the shaft seal. no problems found.

last work done: FCR installed, valves checked,
been riding for 500km, everything OK and good power with the new FCR.

today, riding with 130kmh and suddenly: blocked rear wheel in fifth gear.
I hurried for the clutch so I got safe to the side of the highway.

Tried to start the engine again and I heard some very bad noises from the top engine (like valves? waterpump? ...)

I took the bike home in my van, and checked some things:
- a little less coolant than normal
- spark plug looks good (light brown)
- took the spark plug out , but I couldnt turn the rear wheel by hand ???
- I saw some little oil on the seal of the kickstarter

Is this a blocked transmission case?

I think this might look bad.
What is the consequence of oil on the kickstarter?
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:20 PM   #38
Queen of Spades
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Old 05-01-2015, 06:28 PM   #39
engineman
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So I had the same problem as everyone else on this thread. The seal between the shift shaft and the kickstarter shaft was leaking. Eventually it got too bad to ignore so I had to do something.

First things first, removed the shifter, kickstarter and footpeg to gain access to the shaft



Next thing was to come up with a tool to pull the old seal. I love making special tools. Made this from a jigsaw blade. Its high quality steel, already pretty thin and already has a convenient hook on the end. I basically ground off the teeth other than the one on the end and ground the end thin enough to slip between the shaft and the seal lip. Used a pair of vice grips as the handle.

Worked like a charm, had the old seal out in 30 seconds.



Now to clean things up and keep the new seal from leaking as well. It's probably a little hard to see in this picture but there's some rust build up on the shaft. I would guess that corrosion working its way under the sealing surface was the cause of the leak.



Used some 320 grid sandpaper and a popsicle stick to clean all the corrosion off of the shaft and smooth out some minor pitting.



I like lots of grease when putting in seals and bearings.



New seal in. gently seated with an appropriately sized socket.

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Old 05-01-2015, 07:28 PM   #40
gunnerbuck
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That looks like the ticket, nice work..
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