Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[ronsolo]

I am changing my oil. Where are these little bag/screen filters I am supposed to clean?

Looking toward the front of the bike, I found the one on the left side and cleaned it. If I am correct the manual is telling me the other one on the right side is under the big friggin cover that contains the oil filter and everything?

Whiney voice.....but I don't want to take all of that off...

[motometal]

Originally Posted by Dirtbag

I am changing my oil. Where are these little bag/screen filters I am supposed to clean?

Looking toward the front of the bike, I found the one on the left side and cleaned it. If I am correct the manual is telling me the other one on the right side is under the big friggin cover that contains the oil filter and everything?

Whiney voice.....but I don't want to take all of that off...

after reading a gazillion posts, I found the general consensus to be that it really isn't necesary to take that apart...in fact, several guys took the cover off only to find there was no screen in there anyway

[motometal]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

MOTOMETAL:

I understand all of your mods except this one:

1” aluminum spacer for left side panel cut in half, shorter bolt

Ed

Ahh, there's a good reason why this is confusing Ed...when I posted, I had forgotten the spacer actually doesn't go where I put it.

I removed the chain guard (not guide), and it had an aluminum spacer, about 1/2" dia x 1" long. I cut that in half, and screwed it onto the left side panel.

Stock, with stock muffler, the side panel was starting to try to melt on the muffler. I noticed there is a convenient threaded insert in the lower part of the side panel...not sure what is supposed to go there but I took that spacer, a short bolt and loctite and used that to space the side panel away from the muffler. Worked great. It scrated the muffler a bit, but I don't care because it's back where you can't see it behind the panel anyway.

[Ed@Ford]

DIRTBAG:I just did those screens. Like Buffalo Dan said, the one next to the shift shaft will have crap...and it did, black, orange and metal. One on the clutch side was spotless. Wasn't too hard to do but was unnecessary. There was something that shoulda been torqued in the clutch side...but I forgot what. Put in 20W50 non synthetic. Will run for 500 miles or so. I'm an old fashioned guy who believes in break in oil. Will go to 15W50 Mobil 1 @ 1000 miles.

MOTOMETAL: Now I understand. I did something different. A button head M6 with a double nut to space it out. Same thing.

Someone mentioned a little "bumper" (part # 8000-67970) on the air cleaner cover was missing. In the parts book they specify only 3 are required. Looking at the cover it sure looks like a 4th is required. I found these little rubber nipples at work and added one...cut down so it keeps the plastic stud from trying to rub a hole in the foam. Any opinions on this fix?

Finally, although I am incompetent at posting pictures, I came up with an auxiliary 1.5 gallon fuel tank that mounts on the rack. I replaced the rack with a plate, added the bracket to mount the tank horizontally. go to www.kolpin.com and look for the 1.5 gallon fuel tank in the ATV stuff. Got the tank cheap from wal-mart.com but had to pay full book for the bracket from Kolpin. Still came to under $60. I followed all the threads on the big tank. Had one on order. Was not satisfied by all the negative comments about fuel lines, fit, alignment etc of the big tank. This is an alternative....or a means for the REAL LOOOONG distance riders to pack even more gas!

[Ed@Ford]

MOTOMETAL: Wow does it handle with the fork legs shoved up in the clamps? Makes it steer a little quicker?

[jambie]

For those of you that have the Leo Vince pipe, what difference in sound is there with the screen in vs. out? Mines on the way, and I've heard that it can be quite a bit louder at some throttle settings. I'm commuting to work on mine at very early morning hours, so I need to be as quiet as I can. Does the screen make a sound difference?

Cheers,
Tom

[irnbru]

Originally Posted by motometal

Stock, with stock muffler, the side panel was starting to try to melt on the muffler. I noticed there is a convenient threaded insert in the lower part of the side panel...not sure what is supposed to go there but I took that spacer, a short bolt and loctite and used that to space the side panel away from the muffler. Worked great. It scrated the muffler a bit, but I don't care because it's back where you can't see it behind the panel anyway.

There is supposed to be a rubber bumper in that insert. Mine vibrated out and got lost, got a new one from the dealer and loctited it in place.

[buffallodan]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

MOTOMETAL: Wow does it handle with the fork legs shoved up in the clamps? Makes it steer a little quicker?

Yes...

I am currently running Scorpian MT90 AT's


with the forks raised up in the clamps, third line...really makes the bike rail in the twisties...I am trying to learn how to lean the bike over to the point of scraping pegs , it looks like I am gonna need to take some riding lessons ...

Dan

[buffallodan]

Originally Posted by jambie

For those of you that have the Leo Vince pipe, what difference in sound is there with the screen in vs. out? Mines on the way, and I've heard that it can be quite a bit louder at some throttle settings. I'm commuting to work on mine at very early morning hours, so I need to be as quiet as I can. Does the screen make a sound difference?

Cheers,
Tom

I am pretty sure the insert/ arrestor screen is the most quiet setup. I am gonna switch back to that as the other inserts are just too loud...

Dan

[buffallodan]

Originally Posted by motometal

after reading a gazillion posts, I found the general consensus to be that it really isn't necesary to take that apart...in fact, several guys took the cover off only to find there was no screen in there anyway

Not to quible...
The fact that the screen was missing on at least one bike , is a good reason to check it, at the very least on the initial oil change. I would rather it be in there in case there was a problem down the road, of course, ymmv...

Dan

P.S. I am a bit anal on maintenance stuff, prmarily because I am new to bikes...every account is that clutch side screen has been spotless, but I would hate to be the one not to make sure it was in there when the inevitable problem arises...

[rockchucker22]

Originally Posted by Ed@Ford

DIRTBAG:I just did those screens. Like Buffalo Dan said, the one next to the shift shaft will have crap...and it did, black, orange and metal. One on the clutch side was spotless. Wasn't too hard to do but was unnecessary. There was something that shoulda been torqued in the clutch side...but I forgot what. Put in 20W50 non synthetic. Will run for 500 miles or so. I'm an old fashioned guy who believes in break in oil. Will go to 15W50 Mobil 1 @ 1000 miles.

MOTOMETAL: Now I understand. I did something different. A button head M6 with a double nut to space it out. Same thing.

Someone mentioned a little "bumper" (part # 8000-67970) on the air cleaner cover was missing. In the parts book they specify only 3 are required. Looking at the cover it sure looks like a 4th is required. I found these little rubber nipples at work and added one...cut down so it keeps the plastic stud from trying to rub a hole in the foam. Any opinions on this fix?

Finally, although I am incompetent at posting pictures, I came up with an auxiliary 1.5 gallon fuel tank that mounts on the rack. I replaced the rack with a plate, added the bracket to mount the tank horizontally. go to www.kolpin.com and look for the 1.5 gallon fuel tank in the ATV stuff. Got the tank cheap from wal-mart.com but had to pay full book for the bracket from Kolpin. Still came to under $60. I followed all the threads on the big tank. Had one on order. Was not satisfied by all the negative comments about fuel lines, fit, alignment etc of the big tank. This is an alternative....or a means for the REAL LOOOONG distance riders to pack even more gas!

I'm with you! I also plan on adding some sort of rack tank for longer rides. As far as oil goes I prefer break in oil, then I have had real good luck with Motul, or any ester based oil. As far as suspension goes I don't quite understand why so many people think its' too stiff I'm 175lbs with gear and really like to have stiffer springs, seems every other bike I've had I need to get stiffer springs....not on the TE. Maybe its the hard desert riding, or the rocks I seem to always slam into, or 4' rolling whoops.

[motometal]

Originally Posted by rockchucker22

I'm with you! I also plan on adding some sort of rack tank for longer rides. As far as oil goes I prefer break in oil, then I have had real good luck with Motul, or any ester based oil. As far as suspension goes I don't quite understand why so many people think its' too stiff I'm 175lbs with gear and really like to have stiffer springs, seems every other bike I've had I need to get stiffer springs....not on the TE. Maybe its the hard desert riding, or the rocks I seem to always slam into, or 4' rolling whoops.

just seems like with 12" of travel, I shouldn't be jarred by those sharp edged lead-ins to bridges, pot holes, and the like. I'm sure break in will help. The accepted rule on rear sag, is that you want close to 1/3 travel (4"), without too much sag just from the bike's weight alone. The spring would be bouncing around in there loose by the time I got 4" out of mine. I don't fault the bike for that, the stock springs always work for someone, maybe just not me in this case.

Dan-FWIW, my dealer said "don't bother" on the right side screen. I may still do it anyway, I don't mind spinning wrenches as long as it's for good cause. I suppose a chance i'll tear the gasket and have to order one.

[motometal]

regarding sliding the forks up in the clamps, on all bikes, I move them up until it gets twitchy, and go from there. If it's an off road only bike and i'm willing to deal with some headshake now and then to make it corner better, then there's my setting. If it's a DP bike or street bike, I lean more towards stability...but still...on my XRL I ended up lowering the front end a bunch (I actually shortened the suspension, I wouldn't have been able to slide the forks up in the clamps far enough to get it to handle to my liking).

this really comes down to a personal preference thing, but every rider shouls experiment with this setting, as it makes a huge difference in the personality of the bike. If you have ever noticed how much better a bike turns a tight corner if you put your nuts on the gas cap, this is mostly just because the weight transfer is compressing the forks and making the steering angle steeper.

I've found the 610 has something about it that just feels right in turns on the pavement. Off road, I haven't been able to really explore this trait much due to the Karoos.

[buffallodan]

Originally Posted by motometal

just seems like with 12" of travel, I shouldn't be jarred by those sharp edged lead-ins to bridges, pot holes, and the like. I'm sure break in will help. The accepted rule on rear sag, is that you want close to 1/3 travel (4"), without too much sag just from the bike's weight alone. The spring would be bouncing around in there loose by the time I got 4" out of mine. I don't fault the bike for that, the stock springs always work for someone, maybe just not me in this case.

Dan-FWIW, my dealer said "don't bother" on the right side screen. I may still do it anyway, I don't mind spinning wrenches as long as it's for good cause. I suppose a chance i'll tear the gasket and have to order one.

The gasket should come off with the case just fine, I had my case off multiple times, dealing with counterbalancer nut issue and when replacing my shift shaft, and the gasket held up fine...btw when removing the brake pedal I did find the inner o-ring was torn, perhaps from not getting it seated correctly on previous maintenance...

Dan

[parkolay]

Originally Posted by buffallodan

Yes...

I am currently running Scorpian MT90 AT's


with the forks raised up in the clamps, third line...really makes the bike rail in the twisties...I am trying to learn how to lean the bike over to the point of scraping pegs , it looks like I am gonna need to take some riding lessons ...

Dan

Hey Dan, I looks like I need to replace my MT90 AT's at the end of my 3000 miles, how far have yours taken you?