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Old 06-05-2010, 09:27 PM   #17131
edeslaur
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Sandy Eggo
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Anyone figure out how to make it so you can change views underway?
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06 Husqvarna TE610 - IMS 5 gal clear tank, heated grips, Alaska Leather sheepskin, Dirt Bagz, Leo Vince slip on, JD Jetting kit, Utah skid plate, Cycra barkbusters
08 BMW K1200S - It's freakin' awesome

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Old 06-05-2010, 09:29 PM   #17132
xymotic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edeslaur
Anyone figure out how to make it so you can change views underway?
Paging k7mdl to the white courtesy phone
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:34 AM   #17133
miketv
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Location: Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edeslaur
Anyone figure out how to make it so you can change views underway?
When my last one took a dump I removed the flash prom at the shop and read it. I could not find the line(s) that needed to be commented out to allow you to change the display while on the fly, seemed to have something to do with the magnetic MPH sensor input locking out the button while moving. I also wanted to write a line into the code so that when I hit the rev limiter the display would flash "ASSHOLE". Maybe I'll get back to that project this winter.
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:35 AM   #17134
jtemple
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Papillion, Nebraska
Oddometer: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketv
When my last one took a dump I removed the flash prom at the shop and read it. I could not find the line(s) that needed to be commented out to allow you to change the display while on the fly, seemed to have something to do with the magnetic MPH sensor input locking out the button while moving. I also wanted to write a line into the code so that when I hit the rev limiter the display would flash "ASSHOLE". Maybe I'll get back to that project this winter.
Haha, that would be awesome! I'm a computer engineer. If you want a second set of eyes on some code, I'm game.
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Old 06-06-2010, 07:40 AM   #17135
miketv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtemple
Haha, that would be awesome! I'm a computer engineer. If you want a second set of eyes on some code, I'm game.
Sounds good, thought it would be rather humorous if I ever sold the bike. Talk about a funny phone call to the Husky dealer

one thing too: if anyone ever takes the pcb assembly out of the enclosure I would recommend coating the board with a product called "HumiSeal 1B31 Aerosol" it's and environmental acrylic that seals up the board well. Just tape off the plugs and buttons prior to application.

miketv screwed with this post 06-06-2010 at 07:51 AM
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:42 AM   #17136
DeBandi
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Blount Springs, AL
Oddometer: 3,100
Front rotor

I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.




No luck.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:44 AM   #17137
jtemple
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Location: Papillion, Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
How about an Easy Out?
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:50 AM   #17138
Kingsqueak
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Monmouth County, NJ
Oddometer: 820
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
This should get you close:
Great start, thanks...when the tail bag gets here I have to get that going. Just started to RTFM and go over the bike.

I need to get a good bike cover too, going to be poking about seeing who makes a decent one. My old covers always ripped up or blew away easily and it wound up with a bike out in the weather...which sucks.
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:55 AM   #17139
Kingsqueak
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Location: Monmouth County, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1
Did you realize there is a numeric readout tach mode - you don't have to rely on the bars.
Yup, was riding around in clock mode mostly so I just had the bars as a reference.

Was mostly curious if mine was running 'normally' as I have no comparison point. Definitely seems better with two or more bars heading horizontally for smooth fueling and cruising along.

I got the trip meter zeroed for the first fill up yesterday. The fuel light was on when I picked it up, seems like there's still a fair amount in the tank when that lights up, so I'll see what I get for miles until it lights again.

I've got to find a handlebar ball mount for the GPS to check the speedometer out too. I like to know exactly how fast I'm going...the KLR read very fast on the speedo compared to actual speed. I was getting tailgated all the time and couldn't figure out why when I was nearly ten over the posted around town.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:14 AM   #17140
xymotic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingsqueak
Yup, was riding around in clock mode mostly so I just had the bars as a reference.

Was mostly curious if mine was running 'normally' as I have no comparison point. Definitely seems better with two or more bars heading horizontally for smooth fueling and cruising along.

I got the trip meter zeroed for the first fill up yesterday. The fuel light was on when I picked it up, seems like there's still a fair amount in the tank when that lights up, so I'll see what I get for miles until it lights again.

I've got to find a handlebar ball mount for the GPS to check the speedometer out too. I like to know exactly how fast I'm going...the KLR read very fast on the speedo compared to actual speed. I was getting tailgated all the time and couldn't figure out why when I was nearly ten over the posted around town.

I haven't heard of anyone having accuracy issues. Mine was Dead on, balls accurate.

As for reserve, careful with that. I got 17-20 miles on reserve. Not a lot when you are in the stix. And I think someone posted an ad saying 60 MPG. Um, not even close unless you are a rider that is constantly getting tailgated I get about 45. I've tried to drive on a whole tank without being a hooligan just to see what the mileage is capable of, but so far I have not actually been able to do that.
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Originally Posted by Just_Sean
Oh for ***k's sake Aaron. Please link us to my fascist, racist or homophobic posts.
"Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either."
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Baja trip to the tip
6:10 to Yuma
trials and tribulations in the Mojave
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:36 AM   #17141
Xcuvator
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edeslaur
Anyone figure out how to make it so you can change views underway?
Why not put a switch that interrupts one of the sensor wires. I have been meaning to do that for quite some time.


Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guy


Those screws are locktitied in, which I'm sure you know. I would mig weld a nut on the allen head, so a hex socket can be used. The heat from the weld will soften things up a bit.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:39 AM   #17142
RAW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
You're going to have to use an extractor.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:49 AM   #17143
toddler
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Location: Pinewood Springs, CO(between Lyons and Estes Park)
Oddometer: 2,721
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.


No luck.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
Grind a notch on the head so you can use a big screwdriver? I'm not very good at these things, so I call my friend over to extract bolts. He did my footpeg bolts perfectly in 30 minutes yesterday.

Good luck!
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:52 AM   #17144
xymotic
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Location: Federal Way, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddler
Grind a notch on the head so you can use a big screwdriver? I'm not very good at these things, so I call my friend over to extract bolts. He did my footpeg bolts perfectly in 30 minutes yesterday.

Good luck!

I like to alternate heat, and PB Blaster for a day or two before resorting to brute force methods. But then again you've already rounded the heads.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just_Sean
Oh for ***k's sake Aaron. Please link us to my fascist, racist or homophobic posts.
"Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either."
Albert Einstein


Baja trip to the tip
6:10 to Yuma
trials and tribulations in the Mojave
Baja Blitz Yard sale
View Current Location via Spot Tracker
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:47 AM   #17145
edeslaur
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Sandy Eggo
Oddometer: 445
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks guys....
Grab a metal chisel (FOR metal, not OF metal), not too sharp since you want it to bite instead of cut, a hefty hammer. Start mostly perpendiculr to the bolt to put a notch in it (I'd say 20-35 degrees), about 1/3 or more of the way into the material. Once you've got that, put the chisel at about a 45-60 degree angle to the work, and unscrew it.

BTW, cut into the face of the bolt (where the hole is), around 12:00. Not into the outer rim of the bolt face. You'll be beating mostly straight down into the bolt (same direction as it goes into the hole).

Watch for cutting the material away, that's a bad thing and not the goal. If that happens, use something blunter and/or less angle. More angle really doesn't help, it's surprisingly counterintuitive.

I usually use a large Craftsman screwdriver. This time, it was a Stanley. You'll want a bigger screwdriver for this bolt.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6471778&postcount=57
BTW, one of the guys there just knew what I was doing was impossible. Heh.

And remember - Counterclockwise! (lefty-loosey, righty-tighty)

For the other ones, if they're still in there and not broken loose yet, it looks like you want to invest in a better set of hex wrenches. Make sure you keep the bit perpendicular to the bolt hole. To break them loose, snap the wrench. The way I like to do it is to pop it with the palm of my hand, firmly, but not insanely while pushing the tool FIRMLY into the hole. If the wrench/bit twists in the bolt, you're doing something wrong or have a crap tool (or, possibly, bolt).

Worst case, use that chisel to cut the bolt heads off, then grab what's left with Vise Grips and twist them out after heating them up (careful with that hub). Cherry red and grab 'em just as they're cooling is what you're supposed to do, but I dunno about in that spot.
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06 Husqvarna TE610 - IMS 5 gal clear tank, heated grips, Alaska Leather sheepskin, Dirt Bagz, Leo Vince slip on, JD Jetting kit, Utah skid plate, Cycra barkbusters
08 BMW K1200S - It's freakin' awesome

Ride reports:
- 10 Mar Baja
- 08 Feb Baja
- 07 Aug West coast PDX->SAN
- More!

edeslaur screwed with this post 06-06-2010 at 11:07 AM
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