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Old 06-06-2010, 11:24 AM   #17146
tagalong
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Floyd Co., GA
Oddometer: 463
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.


No luck.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
An old professional approach to removing allens with rounded out heads is to take a Torx socket just a hair larger and drive it in with a hammer. This gives more surface area to grip, and a more positive grip. Of course, you need to get them freed up first.
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:48 AM   #17147
Kingsqueak
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Joined: May 2005
Location: Monmouth County, NJ
Oddometer: 820
Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
I haven't heard of anyone having accuracy issues. Mine was Dead on, balls accurate.

As for reserve, careful with that. I got 17-20 miles on reserve. Not a lot when you are in the stix. And I think someone posted an ad saying 60 MPG. Um, not even close unless you are a rider that is constantly getting tailgated I get about 45. I've tried to drive on a whole tank without being a hooligan just to see what the mileage is capable of, but so far I have not actually been able to do that.
Good info, thanks again. I ride like a snail (generally 5 over) most of the time, the fines are nuts here and I had a few tens of thousands of them back in my 20's. Also, generally speaking the local cops really hate bikes. I haven't had a point violation (speeding etc) in over 20yrs and rarely get stopped. Until I got a bike.

They stop bikers (non Harley of course) here just for kicks. "I couldn't see your inspection sticker". I got pulled over at least once a quarter when I was last riding...for no reason. Gotta love steaming to death in gear while they noodle around entertaining themselves.

My general riding is around suburbia, even 'off road' here so I think I should be pretty o.k. with the small tank on this thing for a while.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:05 PM   #17148
Kilomph
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Joined: May 2010
Location: CO
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Question

Is the 2000 Te-610 any good? I've been considering a couple local 525 exc but the Te-610 seems like it'd be a slightly better DS.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:23 PM   #17149
Ruffus
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Fort Erie,Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeBandi
I'm replacing my front disk rotor and have encountered a problem.

Two of the screws are so tight, they have stripped, and I can't get them out.

The allen head on the screws have rounded off.

-I soaked them with penetrating oil overnight.
-I also tried heating them with a torch.




No luck.

Any other suggestions?


Thanks guys....
One option, if you have access to a mig or tig. get a nut with an inside diameter just a wee bit smaller than the head. Place over top, weld inside the nut to the head, let it cool, then just use a wrench to remove.
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Old 06-06-2010, 04:49 PM   #17150
Indy Unlimited
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Location: Parker, CO
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Since you are going to replace the disc anyway just grind away the bolt and disc if all else above fails.
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Old 06-06-2010, 05:31 PM   #17151
goincb89
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hey so this is frank.
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Old 06-06-2010, 05:47 PM   #17152
goincb89
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Central new jersey
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i picked him up in november and cleaned it up and put a fresh timing chain on it.
hes named frank for a reason its got a 95 frame a 2000 te kick only engine, and 98 plastics.
its been a blast to ride but im not sure if everything is quite right cause its lots of low end but the power really signs off after 6k, its got a dellorto carb with a 174 main and 52 pilot and one of the uptite full perforamce exhaust on it and a opened up airbox. im in central NJ and would really like to meet up with someone thats got a 610 to hop on and and give it a whirl since i have nothing to judge its power and performance against, also when i whip the throttle open it will hesitate backfire through the airbox and shoot a flame out the tailpipe.
valve were just adjusted and it is a 1-2 kick starter, idles good and otherwise the power delivery seems smooth
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:19 PM   #17153
xymotic
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Location: Federal Way, WA
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Well, I fired up the bike today after my cam chain change. It took a LONG time and after a small heart attack inducing backfire she fired right up and purrs.

Course I forgot to tighten the rad hose clamp under the tank, so once I got that sorted she seems to have survived the surgery.

I am having two issues though:
The Front Brake is rubbing the caliper a bit. And I have very little almost non existent force at the handle. I don't understand this because I didn't open the system at all. I kinda thought maybe the caliper would center itself on the rotor if I could get it to bite? Which would fix my rotor rubbing problem. Is that correct or did I do something off on the install?

Also, in the fiche, part #35, don't these actually go the other way? Out away from the wheel?




With the new forks and Bars, the brake line seems tight. Can anybody tell me the specs of the stock line? I want to ride the bike while I order a new one.


Also, I seem to have an oil leak in the right case. Do those gaskets go 'bad' for any particular reason? The case is tight, and the gasket seemed like it was in perfect order. I suppose I could have got dirt or something in there, but it seems strange. I also of put in $70 a gallon motorex, so I really don't wanna open the case if I can avoid it.
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:24 AM   #17154
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic
Well, I fired up the bike today after my cam chain change. It took a LONG time and after a small heart attack inducing backfire she fired right up and purrs.

Course I forgot to tighten the rad hose clamp under the tank, so once I got that sorted she seems to have survived the surgery.

I am having two issues though:
The Front Brake is rubbing the caliper a bit. And I have very little almost non existent force at the handle. I don't understand this because I didn't open the system at all. I kinda thought maybe the caliper would center itself on the rotor if I could get it to bite? Which would fix my rotor rubbing problem. Is that correct or did I do something off on the install?

Also, in the fiche, part #35, don't these actually go the other way? Out away from the wheel?




With the new forks and Bars, the brake line seems tight. Can anybody tell me the specs of the stock line? I want to ride the bike while I order a new one.


Also, I seem to have an oil leak in the right case. Do those gaskets go 'bad' for any particular reason? The case is tight, and the gasket seemed like it was in perfect order. I suppose I could have got dirt or something in there, but it seems strange. I also of put in $70 a gallon motorex, so I really don't wanna open the case if I can avoid it.
Clean the drain plug area well, and drain the oil into a clean pan and reuse it. Not that I have ever needed to do that :-).

Right side leak: I assume you checked the cover bolts are tightened fully and did not mis the one under/in front of the oil filter? Sometimes bits of the old gasket will stick on the metal and not mesh up right when the thing goes back together allowing oil to weep out, probably only when running if it is in the upper 2/3.

bars/brakes: When you had your bars off, teh master cyclinder likely was upside down for many days. You probably now have air in the line. Yo need to bleed the system. You can try to cheat if the air might be in the top portion only. Loosen the cyclinder hose banjo bolt and and push on your brake pads (open them) and catch the air and fluid that drips out. Others have put a strap on their brake handle to hold it open for days and let the air bubble to the top.

On my '07, the bushing/spacer (#35) goes between the bracket and the caliper to properly space the caliper over the rotor.
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:28 AM   #17155
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by edeslaur
Anyone figure out how to make it so you can change views underway?

You have to make the speedo think it is at zero mph. There is a slight delay as it averages the pulses. The best way to do this is to use a switch or relay/Switch to open both side of the speedo sensor cable. The Husky Speedo thread has my experiment using diodes and a switch to ground the signals. Not good enough, at least not without lots of delay. Not worth the effort overall. My stock speedo started locking up so I just put a Trailtech Vapor on. Problem solved.
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:52 AM   #17156
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
A little 2-day ride for the Blackdog DS ride

June 5-6 was the annual Blackdog Dual Sport Event in Hood River, Oregon. Got sun on Saturday, rain on Sunday. Some major slippery, greasy mud roads, mud holes, and loads of good riding. Got some single track in, but mostly forest roads and pavement connectors. Saturday was in Oregon, Sunday was on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge.

This is looking down on the orchards and town.




Mt Hood with a poser


Was too busy riding and trying to stay vertical to take many pictures. I only crashed once in a perfect slide through the mud and into a seamless stand up manuever. After that my gloves were too muddy to handle the camera, though the rain did eventually wash most of it off. The regional ride comments and pictures are here for those interested in this great event. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...566402&page=16

Sharp eyed folks might notice the new-to-me Highway Dirt Bikes submount, lower clamps, top clamp, and handguards now on my bike. They did their job well during my crash. I have a loaned-for-testing GPR tower mount designed for the '08-'09 TE610 with stock tank that looks like it will work with my '07 and IMS 5 gallon tank after a slight modification to remove about a 1/4" of material that sits down into tank ridges around the gas tank bolt. Will be working on that more this week. Once fit, I measure and order a Scotts damper with the correct arm. GPR makes a submount for teh TE610 also if you are not using the HDB system. I do not know if the GPR submount will work with a HDB top clamp. The GPR tower uses 2 standoffs on either side of the tank so it straddles the tank, with the tank bolt being the third leg. The HDB submount fits nicely with the Lynx dashboard. Other submount designs (GPR and Protect Eduro Concepts I believe) that are large blocks with the lower clamps (riders) machined integral to them are too deep and will interfere with the Lynx dashboard bend location.


The area in front of the tank bolt hole (to the left of the hole in the above picture) neeeds 1/4 shave off to seat within the tank ridges.

- Mike

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Old 06-07-2010, 05:18 AM   #17157
Fizz
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 168
Rim Locks

On front\rear wheels, opposite the valve stem, there are little rubber 'thingies' where real metal rim locks should be. Is this just a plugged up hole for when you want to put rim locks in, or is it a new fandangled rim lock. For a bike in its class I would assume it comes with rim locks???? I am confused.

Thanx in advance
Fizz
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:51 AM   #17158
BikeSDP
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Longmont, CO
Oddometer: 500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizz
On front\rear wheels, opposite the valve stem, there are little rubber 'thingies' where real metal rim locks should be. Is this just a plugged up hole for when you want to put rim locks in, or is it a new fandangled rim lock. For a bike in its class I would assume it comes with rim locks???? I am confused.

Thanx in advance
Fizz
Yes, it's a plug for that very purpose. Interestingly enough, my WR300 was delivered with front and rear rim locks, yet nothing on the 610.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:56 AM   #17159
jtemple
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Joined: Mar 2010
Location: Papillion, Nebraska
Oddometer: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizz
On front\rear wheels, opposite the valve stem, there are little rubber 'thingies' where real metal rim locks should be. Is this just a plugged up hole for when you want to put rim locks in, or is it a new fandangled rim lock. For a bike in its class I would assume it comes with rim locks???? I am confused.

Thanx in advance
Fizz
It's funny you should mention that. I just looked closer at the pics of my 630 and noticed there are no rim locks.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:59 AM   #17160
toddler
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Pinewood Springs, CO(between Lyons and Estes Park)
Oddometer: 2,721
Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeSDP
Yes, it's a plug for that very purpose. Interestingly enough, my WR300 was delivered with front and rear rim locks, yet nothing on the 610.
You would generally run lower tire pressures in your wr300, 10-14psi. The 610 would generally be higher, 16-22psi. I think that is enough pressure to not need the rim locks.
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