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Old 10-08-2006, 08:05 PM   #166
onebaduce
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spacer

Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
I lost the spacer that holds the rear plastic off the muffler and now I have melted plastic ...what was the solution for a repair?
Dan you can order just the spacer I lost one two. The part number is in the parts manual. Gorilla glue new one in. The fix for me that helped more then just the spacer was to tuck the front part of that panel in under the blue panel. it forced out the panel away from the muffler perfect and you can;t tell the difference up front.

Joe
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:06 PM   #167
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Thx Joe.

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Old 10-09-2006, 08:38 AM   #168
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Dan my spacer was not plugged in, which caused my big panel meltdown, I haven't had much trouble with it since securing the spacer, I have on couple of occassions had a little melting when standing on very steep technical downhills, with my legs clinching the sides.

Gotta do some suspension work though, rode 92 miles of very hard, washboard FS roads yesterday, and it beat the snot out of me, rear end skittering everywhere on the washboards.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:21 PM   #169
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New TE610 Owner - Tahoe Reno Area

Just picked mine up today. Would like to meet others in the area who are interested in exploring the area on similar bikes.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:41 PM   #170
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Welcome to the group Offroute,
Let us know how the 610 compares to the DL as I almost went with the Suzuki...would like to have both as they make a good combo imho.

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Old 10-09-2006, 10:01 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
Welcome to the group Offroute,
Let us know how the 610 compares to the DL as I almost went with the Suzuki...would like to have both as they make a good combo imho.

Dan
Hi Dan,

I can already tell you that they are completely different bikes. I love the wee strom and have a hard time imagining anything better for my daily ride. Incredibly smooth, extremely reliable, and leaves you grinning time and time again. It is a great bike in the twisties and super comfortable for long rides. My problem is that I have often found myself exploring on roads or trails much rougher than what it was designed for. See this thread for an example:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122816

Now with the TE610, I'm hoping to explore similar backcountry to what's in the story above, with a bike that's built for it. Time will tell, and my biggest reservations regarding the TE purchase are reliability. If that proves to be a non-issue, then the 610 should round out my riding stable perfectly. At 50, I've still got plenty of interest in doing real adventures including multi day self-supported all-dirt rides. Nothing extremely technical, but I need a bike that I won't beat the s*** out of in the process.

My hours spent reading posts here and on TT have given me great hopes for this ride. I'll be sure to post more as I learn...

Cheers

Fred
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:20 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroute
Time will tell, and my biggest reservations regarding the TE purchase are reliability.
Welcome Offroute! I don't think you'll have any reliability issues as long as you check your counterbalancer nut (ok the computers are sketchy). I just ran into my first manufacturing ralated failure. The wiring harness is so tight that a full lock turn ripped the horn wire off. I have to splice in an inch or two of wire there. The horn might be a non-issue but I find it a lot better for signaling someone on the trail than finding a spot to blow by them.
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:21 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
Welcome Offroute! I don't think you'll have any reliability issues as long as you check your counterbalancer nut (ok the computers are sketchy). I just ran into my first manufacturing ralated failure. The wiring harness is so tight that a full lock turn ripped the horn wire off. I have to splice in an inch or two of wire there. The horn might be a non-issue but I find it a lot better for signaling someone on the trail than finding a spot to blow by them.
Hey Hoder,

Thanks for the advice. Is there a thread you can direct me to that describes how exactly I can check the CB nut?

Thanks
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:26 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroute
Hey Hoder,

Thanks for the advice. Is there a thread you can direct me to that describes how exactly I can check the CB nut?

Thanks
Look here under Mechanical Issues
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...43#post3057043

Also your bike might stall in (not so) deep water.

Hey Dan how about adding a link to the index for the water crossimg fix?
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Hoder screwed with this post 10-10-2006 at 01:53 PM
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:43 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
Look here under Mechanical Issues
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...43#post3057043

Also your bike might stall in (not so) deep water.

Hey Dan how about adding a link to the water crossimg fix?
Thanks a bunch Hoder, will check it right away.
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Old 10-10-2006, 05:00 PM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder
Look here under Mechanical Issues
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...43#post3057043

Also your bike might stall in (not so) deep water.

Hey Dan how about adding a link to the index for the water crossimg fix?
Will do, Hoder, thanks,

Dan
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Old 10-10-2006, 08:42 PM   #177
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buffallodan, I ran across your thread on the Speedzilla site asking about the "Differences of TE-610 & SM-610?"

http://speedzilla.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18612

I'm interested in what you ever came up with as I'm considering the same thing. I'm looking for probably 50/50 dirt/road use. Have you found out, or do you believe, it's better to get the TE and buy a set of SM wheels, or buy the SM and get the off-road wheels, etc.?

I had some ideas going into this but I'd like to get your opinion which is the most feasible...
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Old 10-10-2006, 09:40 PM   #178
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My new TE610E

Hi All,
I have just bought a 2nd hand TE610E 2004. I rode a friends 2001 model and was so impressed I had to have one. It's been fitted out with a Staintune exhaust, a Kickstarter, Renthal taper bars and riser, fork boots, barkbusters and a Whipps bash plate. As you know the motor is very smooth.

Can anyone tell me how to set the chain guide/tensioner? Is it supposed to be straight up and down or angled backwards? Mine is bent back so that the chain rides up and over it. What does it do? Is it supposed to tension the chain when the wheel is unweighted?
Thanks,
Dave
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:34 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ra2bach
buffallodan, I ran across your thread on the Speedzilla site asking about the "Differences of TE-610 & SM-610?"

http://speedzilla.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18612

I'm interested in what you ever came up with as I'm considering the same thing. I'm looking for probably 50/50 dirt/road use. Have you found out, or do you believe, it's better to get the TE and buy a set of SM wheels, or buy the SM and get the off-road wheels, etc.?

I had some ideas going into this but I'd like to get your opinion which is the most feasible...
I wanted to do more offroad so I went with the TE as to not sacrifice suspension travel. The SM has stiffer suspension as well as being shorter by about an inch. Considering I can't out ride the TE with street tires on, I think it makes a good curvy road bike as is and you can raise the forks in the stantions to quicken handling as well...so far no regrets on going with the TE and unless I have some disposable income I won't be getting 17's for a while and will use the Pirelli AT90's for pure street miles.

Dan
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:34 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buffallodan
I wanted to do more offroad so I went with the TE as to not sacrifice suspension travel. The SM has stiffer suspension as well as being shorter by about an inch. Considering I can't out ride the TE with street tires on, I think it makes a good curvy road bike as is and you can raise the forks in the stantions to quicken handling as well...so far no regrets on going with the TE and unless I have some disposable income I won't be getting 17's for a while and will use the Pirelli AT90's for pure street miles.

Dan
I'm with you on this Dan My thoughts were running just a little bit like "since I'm not a full time dirt rider, I wanted to get even a little more dual nature out of the bike".

I saw the SM as essentially the same bike, right down to the gear ratios, with only the wheels, 320mm floating disk, and a much bigger Brembo radial caliper as the major diff's and wondered if I wouldn't simply be ahead of the game by starting with the SM. that way, I'd only have to get a front wheel with a 320 disk mounted instead of two wheels with disks and a caliper spacer.

my thinking is that the bigger brake would be more applicable on the dirt than the smaller (possibly undersized?) one would be on the street, no?

I realize that I would probably have to go with a 19" front while keeping the rear at 17" but is that such a terrible compromise?
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