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Old 04-25-2012, 02:25 PM   #23296
BrandonR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
I'm thinking if I was heading out to a pretty remote area, I might carry one of those very small Litithium batteries as a backup. Think of it as a backup kick starter. They are small and light, so carrying one isn't that big of a deal, especially if you are already running off of a smaller one and can fit both in the original battery compartment. They are known to hold their charge for a long time with out loosing their capacity, so that definitely helps. The backup one can be pretty small and just enough to get the bike cranked.

These two battery threads might be of interest to those that want to research this more.
- What kind of battery for adventuring, is Lithium up to the challenge?
- Motorcycle Batteries .. AGM, GEL, Wet, Lithium Iron Phosphate (Li-ion)
The only question though is will the thing that killed the main battery also kill the backup battery?

I think the vibration, heat and impacts are what damage the regular batteries, if you use either a more durable battery or eliminate the causes then you won't have any trouble with the battery. I went the cheap route with a capacitor instead of spending $$ on a fancier battery.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:31 PM   #23297
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Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
They're not a bitch at all. Squeeze the buttons hard, push the connectors further on to the fittings, then pull them apart.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

And the crossover hose tip is a must. Otherwise your tank will drain 'til empty.
Yeah, well, you must have really tiny, really limber and really strong fingers! I find it really difficult to touch the back side of one of them let alone squeeze the damned thing!

in other words; just like a bitch.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #23298
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Well I have 20,000 miles on my 2007 610 - all is good - one cam chain at 8500 miles - new one at only 6 clicks,

But I have some time on my hands (retired) and want to refresh the top end - not the piston rings - but the valve train stuff - so what do I need - cam bearings and rocker arm bushings??

Larryboy - any advice??

Check it first. Cam followers, rocker bushings and shafts, cam bearings...YMMV.
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Old 04-28-2012, 08:46 AM   #23299
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonR View Post
The only question though is will the thing that killed the main battery also kill the backup battery?

I think the vibration, heat and impacts are what damage the regular batteries, if you use either a more durable battery or eliminate the causes then you won't have any trouble with the battery. I went the cheap route with a capacitor instead of spending $$ on a fancier battery.
I'm not good with electricity. Can you explain how to install the capacitor?


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Old 04-29-2012, 03:42 PM   #23300
Mgizler
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Picking Up a New to me 2006 TE610

Hello all, I am about to pickup my first Husqvarna. I am buying it from a good friend of mine. It is a 2006 610 with 2200 miles on the clock, and he is the second owner. A couple of questions for you guys;

First, I am buying it for $1800.00 (is this a good price for an 06)

Second, I have been riding/ wrenching on bikes and cars my whole life, and I am currently an automotive instructor. So I am not afraid to tear into this thing. With that being said, I was wondering is there anything that stands out maintenance/mechanical wise that I should look out for. Obviously i am going to change oil,filters, battery, go through bearings, check cam chain, etc...

I appreciate all the help and am looking forward to putting my orange bike (KTM 250xc) in the garage for a while.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:09 PM   #23301
motogo1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgizler View Post
hello all, i am about to pickup my first husqvarna. I am buying it from a good friend of mine. It is a 2006 610 with 2200 miles on the clock, and he is the second owner. A couple of questions for you guys;

first, i am buying it for $1800.00 (is this a good price for an 06)
a steal,,,imho.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:25 PM   #23302
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2200 miles and $1800 is pretty much a no brainer unless something is terribly wrong. Enjoy it!

There was a 2006 TE-610 near me that I went to look at with a buddy. It also had just over 2k miles, but was a bit beat up and wasn't idiling on its own. Guy was asking $3k for it, but I think he was pretty willing to to negotiate, but my buddy decided to pass.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:46 PM   #23303
Mgizler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
2200 miles and $1800 is pretty much a no brainer unless something is terribly wrong. Enjoy it!

There was a 2006 TE-610 near me that I went to look at with a buddy. It also had just over 2k miles, but was a bit beat up and wasn't idiling on its own. Guy was asking $3k for it, but I think he was pretty willing to to negotiate, but my buddy decided to pass.

The only reason that I am getting is so cheap it because I am buying it from my friend. And it has been sitting for awhile so the carb is going to need cleaned and the battery is toast.

I am very excited. I have never owned a Big Bore Bike, but always dreamed of having one since I was a kid watching all the Baja 1000 movies. Plus it doesnt help that i show my students the Baja movie Dust To Glory every year.

I am going to primarily use it for commuting back to work and to ride a the forests in Pennsylvania when we head back home, and out in Moab where my parents live.

I love this site already!!!!!!
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:01 PM   #23304
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The NAPA brand battery that the PO put in my bike when the Varta died has itself passed on. Went from sitting for months with no issues to not taking or holding a charge, without warning. Was able to jump it and ride and have it restart the bike for one day. Left it in the garage with the ground cable disconnected for a week and it was dead. Jumped it again and headed down the trail, but became well-practiced at bump-starting before the day was over.

Just pulled the trigger on a $138 Yuasa YTZS on fleabay. Hope its as good as all the LC8 guys say. I found one guy (gaspipe) saying Yuasas haven't been awesome, but I didn't do enough searching to figure out whether his experiences were with YTZ or YTX-BS batteries.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #23305
motogo1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mgizler View Post
The only reason that I am getting is so cheap it because I am buying it from my friend. And it has been sitting for awhile so the carb is going to need cleaned and the battery is toast.

I am very excited. I have never owned a Big Bore Bike, but always dreamed of having one since I was a kid watching all the Baja 1000 movies. Plus it doesnt help that i show my students the Baja movie Dust To Glory every year.

I am going to primarily use it for commuting back to work and to ride a the forests in Pennsylvania when we head back home, and out in Moab where my parents live.

I love this site already!!!!!!
Based on my experience (and others) I have 20,000 miles on mine.

Battery tray tends to crack.
Keep and eye on CS sprocket. Mine got loose and ruined the splines.
Cam Chain tensioner you already mentioned. I like the manual tensioner. YMMV
If you carry a lot of weight on the rear, the subframe may break.
Foot peg bolts tend to break. Stronger bolts and/or grind mating surfaces flat. Some have welded.
Suspension can be revalved and new springs depending on your weight.
Carb: Some people go with JD jetting. I just dropped the needle one notch. Runs great.
Grease the swing arm and linkage bearings.
Ride the crap out of it! Enjoy!!
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:52 PM   #23306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motogo1 View Post
Based on my experience (and others) I have 20,000 miles on mine.

Battery tray tends to crack.
Keep and eye on CS sprocket. Mine got loose and ruined the splines.
Cam Chain tensioner you already mentioned. I like the manual tensioner. YMMV
If you carry a lot of weight on the rear, the subframe may break.
Foot peg bolts tend to break. Stronger bolts and/or grind mating surfaces flat. Some have welded.
Suspension can be revalved and new springs depending on your weight.
Carb: Some people go with JD jetting. I just dropped the needle one notch. Runs great.
Grease the swing arm and linkage bearings.
Ride the crap out of it! Enjoy!!
Well said
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:55 PM   #23307
BlueLghtning
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I recently put the MotoBatt in my 09 TE610 after reading this thread - http://www.intruderalert.com/cafe/in...topicID=176271

The extra set of hookups is really nice for accessories also.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:17 PM   #23308
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Has anybody run the Pirelli XCMH in softer conditions, sand and soft singletrack specifically?

I am running the Pirelli Pro FIM right now, and I absolutely loved the thing in softer stuff. It is the best DOT knobby I have found yet for riding the single and dual track in NJ, you can rail the corners, get up on the tank, and ride it like a race bike.

However, I just spent the last 2 days riding up in the PA mountains, for the first time since I swapped this tire on. It worked fine (in that it gripped), but in 2 days (200 miles), it got WRECKED. The center is still in decent shape, but probably half of the shoulder knobs are torn off. I don't know if it was the high speed gravel roads (probably did 50 miles of fire roads at 50-70 mph), or the super gnarly rocky climbs and descents, but it ain't good.

Basically, I am looking for a super aggressive DOT knobby that I can rail on in singletrack and NJ hare scrambles, that doesn't get totally smoked riding on rocks. Looking around, it seems like the XCMH is a good option. I run Michelin AC10s on my KDX and those don't seem to chunk in the rocks, although the bike is 80 pounds lighter. Any other recommendations? A guy I rode with this weekend was running the Metzeler Six Days front, it seemed to do well on his KTM 530, anybody tried those?

Ugh. Tires...
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:41 AM   #23309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
...Basically, I am looking for a super aggressive DOT knobby that I can rail on in singletrack and NJ hare scrambles, that doesn't get totally smoked riding on rocks.
Try a Pirelli Scorpion Rally DOT. I got almost 5,000 miles from my last one. Unphased by rocks, good on pavement, aggressive off road if aired down properly and priced slightly lower than many.

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Old 04-30-2012, 06:34 AM   #23310
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
Has anybody run the Pirelli XCMH in softer conditions, sand and soft singletrack specifically?

I am running the Pirelli Pro FIM right now, and I absolutely loved the thing in softer stuff. It is the best DOT knobby I have found yet for riding the single and dual track in NJ, you can rail the corners, get up on the tank, and ride it like a race bike.

However, I just spent the last 2 days riding up in the PA mountains, for the first time since I swapped this tire on. It worked fine (in that it gripped), but in 2 days (200 miles), it got WRECKED. The center is still in decent shape, but probably half of the shoulder knobs are torn off. I don't know if it was the high speed gravel roads (probably did 50 miles of fire roads at 50-70 mph), or the super gnarly rocky climbs and descents, but it ain't good.

Basically, I am looking for a super aggressive DOT knobby that I can rail on in singletrack and NJ hare scrambles, that doesn't get totally smoked riding on rocks. Looking around, it seems like the XCMH is a good option. I run Michelin AC10s on my KDX and those don't seem to chunk in the rocks, although the bike is 80 pounds lighter. Any other recommendations? A guy I rode with this weekend was running the Metzeler Six Days front, it seemed to do well on his KTM 530, anybody tried those?

Ugh. Tires...
I have the AC 10 on the 610 and it's holding up very good! I've been on Mt rides and no chunking. I have tried to hurt this tire and I can't. The only thing that might take it down, is hard road riding...


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