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Old 05-29-2012, 10:54 AM   #23446
logroller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
There isn't a gasket.

I hope you type fast and didn't spend too much time typing all of that.
It took be 4 hours to type that up - No, eyes quick.

No gasket. How the heck does that valve cover make a seal. I've never heard of a no gasket valve cover top. Whys though 600 series so different from the the other modies, me's wonder? It looks like the 600 series valve cover works like the top and bottom end mating surface on the smaller cc bike. Interesting.

I would say my recommendation still applies. Clean every single spec of the old sealer, wipe down any oil, reapply even amount of new sealant, check seating, slightly tighten, check seating, tighten to spec.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:56 AM   #23447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lav1200 View Post
Had the top end apart to replace the rings. When reassembling it all, heard an odd "snap" while torqueing down the cam sprocket bolts... ugh:

Bike has approx 25k miles on it. Calling Halls and Motoxotica tomorrow to see who can get me one the quickest. Sucks to have something like this go just as riding season hits here in Canada.
WHAAAAAA??? Good for you knowing to think twice about what that noise might of been and then checking. Could you imagine trying to ride with that and the damage that would have occurred if you had not heard the pop/crack.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:18 AM   #23448
Dr Klaun
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Does anyone have pics / info of the holes through the rear fender area for the rear rack (through the plastic)? I know this can't hold much, etc. etc. but I'm planning on fabbing up a little alum. plate rack for light items, that sits on risers extending down to the Al subframe. The 06-07 models had that OEM rack - was just wondering diameter / alignment of the holes through the plastic - I assume they just align vertically from the predrilled ones in the little alum subframe?


I'd also like to get some concensus on front brake pads. As I was working on the bike over the weekend, I noticed that the pads were missing big chunks of material. Never seen that before... Are the cheap fleabay organic / semi-metallics OK for general use or are folks actually using sintered or metallic pads?

Thanks!
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Dr Klaun screwed with this post 05-29-2012 at 01:00 PM
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:56 AM   #23449
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logroller View Post
It took be 4 hours to type that up - No, eyes quick.

No gasket. How the heck does that valve cover make a seal. I've never heard of a no gasket valve cover top. Whys though 600 series so different from the the other modies, me's wonder? It looks like the 600 series valve cover works like the top and bottom end mating surface on the smaller cc bike. Interesting.

I would say my recommendation still applies. Clean every single spec of the old sealer, wipe down any oil, reapply even amount of new sealant, check seating, slightly tighten, check seating, tighten to spec.

Yeah, it's like a bottom end..no gasket machine tight fit. Your method doesn't work on the 610, I've tried...hafta use thread sealant on the bolts, the oil migrates up the threads and comes out around the bolt head if you don't.
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:57 PM   #23450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
I have a constant issue with an oil leak on the front of the engine, more right side. The oil looks like it is coming from the area of the front right of the valve cover and then runs down between the header pipes.

I have tried 3 times now to re-seal everything and it makes no difference and leaks the same amount in the same general area. It seams like it leaks the most running it at highway speeds.

I have been using permetex Aviation Gasket maker on the valve cover and inspection cover gaskets, with a dab of red silicon on the bolt threads.

What am I doing wrong???? I am tired of digging into this damn thing over and over. Is there anywhere else it could be leaking oil from that I am missing?

Thanks for any help.
There is a time gap in the video, but it seems like he did not use any gasket sealant on the 2006 model.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pocw20JmBHw
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:03 PM   #23451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Yeah, it's like a bottom end..no gasket machine tight fit. Your method doesn't work on the 610, I've tried...hafta use thread sealant on the bolts, the oil migrates up the threads and comes out around the bolt head if you don't.
Just found this, future reference parts source for most Huskies. Sorry I never did cathc what year, looks like the top end had gaskets until 2006. If I am reading this right.

http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/produ...nd-gaskets-kit

COXR650L and Larryboy, have you tried calling Hall's (IL), or Gpmotorcycles (San Diego, CA) and Moto-Forza (Escondido, CA)? All three have always helped me with questions.
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:32 PM   #23452
mahonk
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flat spot around 4500?

when im rolling along at say 4500 rpm and then decide to crack the throttle i get a bit of hesitation for a second... then things pick up and i start to pull hard... with it still pinned, if i roll off the throttle a little bit i get a sudden increase in power? this is new to me since ive changed two things.. moved to a town with an elevation of 3000ft... and got the clearances set on the rockers just before the move.. any ideas?
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Old 05-29-2012, 10:37 PM   #23453
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me again

the bike is a 2007 610te and is carburated
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:35 PM   #23454
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logroller View Post
Just found this, future reference parts source for most Huskies. Sorry I never did cathc what year, looks like the top end had gaskets until 2006. If I am reading this right.

http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/produ...nd-gaskets-kit

COXR650L and Larryboy, have you tried calling Hall's (IL), or Gpmotorcycles (San Diego, CA) and Moto-Forza (Escondido, CA)? All three have always helped me with questions.

Every 610 I've seen has been the same no matter how old. No gasket there. MotoXotica is my dealer of choice because he listens to me and stocks what breaks.

I wore out a 2007 610 in two years, lots of wrenching in 20,000 miles and I just try to help out here in the 610 thread, I saw every problem with the 610 and more. Cracked a front hub too.
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:43 AM   #23455
SilverBullet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahonk View Post
when im rolling along at say 4500 rpm and then decide to crack the throttle i get a bit of hesitation for a second... then things pick up and i start to pull hard... with it still pinned, if i roll off the throttle a little bit i get a sudden increase in power? this is new to me since ive changed two things.. moved to a town with an elevation of 3000ft... and got the clearances set on the rockers just before the move.. any ideas?
This is characteristic of running lean. You were probably slightly lean before and didn't know it and now the 3K elevation change tipped the scale. Adjust your needle setting and/or rejet to your new altitude. What airbox setup do you have? If opened up you could cover the holes for a temp fix, might be enough.

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Old 05-30-2012, 07:52 AM   #23456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mahonk View Post
when im rolling along at say 4500 rpm and then decide to crack the throttle i get a bit of hesitation for a second... then things pick up and i start to pull hard... with it still pinned, if i roll off the throttle a little bit i get a sudden increase in power? this is new to me since ive changed two things.. moved to a town with an elevation of 3000ft... and got the clearances set on the rockers just before the move.. any ideas?
Check the resistance readings on your TPS.

Look into rejetting. I did the "Malcolm Smith" jetting and it runs crisp and strong from sea level to 5000'. The on-off-on hesitation is completely gone, which I attribute to the leak jet change.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:39 AM   #23457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
This is characteristic of running lean. You were probably slightly lean before and didn't know it and now the 3K elevation change tipped the scale. Adjust your needle setting and/or rejet to your new altitude. What airbox setup do you have? If opened up you could cover the holes for a temp fix, might be enough.

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Since there is less dense air at higher elevations, shouldn't the bike be running richer at higher altitude? That is if he went up 3k ft in elevation and not down?
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:48 AM   #23458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueLghtning View Post
Since there is less dense air at higher elevations, shouldn't the bike be running richer at higher altitude?
The fuel calculations done by the computer use the air flow sensor to determine how much fuel to inject. So, less air mass entering the sensor, less fuel mass injected also.

The savings in mileage come more from the fact that the bike and rider are pushing through less air than anything related to the fuel mixture.
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:19 AM   #23459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
The fuel calculations done by the computer use the air flow sensor to determine how much fuel to inject. So, less air mass entering the sensor, less fuel mass injected also.

The savings in mileage come more from the fact that the bike and rider are pushing through less air than anything related to the fuel mixture.
I was questioning in response to mahonks' bike which is a carbed model. Silverbullet was saying his bike would be leaner at higher elevations and that didn't make sense?

I would agree with what you said about the FI models.
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:24 PM   #23460
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There is a jd jet kit in the carb right now... If that helps any..
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