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Old 06-05-2012, 11:10 PM   #23521
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awshouse View Post

Not that I seek discord, but do others with expertise agree with this?

Thanks, Andy

No.




The jump from 8 clicks to 11 happened really fast on my 2007 and made a mess...like 500 miles from when I saw 8 clicks to the big mess.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:22 PM   #23522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awshouse View Post
Aaron, we are talking a day in August-- no sooner cuz I'll be riding in MT at the end of July. If you're down with that I'll shore up assurances from Tasky and snoop around for a motion pro tool to borrow. A


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I probably have to do mine before that.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:40 PM   #23523
ADVJake
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had to edit my post because i actually didn't do my oil change properly, an allen bolt as a drain bolt?? what is this oddity?
Whats the purpose of the 12mm drain bolt vs the allen? seems a small amount of oil comes out of the 12mm while the majority from the allen.
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:49 AM   #23524
K7MDL
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Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
No.

The jump from 8 clicks to 11 happened really fast on my 2007 and made a mess...like 500 miles from when I saw 8 clicks to the big mess.
Andy,

I have not seen good data here about lifespan on a replacement chain, but so far in my own case (also a 2007), it is much longer. The stock chain stretches fast. For local stuff I would have no problem letting it go longer and check it regularly (also listen for noise change). For a long trip, I woudl change it out though. Mine needed it at about 6-7K miles was 10 Clicks and the rubbing was almost enough to warrant a reed valve cover and screw replacement. 11K miles on the new one now, and not much change in wear so far so much better.

Seems like the rubbing occurs by 10 clicks. On a stock chain, 8 clicks is not far away from 10 mileage wise. I noticed my engine sounding louder when the rubbinig started, but it creeps up on you. Ideal case is to inspect the reed valve cover for rubbing.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:10 AM   #23525
darkstarmoto
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I like your center stand. Can you provide any helpful hints for replication?
Contact Cigar Mikes and hope he's still making them. I just got mine but I understand he might be slowing down production. http://www.cigarmikes.com/

Quote:
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What, just one picture?! What's wrong with you!?
Here's a side view...note I did melt my side plastics a little until I added a spacer to hold it off the muffler and some heat wrap. You have to pull the rollie harness straps pretty tight. I also modded my passenger peg brackets to hold a d-ring for the straps to be strung thru.

Edit: forgot to mention I have the factory rack mounted under all that. I makes a useful anchor for the straps but that's about it.

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:34 AM   #23526
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Just picked up a sweet little treat for my wife today. A mint 08 CRF 230 L for a steel! Only 5k on the clock and not a scratch! Brand new Mt 21s front and rear to boot. I haven't found the thread for the 230 yet, but will look to see what I can do to pull a little more HP out of it.


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I found quite a bit of good info over at Thumper Talk model specific, for my daughters 230. You can piece together a power up kit (it is called) which is a needle, pilot jet, and main jet. A special tool is needed to turn the IMS on the later models. Also pipe insert comes out. The mods make it seem like a dirtbike instead of a generator with wheels, and much more fun to ride,
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:41 PM   #23527
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Grrrrrrrr.. But I don't WANT to deal with this damn timing chain before my trip to Montana. Ok, ok, ok. Tasky says ok, but K7MDL and Larryboy say jump on it. Spose I'll jump on it. Gonna go ahead and order stuff. Aaron we can try to coordinate. I'll probably want to do it last week in june/first week in July. Need to allow lots of time before my MT trip... lots of just-in-case time. Never done this one before, so I'll be re-reading the various threads.

Mike, do you have the tool and would you be willing to lend it? I'll pm you... Andy
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Old 06-06-2012, 06:50 PM   #23528
KIK ROX
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All this talk about cam chain wear got to me. I just went out and checked mine: 6500 miles, 7 clicks. How worried should a person in my situation be if they were planning to do the CDT next month?

Also, that spring gets wiggly when you try to reinsert it into the tensioner housing, right? You just have to be careful not to bend/crimp it?
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:32 PM   #23529
Rattletrap
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Just checked my cam chain the other day, 18,189 miles and still at 7 clicks, original chain. I think its been at 7 clicks the last 5000 miles. Just got back from a 1200 mile trip thru the mountains. I plan on freshening up the top end this fall, cam bearings, roller tips, rocker arms. Checked my clutch bushing a couple of times and no slop, but probably will replace it anyway. Somebody loved this bike when they put it together, felt guilty this spring and replaced the spark plug.

My roadie set-up for the twisties in the mountains.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:26 PM   #23530
K7MDL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awshouse View Post
Grrrrrrrr.. But I don't WANT to deal with this damn timing chain before my trip to Montana. Ok, ok, ok. Tasky says ok, but K7MDL and Larryboy say jump on it. Spose I'll jump on it. Gonna go ahead and order stuff. Aaron we can try to coordinate. I'll probably want to do it last week in june/first week in July. Need to allow lots of time before my MT trip... lots of just-in-case time. Never done this one before, so I'll be re-reading the various threads.

Mike, do you have the tool and would you be willing to lend it? I'll pm you... Andy
At 7 no concerns and really 8 no problem. The art is figuring out when it will hit 10 and rub. Even if it does rub, you get some time before real damage is done. Don't know how long the CDT is, but if at 7 clicks and the ride is for 1-2K miles, I'd vote for go ride, change it afterwards. Problem is you never know if you are the short or the long wear chain owner. At 8 clicks and 2K miles for MT round trip, I would not be so confident :-). You might make it.

Andy, I have the tool and a breaker bar and large sockets. I use a penny on teh clutch side and/or put it in gear for tightening. Don't have a fancy holding tool. I have done my own and assisted with another, was not hard to do, just takes precious riding time and have to catch and replace the fluids. A KLR top end was harder. I have a stockpile of old coolant since it is hard to get rid of hazardous waste around here. Recycling oil is easy to do at most any parts store around here.

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Old 06-06-2012, 11:31 PM   #23531
K7MDL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIK ROX View Post
All this talk about cam chain wear got to me. I just went out and checked mine: 6500 miles, 7 clicks. How worried should a person in my situation be if they were planning to do the CDT next month?

Also, that spring gets wiggly when you try to reinsert it into the tensioner housing, right? You just have to be careful not to bend/crimp it?
You are fine.
Correct on spring. Careful you do not strip the cap, easy to strip it. Does not have to be cranked. Mine is stripped but tight enough to not fall out. And I was trying to be careful, despite being a relatively experienced hand. I check mine while leaving the muffler in place, I have large hands, and since it is difficult to access behind the muffler pipe, I managed to not feel how tight it was getting, then oops, got real easy.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:05 AM   #23532
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All you guys doing CC should look at the APE manual tensioners. I just did my CC, guides, etc and now I have the APE in hopes it will help make the CC last longer.


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Old 06-07-2012, 06:21 AM   #23533
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIK ROX View Post
All this talk about cam chain wear got to me. I just went out and checked mine: 6500 miles, 7 clicks. How worried should a person in my situation be if they were planning to do the CDT next month?

Also, that spring gets wiggly when you try to reinsert it into the tensioner housing, right? You just have to be careful not to bend/crimp it?
Did you retract the plunger to reinstall?
If no, your in trouble.
The tensioner only advances, it does not retract. If installed fully extended it is putting too much tension on the cam chain giuide.
Seven clicks is a way low amount and not a concern at all.

To install correctly, fully retract the tensioners plunger ( remove the phillips head cover screw to access plunger screw head ). It will stay fully retracted unless you jar it . Bolt tensioner to the engine and release the plunger allowing the plunger to slowly advance till it contacts the chan guide. Put the cover screw back in and the tensioner will take care of the rest.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:57 AM   #23534
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Did you retract the plunger to reinstall?
If no, your in trouble.
The tensioner only advances, it does not retract. If installed fully extended it is putting too much tension on the cam chain giuide.
Seven clicks is a way low amount and not a concern at all.

To install correctly, fully retract the tensioners plunger ( remove the phillips head cover screw to access plunger screw head ). It will stay fully retracted unless you jar it . Bolt tensioner to the engine and release the plunger allowing the plunger to slowly advance till it contacts the chan guide. Put the cover screw back in and the tensioner will take care of the rest.
I've reinstalled mine several times and never had to do anything like this??? Yes, return the tensioner to full in position, mount to cylinder head, insert spring and cap bolt, but to " removing phillips head cover screw to access plunger screw head " is news to me. Are you talking about the 610 or the 630? As soon as the spring puts any pressure on the mechanism you can feel and hear it advance.


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Old 06-07-2012, 07:38 AM   #23535
KIK ROX
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I think he is talking about the screw cap. Mine is a 10mm socket, maybe his is a phillips screw head? I did push the plunger all the way in, then bolted the housing to the block, then inserted the spring. I heard the plunger click a few times, but even still, the spring seemed very long for the amount of space I was compressing it.
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