Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[K7MDL]

Originally Posted by PB49

Hi Guys

Well I am trying to wire my new Lynx headlamp and have come to a little stumbling block

The wiring instructions say:

Red wire to black OEM Low Beam

Black wire to White OEM High Beam

White wire to Blue OEM light ground

Now here is the kicker the harness supplied does not have a White wire

The instructions say Connect your OEM headlight wires to the terminals on the Lynx Harness (Using the crimp terminals)

You get supplied 4 terminals but without cutting into the harness and removing a plug, I do not have anyway of connecting to the harness (now loose wires)

My guess is that I either have the incorrect harness or I have a connector missing

I know there are a few of these out there so can any body help or tell me what I should have

Cheers
PB

I have a ton of pictures here from my 2007 TE610 install. I have HID low and Halogen high beam.
https://skydrive.live.com/?sc=photos...3050&sc=photos They are probably not close enough to help directly and mine coudl be a bit different. The first thought is that you cannot see a white ground harness wire because it might be in shrink or protective tubing, and it might have a ring terminal on it, and you might not need to wire it with a crimp terminal, just connect it to a clean bare frame ground. All the ground wires in the harness are connected together, only 1 connection to ground is really required.

If this is not the case, and since I cannot see what you have and touch them myself, let me attempt to describe a generic process I might use to sort it out. Having a voltmeter is hand at times to measure 12V (or lack of). If you do not have one, the old headlight will do. You can try to trace the wires also. The relay pinouts are found on the Interweb if it comes to that.

I changed things to suit my taste. I jumpered the handle hi-lo switch so that low is always on and so hi only comes on when needed. I use the stock low beam wire to operate the Lynx low beam relay, and the high beam stock wire to operate the high beam Lynx relay. The power to the relays comes straight off the battery via the supplied fused wire pair. I can swap the hi beam halogen lamp into the low beam housing quickly if the HID ever failed on the road.

Blue is ground. White is high beam, and black is low beam on the 610 end. So that part is correct.

You should have a long fused pair of wires that run to the battery. Using process of elimination, you should have 2 wires for the low beam lamp, 2 wires for the high beam lamp and are probably of equal length and both probably have connectors on them that plug directly onto the lamps.

That leaves the relay control wires to find. Since ground is already connected to your battery, I think that is done. If there is only 1 long heavy gauge wire with a fuse at the end, then the ground is being picked up by a shorter wire, probably with a ring terminal on it, and that has to get bolted to the bike frame some place for your ground. Then you should only have 2 wires unidentified with loose ends and will be less than 1 foot likely, maybe same or different color. One should be high, one low beam control and those connect to your stock headlamp positive (white and black) power leads (not the blue gound lead). With the lamps disconnected and the power end (with fuse) wired to your battery, you can apply 12V to each and verify each relay responds. If you have voltmeter you can measure which headlight power wire gets power (via a relay) when each control wire gets power. Now you know which lamp to connect those. Make some labels for future troubleshooting :-).

A lot of words written here that when performed in person with direct observation of all wire colors and tracing of some possible would only take a few minutes or less to actually do. But I live this stuff, others do not. Hope this made some sense.

- Mike

[PB49]

Originally Posted by K7MDL

I have a ton of pictures here from my 2007 TE610 install. I have HID low and Halogen high beam.
https://skydrive.live.com/?sc=photos...3050&sc=photos They are probably not close enough to help directly and mine coudl be a bit different. The first thought is that you cannot see a white ground harness wire because it might be in shrink or protective tubing, and it might have a ring terminal on it, and you might not need to wire it with a crimp terminal, just connect it to a clean bare frame ground. All the ground wires in the harness are connected together, only 1 connection to ground is really required.

If this is not the case, and since I cannot see what you have and touch them myself, let me attempt to describe a generic process I might use to sort it out. Having a voltmeter is hand at times to measure 12V (or lack of). If you do not have one, the old headlight will do. You can try to trace the wires also. The relay pinouts are found on the Interweb if it comes to that.

I changed things to suit my taste. I jumpered the handle hi-lo switch so that low is always on and so hi only comes on when needed. I use the stock low beam wire to operate the Lynx low beam relay, and the high beam stock wire to operate the high beam Lynx relay. The power to the relays comes straight off the battery via the supplied fused wire pair. I can swap the hi beam halogen lamp into the low beam housing quickly if the HID ever failed on the road.

Blue is ground. White is high beam, and black is low beam on the 610 end. So that part is correct.

You should have a long fused pair of wires that run to the battery. Using process of elimination, you should have 2 wires for the low beam lamp, 2 wires for the high beam lamp and are probably of equal length and both probably have connectors on them that plug directly onto the lamps.

That leaves the relay control wires to find. Since ground is already connected to your battery, I think that is done. If there is only 1 long heavy gauge wire with a fuse at the end, then the ground is being picked up by a shorter wire, probably with a ring terminal on it, and that has to get bolted to the bike frame some place for your ground. Then you should only have 2 wires unidentified with loose ends and will be less than 1 foot likely, maybe same or different color. One should be high, one low beam control and those connect to your stock headlamp positive (white and black) power leads (not the blue gound lead). With the lamps disconnected and the power end (with fuse) wired to your battery, you can apply 12V to each and verify each relay responds. If you have voltmeter you can measure which headlight power wire gets power (via a relay) when each control wire gets power. Now you know which lamp to connect those. Make some labels for future troubleshooting :-).

A lot of words written here that when performed in person with direct observation of all wire colors and tracing of some possible would only take a few minutes or less to actually do. But I live this stuff, others do not. Hope this made some sense.

- Mike

Mike

Thanks for the information, as you would expect I do have a few questions

First I will try and explain what I have received

The wiring harness they have supplied does not have any loose wires, They are all connected to plugs in some way or another

I have the 2 plugs that go direct to the low and high beam (back of the lights)

I have 2 plugs that go straight to each relay

I have a separate plug that I have no idea as to where this goes, but it is only a male fitting and has red and black wires only going in to it with 3 male prongs sticking out

1 wire with a ring terminal and with an in line fuse colour RED (Currently battery +)

1 wire with a ring terminal only colour BLACK (Currently battery -)

I know this will be as clear as mud

I have a ground wire on the harness that I can see

All Bike wires are correct so I know I'm good there.

Any ideas

Cheers

[huzar]

Originally Posted by Xcuvator

There is no place to drill ahole in the ones I have seen and if there was a place, the rotor is probavbly too hard to drill.
The 630 rotor is probably the same as the one you are having trouble with. &
The only way I have found to solve the problem was to get the rotor that belongs on there..

I am surprised that a shop like Tasky's would do such a thing.....

Not what I was hoping to hear

Oh well, time to order a new rotor

[K7MDL]

Originally Posted by PB49

...
I have a separate plug that I have no idea as to where this goes, but it is only a male fitting and has red and black wires only going in to it with 3 male prongs sticking out
...
Cheers

So everything is known except the above quoteed wire. My version has 2 fuses up near the relays, one for each headlight. I do not think you mentioned those in your setup. Assuming the mystery plug I quoted above is not related to fusing, and everything else is accounted for, the remaining wire must be where you connect your stock high and low beam headlights into. Some models of bike you may be able to use the supplied connector to connect to the stock headlight wire harness, other you would cut it off and use crimp terminals (probably the ones supplied).

So I think the orignal instructions make sense given this
Red wire to black OEM Low Beam
Black wire to White OEM High Beam
except ignore the White to Blue statement, you have ground through your battery connection.

You might look a little further down your stock headlight wiring to see if it has a matching connector. Maybe no crimping is required. Out of curiosity, Was the 3 pin connector supplied an inline white nylon one?

[1 lunger]

The 610 performed flawlessly today! It was mostly single track with wet packed dirt and sand. It got deep here and there and the mountain was wet rocks. The Pirelli mxmh 454 was perfect everywhere and the AC 10 hooked up like there's no tomorrow! The most confidence inspiring part was the suspension! All I can say, is what others told me, spend the money on your suspension! I'm very happy! I think there wouldn't be so much searching for the perfect tire if more people got their suspension done.


Life is good!

[MasterChief]

Originally Posted by huzar

Not what I was hoping to hear

Oh well, time to order a new rotor

Did you talk to Jeff?

He put a wave rotor on mine and the speedo works fine.

[kpt4321]

I'm going to be doing some semi-major maintenance work on my TE in the next week or two (cam chain, bag filters, valve clearance, suspension pivots, etc). While I am in there, I'd really like to replace the clutch washers with the ones I bought from Indy.

Can anyone who has done this speak to how they dealt with installing the new rivets? I am completely comfortable with the rest of the process, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be. I do not have air tools.

[Lav1200]

Originally Posted by kpt4321

Can anyone who has done this speak to how they dealt with installing the new rivets? I am completely comfortable with the rest of the process, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be. I do not have air tools.

I was in the same situation as you. I ended up taking mine to a local machinist who installed the rivets for me - $30.

[kpt4321]

I have unlimited access to a full machine shop at work, so if the procedure is relatively easy, I can do it myself, or have one of the guys help me. I am just trying to understand what the correct procedure is.

That being said, thanks for the tip. That's not a bad option either!

[huzar]

Originally Posted by MasterChief

Did you talk to Jeff?

He put a wave rotor on mine and the speedo works fine.

What's the part # on that one? The one that Jeff put on for me is 8000H0192, which appears to be one for the 250 and 310. I looked at where the magnet goes past the pickup, and there is practically no overlap, so that's the most likely culprit for why I have no speedo. And yeah, it looks like there's no room to drill elsewhere to move the magnet...

[sasrocks]

Originally Posted by kpt4321

I'm going to be doing some semi-major maintenance work on my TE in the next week or two (cam chain, bag filters, valve clearance, suspension pivots, etc). While I am in there, I'd really like to replace the clutch washers with the ones I bought from Indy.

Can anyone who has done this speak to how they dealt with installing the new rivets? I am completely comfortable with the rest of the process, but I'm not sure how difficult that would be. I do not have air tools.

I would take it to a machine shop and have them press the rivets in for you.

When put my clutch back together, the OEM rivets I initially used did not have enough material left over (after expanding to fill the holes completely) to form a mushroom cap so I got some longer ones. YMMV; I ordered a whole box and some dude on cafehusky wanted some but said he didn't need the extra length. I am pretty sure it depends on the method used to install them. I had a hammer press do mine.

[huzar]

Originally Posted by djborden

With all this talk of kickstands again, should I get a quote for mfg these?

If so, what do you guys think would be a reasonable price for something like this? Just want to see if it's worth looking into.

David

Bump...

Did anything ever happen with this side stand?

[drrags]

+1
I hate my kickstand, even after I re-welded it I still hate it.

Originally Posted by huzar

Bump...

Did anything ever happen with this side stand?

[h2o_snow]

Originally Posted by huzar

Bump...

Did anything ever happen with this side stand?

I spoke with David a few times on this - last time in May. He said he had no interest so pretty much shelved the idea. Also did not know what to charge - and we agreed that a one off project for my bike could be an expensive proposition.

Possibly come up with a group of 10 and see if we can get a bulk order?

I'm still looking (hoping) for a new stand.

[buffallodan]

Originally Posted by drrags

+1
I hate my kickstand, even after I re-welded it I still hate it.

I take it the one from the 630 won't fit?