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Old 09-13-2012, 04:44 AM   #24271
motopreserve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet View Post
Use the 2008 parts catalog as bike identical to 2009. Husky did the same thing for the TE630. No 2010 catalog only model year 2011 but both years are identical.

_
Thanks! Found it a little strange, but it was missing consistently on several sites, so I knew it must be something simple like this...

Appreciate the help.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:14 AM   #24272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huzar View Post
Finally had the time to go back to Tasky's to deal with the wave rotor not having the magnet in the right place. Jeff put on a new non-wave rotor, and the speedo works again

Of course, since I had previously threaded the pickup closer to the wave rotor in an attempt to get it to work, I now have to thread it back out, as it just barely contacts with the magnet. Which means I have to cut the cable and solder it back together again, as I'm not taking apart the Lynx fairing just to get at the back of the computer
This might be a good time to add a connector to the wire outside the fairing area.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:51 PM   #24273
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Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Great! What's a whole set cost?


Life is good!
Every single piece of plastic on the bike together cost me under $500. The upper shrouds and inner rear fender are the most expensive, and they're under $50 each.

Beware though, although it might not matter on your TE, but there is a midstream manufacturer change for the headlamp mask on the SM. When I went to change it from black (with the red and white scheme) to the grey, my headlamp didn't fit in it.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:52 PM   #24274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
This might be a good time to add a connector to the wire outside the fairing area.
That's what I'm thinking -- a two-wire, waterproof Deutsch connector...
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:55 AM   #24275
1 lunger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
Every single piece of plastic on the bike together cost me under $500. The upper shrouds and inner rear fender are the most expensive, and they're under $50 each.

Beware though, although it might not matter on your TE, but there is a midstream manufacturer change for the headlamp mask on the SM. When I went to change it from black (with the red and white scheme) to the grey, my headlamp didn't fit in it.
Great, so $350 is a great deal for the whole set! I'm looking forward to changing the look!

1 lunger screwed with this post 09-27-2012 at 12:53 PM
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:23 PM   #24276
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the 610 is still in one piece after TRYING to finish the Berkshire Triple today. Wow! That's a hard ride! It was voted the hardest enduro in the east by Dirt bike magazine for a reason. We bailed at the halfway point (50+- miles in with 50 to go) and was happy to get to that point.
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:33 PM   #24277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
the 610 is still in one piece after TRYING to finish the Berkshire Triple today. Wow! That's a hard ride! It was voted the hardest enduro in the east by Dirt bike magazine for a reason. We bailed at the halfway point (50+- miles in with 50 to go) and was happy to get to that point.
You do the trail ride?
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:22 PM   #24278
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Tank check valve - position and function - detailed ?s

I've been through hell this year with what I just discovered yesterday seems to have its root cause in the OE fuel tank check valve - the "green can". My problems have been with the pressure inside the tank flooding out the engine, not vacuum causing the float bowl to run dry. I misdiagnosed the situation as a repeatedly clogging pilot jet, but I finally put together a set of observations that point to an overfull float bowl.

So I'm planning to replace the stock check valve with a Free Flo inline check valve, or maybe the Moose swivel part if it turns out to be cheaper. Online pricing of these items is weird, so I'm just going to go to the dealer on Tuesday.

Question is, does the standard-style inline check valve need to be upright to work? Can it be horizontal or at a 45 degree angle and function properly? Instead of coming vertically off the top of the gas cap, our tank vent is at the front, aimed forward horizontally, so if the tank is fully topped up to start a long ride, any hard braking or steep descent will cause fuel to slosh out the vent line. If this little bit will cause the check valve to seal for an extended period of time, I'm still scrood, as the heat of the engine pressurizes the tank. It needs to vent.

Obviously, I'll run the vent hose in a big loop down and then back up to a level higher than the top of the tank. Any experience ditching the green can? Guesses on whether this loop will be enough?


I'm also going to add the 7602 vent filters. I did the canisterectomy, posting detailed pics here several months back, and stuck with the OE vent routing, adding a filter at the junction block. But I'm going to say scrooit all that and let this thing be a dirt bike.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:17 AM   #24279
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2009 fuel tank removal

Today I removed my tank for the first tank and got a gas bath when I seperated the quick disconnect.

Am I missing soomething or does the tank have to be empty before removal? I would think that you would be able to take off the tank on the trail if needed,,,,

I shut off both petcocks and released the lower 90 degree fitting as shown in the manual.

Thanks,

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Old 09-17-2012, 05:49 AM   #24280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
Today I removed my tank for the first tank and got a gas bath when I seperated the quick disconnect.

Am I missing soomething or does the tank have to be empty before removal? I would think that you would be able to take off the tank on the trail if needed,,,,

I shut off both petcocks and released the lower 90 degree fitting as shown in the manual.

Thanks,

Shootis
It is best to drain the tank before removing the quick disconnects. My experience is that one of the disconnects (I think it's the red one) leaves the fuel flow from the tank open.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:40 AM   #24281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
the 610 is still in one piece after TRYING to finish the Berkshire Triple today. Wow! That's a hard ride! It was voted the hardest enduro in the east by Dirt bike magazine for a reason. We bailed at the halfway point (50+- miles in with 50 to go) and was happy to get to that point.
That is a HARD ride on an ENDURO bike much less a 300+lb TE610. My hats off to you for doing 50 miles. As you know my daughter and I did the dual sport ride. I did the first moderate rated hero section on my 610 and I was cursing the organizer before I finished that 3 mile section! To honest the 610 can handle those ROCKY woods roads okay, but when the trails get tight and nasty, it's a workout. Nice ride Hugh. BTW, my daughter now has an new appreciation of what we do for fun! And, I'm really proud of her for riding some of the hardest trails in the NE as a pretty much noob trail rider.
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Old 09-17-2012, 07:55 AM   #24282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkartoom View Post
You do the trail ride?
Yep, the trail ride.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:00 AM   #24283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motogo1 View Post
That is a HARD ride on an ENDURO bike much less a 300+lb TE610. My hats off to you for doing 50 miles. As you know my daughter and I did the dual sport ride. I did the first moderate rated hero section on my 610 and I was cursing the organizer before I finished that 3 mile section! To honest the 610 can handle those ROCKY woods roads okay, but when the trails get tight and nasty, it's a workout. Nice ride Hugh. BTW, my daughter now has an new appreciation of what we do for fun! And, I'm really proud of her for riding some of the hardest trails in the NE as a pretty much noob trail rider.
Good for her! She seemed fearless laughing about how many times she dropped her bike. You should be very proud of her!
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Old 09-17-2012, 09:05 AM   #24284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
It is best to drain the tank before removing the quick disconnects. My experience is that one of the disconnects (I think it's the red one) leaves the fuel flow from the tank open.
I keep a set of vacuum hose line plugs around (look like little cones). Put a rag/paper towel under the fitting, and push in the cone quickly after disconnect. Minimal splash once you get the drill down.

On my IMS oversize tank (for a carb'd 610) I have 5 hose ends to disconnect. Plugs go into all of them to minimize drip, also to keep dirt out.
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Old 09-17-2012, 10:03 AM   #24285
tlking6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
Today I removed my tank for the first tank and got a gas bath when I seperated the quick disconnect.

Am I missing soomething or does the tank have to be empty before removal? I would think that you would be able to take off the tank on the trail if needed,,,,

I shut off both petcocks and released the lower 90 degree fitting as shown in the manual.

Thanks,

Shootis
I disconnect the inner connection (supply) at the tank ( I have updated this fitting after I broke it with a brass nipple tapped into the pump housing) and the outer return line at the lower connection (return) at the half way point. It doesnt leak on me at all doing it this way. I am assuming there is a check valve at that disconnect that stops the fuel.
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