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Old 11-13-2012, 12:26 PM   #24481
CA Stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
I see.
Thank you!
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:31 PM   #24482
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Originally Posted by shootis View Post
I was wondering if the 90 degree quick disconnect normally flows fuel when released. Mine flows tons of gas form the tank side when its separated.

I had my tank off last week and I must have not connected it properly because about 3 hours into todays ride it popped off and soaked my leg and boot. I'm enjoying the chemical burn from that,,,

I bought my bike used and it has done this since I've had it so I'm unsure of what's normal,,

Thanks
What you can do is turn off the petcocks, remove the crossover tube from one of them and leave it attached at the other end.
Have that hose in one hand when you remove the quick disconnect that flows all the fuel, slap it on there as fast as possible.
You'll still lose a little bit of fuel but it's a quick and easy way to plug that fitting without getting a bath.

As far as popping off the fitting while riding, you are correct, you must not have seated it on the fitting 100%.
I've only had my tank off a half dozen times, but I had George at Uptite replace the fittings on my tank with brass ones, just as a precaution.

PS He's the one that suggested using the crossover fuel line to plug the fitting, too.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:38 PM   #24483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by begeberg View Post
Metal ones for like $18 bucks a piece.
That's a good price for them. I paid something like $45 or more for a set a few years back from AF1Racing (Aprilia).
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:43 AM   #24484
D K
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Anybody got a left side engine case laying around?

Brokemthe chain. Snapped off the plastic chain guard....


D
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:48 AM   #24485
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Is there a TE250 thread somewhere on this sight? If not general impressions of the TE250 vs WR250R.
Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:50 AM   #24486
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Brokemthe chain. Snapped off the plastic chain guard....


D
Sorry. That wouldn't by any chance have been the stock CZ chain that came on it was it?
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:31 AM   #24487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunset_ryder View Post
Is there a TE250 thread somewhere on this sight? If not general impressions of the TE250 vs WR250R.
Thanks for your help.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=574996
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:20 PM   #24488
Bryant
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New Husky 610 TE owner, lots of questions..

Insanely pumped for the delivery of my "new" (to me) 2008 Husky 610te.. since it's non stop rain this time of year, and I'm still waiting for delivery, I'm spending too much time on-line "getting ready"... As such, I've come up w/ a few questions.

1. Does anyone have a link to a good service manual I can download?

2. The topic of stators, batteries, and so on has me curious as to if there is a brand of heated grips that works well but draws the least amount from the system?? (I have aftermarket dual HID's currently, but nothing else that's not OEM drawing current at the moment.) Living in the NW, we use heated grips... at least sissys like me do.. So it's one of the first mods I plan to make (thinking of taking it to Bills to get it done, as they seem to come really highly recommended)

3. See above, as I'd love to actually add a socket for a heated vest (ok, now you can really laugh at me)

4. tires.... I'll be needing to replace the front soon... anyone living in the mucky NW have a recommendation they care to share (I know this is uber personal, but I strongly believe the advice I get here is a million times better than what I'd get at a shop) I'll mostly spend my time in the West (where it's wet and muddy) but will also put on road miles and spend time on the East side (where it's a lot drier) so something that's a decent all around tire would be good I suspect.

5. Battery... another thing I'll need to replace soon, suggestions on makes/models that seem to perform best?

Lastly, I can't thank the people who spend the time to read all this and respond enough.. forums like this are absolutely wonderful, and for a novice like me a real life saver... thank you thank you thank you!!!
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:43 PM   #24489
drrags
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I prefer the Oxford heated grips, as I've found them to be the warmest. Your 08 has plenty of juice-making capabilities so don't worry about excessive amp draw. I also have a heated vest/battery tender outlet. I have an on-board voltage meter and running either my Warm-n-Safe or my Gerbings jacket, and the heated grips, I've never been even close to taxing the bike's output.

Having and riding with heated gear doesn't mean you're a sissy, it means you're out riding when everyone else has parked their bikes
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:02 PM   #24490
Bryant
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heated grips/socket/voltmeter

Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags View Post
I prefer the Oxford heated grips, as I've found them to be the warmest. Your 08 has plenty of juice-making capabilities so don't worry about excessive amp draw. I also have a heated vest/battery tender outlet. I have an on-board voltage meter and running either my Warm-n-Safe or my Gerbings jacket, and the heated grips, I've never been even close to taxing the bike's output.

Having and riding with heated gear doesn't mean you're a sissy, it means you're out riding when everyone else has parked their bikes
Is there a brand of on-board voltage meter recommended? I've also been told if I'm going to add these to absoltuely get one (and to shut whatever down in the event it gets close to under 14v)

Again, thank you!
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:38 PM   #24491
drrags
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Location: Reno, NV
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There are two voltage monitors I recommend. A Battery Bug and a Single LED voltmeter. The Battery Bug is awesome because it's also a load tester and will give you warning when your cheapass Husqvarna battery starts to fail. The single LED voltmeter is quite accurate and takes no space. You simply drill a 1/4" hole in the instrument cluster bracket and you're off!

Sorry, I don't have any pics of any of it on my TE610 from here at work, but here's a pic of the Battery bug on my F800 (on the left) and the single LED voltmeter (the red dot on the upper right):


Back to the heated grips... The Oxfords will automatically shut off when the voltage goes below something like 11.9 volts. I've never tested it. I always connect my grips via a key-actuated relay so they turn off when I turn off the key. Oh wait, I have tested it! At idle, my old Ural hack wouldn't put out over 12v at idle and I couldn't keep the heated grips on

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryant View Post
Is there a brand of on-board voltage meter recommended? I've also been told if I'm going to add these to absoltuely get one (and to shut whatever down in the event it gets close to under 14v)

Again, thank you!
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:59 PM   #24492
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Howdy,

I just put on a Baja Designs Squadron Headlight with dimmer. I had my local shop install it and hook it up to the high/low beam switch so it sort of acts like a DOT legal headlight. This thing is pretty darn bright, almost too bright to use on full power in traffic at night. When dimmed it does alright, and I like how it can be dimmed in 5% increments with the key fob.

But an annoying problem has developed, and I think it actually existed before I put on the new headlight. Ever since I switched out the clutch cable for a Motion Pro, the high beams flash on then off very guickly when I am up shifting. This doens't happen when down shifting. So when I am accelerating and going through the gears, when in low beam mode, the high beams come on for a split second each time I pull in the clutch and upshift.

I did reroute the clutch cable when I installed the Motion Pro and I'm wondering If I unwittingly put some stress on some wire somewhere under the headlight.

Any ideas?

By the way, I bought it used and the top left warning light has always been on. I don't even know what that light represents.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:25 PM   #24493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D K View Post
Anybody got a left side engine case laying around?
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but the cases are machined as matched pairs. You can't buy one. $1,600 + a LOT of labor.

Better to buy a used motor.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:27 PM   #24494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryant View Post
1. Does anyone have a link to a good service manual I can download?
From the rules:

"Copyright Issues

We take this stuff seriously.

Do not post copyrighted material. Links to service manuals, illegal .mp3 downloads, etc. will be deleted, and you will be banned."



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Old 11-15-2012, 04:38 AM   #24495
bobnoxious67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by His Pistolship View Post
Howdy,

I just put on a Baja Designs Squadron Headlight with dimmer. I had my local shop install it and hook it up to the high/low beam switch so it sort of acts like a DOT legal headlight. This thing is pretty darn bright, almost too bright to use on full power in traffic at night. When dimmed it does alright, and I like how it can be dimmed in 5% increments with the key fob.

But an annoying problem has developed, and I think it actually existed before I put on the new headlight. Ever since I switched out the clutch cable for a Motion Pro, the high beams flash on then off very guickly when I am up shifting. This doens't happen when down shifting. So when I am accelerating and going through the gears, when in low beam mode, the high beams come on for a split second each time I pull in the clutch and upshift.

I did reroute the clutch cable when I installed the Motion Pro and I'm wondering If I unwittingly put some stress on some wire somewhere under the headlight.

Any ideas?

By the way, I bought it used and the top left warning light has always been on. I don't even know what that light represents.
Your clutch lever is hitting the "flash to pass" switch on the front of the switch assembly...loosen the screws and roll it appropriately to avoid contact with the lever
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