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Old 01-05-2013, 10:35 PM   #24646
BiG DoM
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Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #24647
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Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:52 AM   #24648
duanew1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.
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Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.

Thanks. Someone PM'ed me a link to the MotoIQ website where they did some repairs.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ed-design.aspx

I am pretty much going to do something similar to what is on the above page. Below is where I am now. I hope the repair isn't too expensive.

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Old 01-07-2013, 04:23 PM   #24649
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That should be an easy enough fix.
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:29 PM   #24650
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I just did the Moto IQ described fix for the clutch cable - making a collar for the ferrule. Great, easy fix. That couple with some cleaning and fresh dri-slide, and the clutch pull action is night and day.

Very helpful tips.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:31 PM   #24651
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That should be an easy enough fix.
Yea that one place wouldn't be that bad to weld up, but i am planning on getting the area strengthened with some gussets. That is going to increase the price of repair by a large margin. It will be much better though when it is done.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:46 PM   #24652
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That is going to increase the price of repair by a large margin.
If you buy the metal and cut the pieces yourself, the price really should not be that much more. It's not a ton more welding - based on what was on the Moto IQ site.
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #24653
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If you buy the metal and cut the pieces yourself, the price really should not be that much more. It's not a ton more welding - based on what was on the Moto IQ site.
Yes that would help. I don't really have a workshop area or the access to the tools that I need where I live now. I might could do it but it would have to be done with hand tools.

Does anyone happen to know what grade of aluminum I should be looking for or what the subframe is made of?
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Old 01-07-2013, 06:36 PM   #24654
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Yes that would help. I don't really have a workshop area or the access to the tools that I need where I live now. I might could do it but it would have to be done with hand tools.

Does anyone happen to know what grade of aluminum I should be looking for or what the subframe is made of?
It's either low grade cheese or high end butter, not really sure :)
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:25 PM   #24655
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Looking at that fracture it may be worth bracing the break internally with rod or bar before the initial weld and the guzzeting. Always try and get the maximum span in the gusseting without it interferimg with plastic panels etc. The pic in the IQ link shows the lower gusset a bit short IMHO as was room to extend it some.
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... 'Fuck, what a trip!'

People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than motorcyclists.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:57 AM   #24656
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Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
Looking at that fracture it may be worth bracing the break internally with rod or bar before the initial weld and the guzzeting. Always try and get the maximum span in the gusseting without it interferimg with plastic panels etc. The pic in the IQ link shows the lower gusset a bit short IMHO as was room to extend it some.
The break above is through a solid forging, not a tube section.

Go to an actual metal supply place or fleabay if you can't find one near you and get 6061-T6 or T-6511 (the latter is typical for extrusions). Most of them have a remnant section where you can get end cut pieces for a few bucks. Stay away from typical hardware store material, which is actually kinda like " low grade cheese or high end butter" in comparison. IMO, the 610's chassis isn't made from poor material, it just has lots of bad design details and some sloppy manufacturing here and there.

You can make all those reinforcing bits with a bench vise, hack saw and some files. I've done a ton of that stuff that way. A power disc sander makes it go a lot faster. I guess a $10 Harbor Freight angle grinder and $4 of discs would speed things up, too.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:59 AM   #24657
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The break above is through a solid forging, not a tube section.

.
Yeah looking at it again you right.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:27 AM   #24658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
It's either low grade cheese or high end butter, not really sure :)
That is funny! You might be right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BiG DoM View Post
The pic in the IQ link shows the lower gusset a bit short IMHO as was room to extend it some.
Yes. I think that the lower bracing section can be lengthened out much further into the tail fairly easily. I have not decided how I want to do the top section though. There is not much room with the plastics. I think that I will change the design from the MotoIQ site and make a thicker but shorter brace on top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
The break above is through a solid forging, not a tube section.
Yes it is solid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Go to an actual metal supply place or fleabay if you can't find one near you and get 6061-T6 or T-6511 (the latter is typical for extrusions). Most of them have a remnant section where you can get end cut pieces for a few bucks. Stay away from typical hardware store material, which is actually kinda like " low grade cheese or high end butter" in comparison. IMO, the 610's chassis isn't made from poor material, it just has lots of bad design details and some sloppy manufacturing here and there.

You can make all those reinforcing bits with a bench vise, hack saw and some files. I've done a ton of that stuff that way. A power disc sander makes it go a lot faster. I guess a $10 Harbor Freight angle grinder and $4 of discs would speed things up, too.
I will probably go with onlinemetals.com. I have used them before and you can order exactly what you want. They have reasonable prices also. 6061-T6 is readily available but I have not seen T6511. I will probably end up cutting them some with a jigsaw and hand finishing. I am sure it will make the repair job cheaper.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:34 AM   #24659
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Rear sub repaires



Did copy of this to my 610 after 10,000km of hard Aussie bush fully loaded no issues.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:21 AM   #24660
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I will probably go with onlinemetals.com. I have used them before and you can order exactly what you want. They have reasonable prices also. 6061-T6 is readily available but I have not seen T6511. I will probably end up cutting them some with a jigsaw and hand finishing. I am sure it will make the repair job cheaper.
We have ordered a ton of metals to the shop from these folks too, just as an option: http://www.mcmaster.com/#
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