Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

[His Pistolship]

Originally Posted by Aey dubya

On the subjected of TE flaws. I upgraded to a hydraulic clutch, and though Georges kit is vary pretty, I just got a universal Magura kit and with about 20min, a drill, a cutting disc, and a pair of vice grips I had my own mount for the case. $$$$

Do tell...

[motopreserve]

Even new pads can squeak and cause a headache. The sound comes from the the pads vibrating against the rotor at a certain frequency - like all sound, just not as pretty as a piano or guitar (or pan flute if that's your bag) :) That's why people often get new or worse sounds after installing new pads. It's just a situation of a new vibration creating a new frequency. I have even had it happen after removing the wheel and reinstalling it, without changing anything but an inner tube.

There have been many options for trying to control this issue - "special grease" that goes behind the brake pad, and EBC will even send you a free pack of "damnpening pads" that you install with new brake pads. They don't advertise it - but once I heard about it, a simple email request had them on their way from EBC, no charge.

The bottom line is all or none of these things may work. Or, you could remove the pads/wheel/caliper (one or all), reinstall them without changing or adding a thing, and have no sound at all.

[Aey dubya]

Originally Posted by His Pistolship

Do tell...

If your bike doesn't break clutch cables I would'nt worry (or do anything) about it. It seems like they either do or they don't. My friend has a dealership and knocked it out for me so If you want to do this I can get the info from him. His opinion was that the 2oz aluminum piece from George was a rip off. (Just the messenger here George fans)

[Aey dubya]

Originally Posted by motopreserve

Even new pads can squeak and cause a headache.

There's truth in what your saying But, 3yrs wailing 2yrs quite, says it's worth a shot.

[motopreserve]

Originally Posted by Aey dubya

There's truth in what your saying But, 3yrs wailing 2yrs quite, says it's worth a shot.

There is no doubt it's worth trying. I'm an audio engineer, just a peep drives me bonkers. I believe what you say about your experience - but as a contrast, I swapped the silent pads on my 35 year old Honda (I wouldn't be shocked if they were original!), and had the worst racket. Disassembled the caliper, regreased the parts, and they were back to perfect. It's a frustrating mess - but one you can monkey with to eventually get rid of....if you're lucky :)

[Aey dubya]

Originally Posted by His Pistolship

Alright, ordering new pads. "Wailing.." is a good word for it.

I do remember that if I knew I was going to give a ride to a girl I would use light sand paper on the rotor. It would buy you until the next nights bike's rest.

[motopreserve]

Now that's smart thinkin'

[ebrew]

Does the clutch cable run on the inside of the right Radiator near the frame ?

Originally Posted by tunp

rear shock bolt 38.5 lbs
fork triple tree bolts 18.4 lbs
rear wheel 100lbs
front wheel 38 lbs
brake caliper 18.5 lbs

[Taranis]

Originally Posted by Aey dubya

If your bike doesn't break clutch cables I would'nt worry (or do anything) about it. It seems like they either do or they don't. My friend has a dealership and knocked it out for me so If you want to do this I can get the info from him. His opinion was that the 2oz aluminum piece from George was a rip off. (Just the messenger here George fans)

Go back a few pages and look for the discussion of clutch cable alignment. I still don't have enough miles on my bike to prove the longevity, but super-smooth and proper alignment has to be a lot better than feeling the braid of the cable grind past the end of the housing.

[Aey dubya]

Originally Posted by ebrew

Does the clutch cable run on the inside of the right Radiator near the frame ?

Yup

[Aey dubya]

Originally Posted by Taranis

Go back a few pages and look for the discussion of clutch cable alignment. I still don't have enough miles on my bike to prove the longevity, but super-smooth and proper alignment has to be a lot better than feeling the braid of the cable grind past the end of the housing.

I'm hydraulic now. Issues solved.

[flyrodder]

Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the backet so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.

[BiG DoM]

Originally Posted by flyrodder

Can't remember if was in here or on ThumperTalk, but there was a long discussion about the alignment of the lower (clutch end) adjustment bracket. On mine, when I removed the airbox, you could see that the end of the cable was not pointed at the end of the lower clutch actuation lever during mid-stroke. Obviously, it can not be perfectly aligned for the entire throw, but it was way off causing the cable to rub significantly on the end of the adjustment threads. With some vice and large crescent-wrench work, I bent the bracket so the cable at least pointed at the lever. Made a HUGE difference. Probably 50% lighter at the clutch lever and much smoother; can't feel that grinding any longer.

Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)

[h2o_snow]

Originally Posted by 1 lunger

My front brakes make noise too. Did from day 1.

+1 here. Other ideas?

[Flashman1]

Originally Posted by BiG DoM

Definitely makes a difference - problem can start with where the actuating arm is adjusted for the start of the pull but this cannot be adjusted without dropping the oil and removing the side cover and adjusting the nut on the rod. The plate can be tweaked for better alignment and you can also look at the ferule at the hand lever and slop there - can be taken up quite simply with a small strip of shimstock wound round the tip of the cable which is a thinner OD than the lever ferule (some have actually turned an additional sleeve piece but not really necessary - see on Cafe Husky)

Shim stock?