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Old 04-29-2013, 06:38 PM   #25141
TIGERRIDER007
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Acworth, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
It allows more air in, reverse of the choke.

Previous responses are correct, but in my experience the hot start button is only needed if you stall or cough out the engine, not when you shut it off on purpose. I've only needed to use it once on my 610, but I use it all the time on my 450.
Ah, makes sense. Thanks to all you guys who help us noobs along....
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:03 PM   #25142
xymotic
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Location: Federal Way, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricMN View Post
If your not leaking oil by your shifter the shaft bushing and seal are probably good. I have heard of people welding loose shifters to the shaft, but you are going to have an even harder time down the road when you NEED to get it off. To replace the shaft, you have to remove shifter and the clutch cover, the shaft will slide out the right side(make sure the shaft is clean or it will be hard to get through the bushing) You might have to remove the right foot peg, looks the shaft will hit it.
ok, cool! It just slides out the clutch side when you take off the circlip?
I do have an oil leak, but I "think" it's the crack in the stator cover where its been hitting. Either way I need to fix it.

anyone know of a decent aftermarket replacement for the shifter itself?
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:22 PM   #25143
Lav1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Anybody else broken a top motor mount? (broke right above motor)
Yup - found mine broken at about 30,000 km
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:41 PM   #25144
xymotic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lav1200 View Post
Yup - found mine broken at about 30,000 km
Did it develop a little gap or was it just a hairline crack?
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:32 AM   #25145
EricMN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
ok, cool! It just slides out the clutch side when you take off the circlip?
There isn't a circlip on my 07, they should all be the same.
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:53 PM   #25146
BarberPole
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Location: Boone, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
ok, cool! It just slides out the clutch side when you take off the circlip?
I do have an oil leak, but I "think" it's the crack in the stator cover where its been hitting. Either way I need to fix it.

anyone know of a decent aftermarket replacement for the shifter itself?
I wish I could help with alternate shifters..............but I can't.

I epoxied a couple of quarter/50cent size pieces of sturdy neopreme along
the back edge of the stator cover where the shifter head travels and it has really protected the cases.
Even though I beveled down the shifter edge, my boots tend to push in on the shifter during panic down shifts and the head scrapes along those neopreme home made buffers.........or I'd have scrape cracks in my cover also........at 1500 miles.

Good luck
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:58 PM   #25147
BarberPole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Those only control the compression stroke. Rebound dampers weren't put on the newer bikes. If you have rebound dampers they'll be on the bottom of the forks.
I might be mistaken but I think the Husky is somewhat reversed from many other bikes.

The "rebound" damper adjustments are on the top of the forks........08-09s
and the "compression" adjusters are on the bottom......on 06-07s.......along
with "rebound" adjusters up top .

Surely correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:30 AM   #25148
K7MDL
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Location: Snohomish, WA
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For a loose shifter lever fit over the splined shaft, the shaft splines are likely fine. The shifter metal is typically softer steel and has a lot of leverage applied to it, not to mention ground contact and probably was never truly tightened that well to start with.

I would look at some way to do an very thin insert, either a liquid metal or super thin material that will deform and fill the gap a bit. My traditional option is to ensure there is plenty of gap in the squeeze area, making it larger if needed (dremel wheel, hack saw, or file), and use a better clamp bolt, such as a 12.9 grade socket head and then get a good clamp force and fit again.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:44 AM   #25149
StolenFant
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It was called a beer can fix when I was younger. The 1970's Honda Elsinore's and Suzuki TM's were notorious for stripping the shifter and kick starter threads. Beer can because back then Coke cans were steel, but beer cans wetter very thin malleable aluminum. A little filing and a through bolt/nut was often required to get sufficient clamping force.

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Old 05-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #25150
tlking6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StolenFant View Post
It was called a beer can fix when I was younger. The 1970's Honda Elsinore's and Suzuki TM's were notorious for stripping the shifter and kick starter threads. Beer can because back then Coke cans were steel, but beer cans wetter very thin malleable aluminum. A little filing and a through bolt/nut was often required to get sufficient clamping force.

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Haha,, yeah, brought back some memories for sure!
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:16 AM   #25151
Taranis
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Be sure to clean the lever clamp threads with a tap use a high-strength bolt. When I got my bike at less than 1k miles, the bolt (don't know if it was the original) was low grade and the threads were rounded. The lever was slightly loose and couldn't be tightened. A nice 12.9 as mentioned above will allow greater torque without thread damage and eventual loosening. I used an ARP stainless flange-head bolt.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:30 AM   #25152
Cainer
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Location: Colorado
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Just got my 2007!

Just got my 2007 TE610 delivered. I purchased it with 2100 miles on the odo from a fellow inmate in Michigan and it took about a week to get it shipped here...but it's here in all its glory!! :)



I swear it looks like a new bike sitting there in my garage. I am already going through it with a fine tooth comb and looking for fun places to farkle (did my first mod the first morning I got it, a pigtail for the Battery Tender. :) I haven't rejetted yet for Colorado, though a JD kit came with the bike and I think I've figured out what I need to do to swap it out for high altitude (the kit was installed for Michigan air pressures, but I'm not sure if the leak jet was replaced at the time or how to tell once I get in there. if anyone has insights to that I'd love to hear them.).

Looks like I have about 1700 pages of this thread to catch up on. :) Is there a TE610 FAQ anywhere?

Cainer screwed with this post 05-02-2013 at 11:31 AM Reason: Changed 1000 pages to 1700 pages...you guys are prolific! :D
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:50 PM   #25153
h2o_snow
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Oddometer: 687
Tire Pressure and Front Rim Locks

Noob question.

I'm gonna spring for a new rear D606 and install a rim lock & then balance the tire. Good plan I think.

Have not really messed with changing pressure below 25psi for off road riding - (I'm about 50/50 road/dirt). What do you use to air up for the slab after dirt?

Thoughts on pressures - know its a personal preference/tire deal but how low do you guys go front/rear?

Also................I can make an argument in my mind for a rimlock on the front - wadya think?

Safety third.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:27 PM   #25154
Flashman1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h2o_snow View Post
Noob question.

I'm gonna spring for a new rear D606 and install a rim lock & then balance the tire. Good plan I think.

Have not really messed with changing pressure below 25psi for off road riding - (I'm about 50/50 road/dirt). What do you use to air up for the slab after dirt?

Thoughts on pressures - know its a personal preference/tire deal but how low do you guys go front/rear?

Also................I can make an argument in my mind for a rimlock on the front - wadya think?

Safety third.
Well I use a Perelli MT43 on the rear - 20 to 25 lbs on the road and 8 to 10 lbs off road - amazing traction - much better then D606 at least here in S. AZ.

Front is a Perelli 21 - leave at 20 lbs on and off road - used to air it down but got too many flats - with pinches.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:49 PM   #25155
h2o_snow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Well I use a Perelli MT43 on the rear - 20 to 25 lbs on the road and 8 to 10 lbs off road - amazing traction - much better then D606 at least here in S. AZ.

Front is a Perelli 21 - leave at 20 lbs on and off road - used to air it down but got too many flats - with pinches.
Flash,

How do you air up on the fly?

D606 rear has been a pretty good compromise for me and the local moto shop generally will match or beat the interweb. I prefer to give them my $.

Thanks.
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