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Old 05-06-2013, 09:16 PM   #25186
Lav1200
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Calgary, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
Did it develop a little gap or was it just a hairline crack?
Sorry for the late response - haven't been on here for a while. It was a hairline crack.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:57 AM   #25187
shootis
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Location: Dedham, Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashman1 View Post
Mine used to do that - but I have a 2007.

On mine it was an over charge condition - I replaced the stock POS headlight with a Baja Designs set up - no more icon.

Here was a hint - does the icon go away with the bright light setting - or when the turn signal is on. Any thing that drew more current would cause the icon to go off.

But you have a 2009 - different electronics.
Now that you mention it I did replace the stock headlight just before I put it away last year with a AdvMonster LED unit. I also have rear LED blinkers and tail light.

I'll grab a bulb and wire it in to put more load on the system to test this.

Thanks!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:09 AM   #25188
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Originally Posted by tunp View Post
I have beat mine for awhile now, rocks bouncing off of it, sliding over rocks and logs, seems to be holding up well.
ok so i need to update this. i just noticed last nite that i have a small hole on bottom and a crack at the one upper mount. I was doing alot of log crossing on sunday, so i suspect the impacts had a factor on crack at the upper mount area. But it still seems solid.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:09 AM   #25189
tunp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
Now that you mention it I did replace the stock headlight just before I put it away last year with a AdvMonster LED unit. I also have rear LED blinkers and tail light.

I'll grab a bulb and wire it in to put more load on the system to test this.

Thanks!
I went thru this same thing, w/ the same light. I love the output of this light but i could not come up w/ a great solution other then adding addtional lights to add wattage to system.
So if there is another option besides adding wattage by means of lights i would love to hear it
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:23 AM   #25190
shootis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunp View Post
I went thru this same thing, w/ the same light. I love the output of this light but i could not come up w/ a great solution other then adding addtional lights to add wattage to system.
So if there is another option besides adding wattage by means of lights i would love to hear it
I think I'll grab something like this to add a load:

http://www.amazon.com/929RR-light-Re.../dp/B000LJEJ3O
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:53 PM   #25191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootis View Post
I think I'll grab something like this to add a load:

http://www.amazon.com/929RR-light-Re.../dp/B000LJEJ3O
I have tried this, it gets way to hot to the point of melting any palstic close to it, as it is a continuios load, i even tried a solid state style load equalzer and same issue it just takes longer for it to reach the point of to hot. but your results may be different. However i had no luck.
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:31 PM   #25192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunp View Post
I have tried this, it gets way to hot to the point of melting any palstic close to it, as it is a continuios load, i even tried a solid state style load equalzer and same issue it just takes longer for it to reach the point of to hot. but your results may be different. However i had no luck.
Maybe bolt it to a giant heat sink from a voltage regulator with some thermal paste, mounted in the airstream.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:26 PM   #25193
K7MDL
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
I added a few watts load by using 3 wire turn signals. On the front I wire the 8watt filaments to be always on. The turn signals are on the 21W filament. I use the same ones on the rear but only wire the turn filament. I run a 35W HID on the front and that let the battery voltage rise to high, the VR does not do a good job at limiting the voltage under light load. 16Watts of the front filaments was just right.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:08 AM   #25194
Oaxacuzano
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Toluca, Mexico
Oddometer: 61
Battery terminals

I had issues with battery flashing battery icon or low volt battery icon, I solve the issue welding the terminals that goes to the battery as you can see in the picture. The OEM Varta Battery is kind of crap, I have a Shorai and it is very nice, reduce weight around 3 kilos ( 6 pounds )

There is no need to add load to the charging system, instead of that I am reducing the load with Rigid Industries LED lights that consumes only 17 Watts each, a total of 34 W both.

My bike is a TE610 model year 2008.

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Old 05-10-2013, 07:43 AM   #25195
WIthumper
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Location: Milton, WI
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MAX battery light

I also got the MAX battery light blinking on the display after installing the ADVmonster headlight for the TE610 (mine is the 07 model). Is there any harm just leaving it alone and letting it blink? I'm not very electrically gifted, so if something needs to be done, I'll be looking for a simple fix.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:54 PM   #25196
K7MDL
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Location: Snohomish, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIthumper View Post
I also got the MAX battery light blinking on the display after installing the ADVmonster headlight for the TE610 (mine is the 07 model). Is there any harm just leaving it alone and letting it blink? I'm not very electrically gifted, so if something needs to be done, I'll be looking for a simple fix.
You should verify the voltage is actually near 15V. Load in any form is the answer to bring it down given the voltage regulators behavior. You can choose to run with it high as others are here, but it is not good for your battery over time and so might cause premature replacement, and while I cannot prove it, I do think there is a link between the high voltage and the Husky speedo failures people including me see. Need to check the specs but the Lithium batteries may tolerate the higher voltage better. I use one in my TE450, need to look at its specs again.

I just looked at the Shorai install guide and it says do not exceed 14.8VDC and if using a lead acid type charger (if needed) do not exceed 14.4VDC and it must not have a desulfation mode. So looking at it this way, sustained voltages over 14.4 on your bike is not supported by the battery manufacturer, and should never exceed 14.8VDC.

So my opinion - If replacing your speedo is not on your acceptable list lower the voltage. The lead-acid battery failure takes time, if ever. The failure process due to constant overcharging is well understood - I was a naval submarine battery charging electrician :-). In real life on a motorcycle not all things are constant. They can fail for other reasons first or in combo so you can go either way on that point.

K7MDL screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 03:05 PM
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:24 PM   #25197
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K7MDL View Post
You should verify the voltage is actually near 15V. Load in any form is the answer to bring it down given the voltage regulators behavior. You can choose to run with it high as others are here, but it is not good for your battery over time and so might cause premature replacement, and while I cannot prove it, I do think there is a link between the high voltage and the Husky speedo failures people including me see. Need to check the specs but the Lithium batteries may tolerate the higher voltage better. I use one in my TE450, need to look at its specs again.

I just looked at the Shorai install guide and it says do not exceed 14.8VDC and if using a lead acid type charger (if needed) do not exceed 14.4VDC and it must not have a desulfation mode. So looking at it this way, sustained voltages over 14.4 on your bike is not supported by the battery manufacturer, and should never exceed 14.8VDC.

So my opinion - If replacing your speedo is not on your acceptable list lower the voltage. The lead-acid battery failure takes time, if ever. The failure process due to constant overcharging is well understood - I was a naval submarine battery charging electrician :-). In real life on a motorcycle not all things are constant. They can fail for other reasons first or in combo so you can go either way on that point.
I appreciate your insight.
I had over 15v charging rate on my 07 610 and to tell the truth don't remember checking my 08. I scored a used VR from BMP that was a little under 15. I have wondered if there is a way to adapt a different 3PH VR or even wire a VR for each phase?
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Old 05-11-2013, 05:58 AM   #25198
1 lunger
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Location: Bloomfield CT
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Knock wood, my lead acid battery lasted for years and is still good and my new Moty lite weight is working flawless. If I put the tester on it, I get between 14 & 14.4 running. I've never had a speedo failure, however I've had to disconnect it once or twice to reset just the speedo, but everything else on it aways works.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:09 AM   #25199
uska
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My 08 takes me about a full minute or two to start it when cold. Im afraid im going to burn up the starter one time, but when its warmed up it starts fine. I did start getting a neutral light blink too. When the bike starts fireing i have to hold the e button for a few more seconds otherwise it will just die out. Any advice on where to start? Sounds like its not getting enough fuel? Just a guess though. Thanks for everything
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:04 AM   #25200
uska
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I think it may be the temp sensor as my fan kicks in randomly. But could the sensor be connected with the fact that the bike barely starts when cold?
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