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Old 06-04-2013, 01:48 PM   #25231
motogo1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esp41 View Post
Did the spring cups and bushing while I was installing the Rekluse. Clutch cable pull is extremely light.

I have been planning this trip for three years. I bought the bike almost two years ago and have been steadily getting it ready. I think I made a good choice going with the Husky. My buddy sprung for a new KTM690. We have a bet on who is going to break 1st.
Sounds like you are a lot more prepared than I was when I did the trail. I only did TN to OK and that 610 will rip those roads. Plan on being ahead of schedule on Sam's guide. FWIW, my 610 has 20,000+ miles on her and I never touched those cam bearings. YMMV Good luck and you will have FUN! http://imageevent.com/motogo1/tat
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:31 PM   #25232
mark1150
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Help please




My son has just bought a 1998 TE 610, which came as a Super moto, plus the off road wheels and tyres.
So we went to fit the knobbly front and rears this evening and have found that the Brembo front calliper won't fit the 610 forks, the calipers being 45 mm spacings and the forks 65 mm, plus the Brembo will foul the spokes as it's designed to run on a 320 disc.
So question 1 Are the callipers specific to this make and model or will something else fit straight on? eg:- Husky 125, 250 etc.
Question 2 The rear wheel came without the original spacers and the Supermoto ones seem different, what spacers does he need, and again will anything else fit?

I'm so dissappointed for him as he got the bike to ride off road with me and now he's stuck, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Mark.

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Old 06-04-2013, 02:34 PM   #25233
Xcuvator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esp41 View Post
I'm leaving for my TAT run in two weeks. Bike has been gone through front to rear (New wheel bearing, sprockets, chain, cam chain, lube everything, reinforced rear rack and way to many farkles to mention).

What bike specific (2006 TE610) spare parts would you carry. Voltage regulator? Capacitor for jumping the bike if the battery (LiPo) dies?

I have the usual extra master link, tire tube and patch kit, etc. I am only wondering what might break on thebike that would be hard to acquire on the road.

Mike
Maybe I missed it, but did you beef up your subframe?
The capacitor is a good idea and one I haven't got around to doing. With your Rekluse you will still need a jump though.
Brandon R (I think) is who posted the specs for one,
My battery failed in the shop the other day when I went to start it. I pushed the start button and all I heard was a muffled pop. I guess an internal strap failed.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:52 PM   #25234
1 lunger
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Never mind.

So I figured out the issue with my bike. The spark plug boot is cracked on the inside where it slips over the plug. So I guess I need a new boot and the coil too? Or can I just replace the wire and boot. I see no way to remove the wire from the coil?? Help!!

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Old 06-04-2013, 02:55 PM   #25235
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark1150 View Post
My son has just bought a 1998 TE 610, which came as a Super moto, plus the off road wheels and tyres.
So we went to fit the knobbly front and rears this evening and have found that the Brembo front calliper won't fit the 610 forks, the calipers being 45 mm spacings and the forks 65 mm, plus the Brembo will foul the spokes as it's designed to run on a 320 disc.
So question 1 Are the callipers specific to this make and model or will something else fit straight on? eg:- Husky 125, 250 etc.
Question 2 The rear wheel came without the original spacers and the Supermoto ones seem different, what spacers does he need, and again will anything else fit?

I'm so dissappointed for him as he got the bike to ride off road with me and now he's stuck, any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Mark.
I would check the other forum here on Adventure Rider that deals with the pre 610E bikes. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=406358
I'm sure you will get it figured out.
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:07 PM   #25236
esp41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
Maybe I missed it, but did you beef up your subframe?
The capacitor is a good idea and one I haven't got around to doing. With your Rekluse you will still need a jump though.
Brandon R (I think) is who posted the specs for one,
My battery failed in the shop the other day when I went to start it. I pushed the start button and all I heard was a muffled pop. I guess an internal strap failed.
I used Brandon Specs on the capacitor. Honestly, I have not tested it yet. I did do a lot of subframe reinforcement. I do not have a spare voltage regulator. I don't recall any failures in that area, but I forget lot's of important stuff sometimes.

I am not sure how many sets of brake pads I will use up either. I am not going to set any speed records on this trip, I want to enjoy the journey, not the destination.

Mike
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #25237
mahonk
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bought rebuild kit for front master cyl.. now no front break at all..

I have a mightyvac 8000. installed some telfon tape around the bleeder nipple as i noticed it was pulling some air in from that area.. why cant i get this break line to build pressure.. is there somewhere in the master cylinder rebuild i could have went wrong? When i do it the old school way by manipulating the break lever and bleeder screw at same time only a dribble comes out at a time? so master cylinder is working? when i use the mighty vac i can easily go through an entire bottle of break fluid, so the mighty vac works...its an 07 husky610 with brembo breaks. reason i replaced a few parts in the master cyl. is because breaks went mushy. they cylinder bore looked fine in the master cyl and the lip seal looked fine as well. probably a waste of time.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:19 PM   #25238
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solved

had to back adjust crew out a little more.. and flick lever for a few minutes.
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:43 PM   #25239
Duken4evr
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Husky TE 610. They are not perfect, but they are the best all around street worthy but off road capable and proven to be unbreakably reliable and yet fixable with a crescent wrench and flat blade screwdriver true dual sport available. The KTM 690 is more powerful and cooler, but the Husky is basic and strong. The Husky gets my vote for Zombie apocalypse survival bike, in the event an XR650 is not available.

The Slant motor Husaberg 570 is surprisingly worthy of this as well. The RF4 top end is durable, they are very low vibration engines, and the single oil supply (1.5 quarts) is a snap to change and has decent capacity. The trans is very wide ratio, 70 mph cruising is easy. The stock seat is a weapon of ass destruction though, they need a fan kit added, and the FI needs to be set up with a filter and maybe a fuel pump depending on year. They are solid bikes though, 211 watts of stator output, so you can run accessories no problem. They have the appeal of ludicrous wheelie prone power. Very fun engine. Used prices are lower than a comparable KTM too. They are a good value. People like to check out my 'Berg all the time on the trail. You don't see them every day, and yet they are 90% KTM, so they are not nearly as exotic as they seem.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:15 AM   #25240
Taranis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esp41 View Post
I'm leaving for my TAT run in two weeks. Bike has been gone through front to rear (New wheel bearing, sprockets, chain, cam chain, lube everything, reinforced rear rack and way to many farkles to mention).

What bike specific (2006 TE610) spare parts would you carry. Voltage regulator? Capacitor for jumping the bike if the battery (LiPo) dies?

I have the usual extra master link, tire tube and patch kit, etc. I am only wondering what might break on thebike that would be hard to acquire on the road.

Mike
Check the carb boot to the head. Make sure it's not cracking.

I'd have the VR. It goes out on a lot of bikes. Also, make sure your farkles don't include too many LED lights. You want some incandescent bulbs on the bike to help the voltage regulator do its job. This is especially critical with the LiPo, as overvoltage can take them down faster than lead-acid.

I have a carb bike like you, so I didn't pay much attention to the capacitor thread, but I thought it was just for the fuelies to be able to be bump-started - it sustains voltage to the ECU in between stator cycles. Since you will have to jump yours with the Rekluse, you don't have to worry about that, and the other bike's battery should cover it in any case.

You didn't mention steering stem bearings. Go through that area.

Add reinforcements to the chain roller bosses if you haven't.

Take a front sprocket or two and be sure someone in the group has the snap ring pliers to change it.

Little stuff you didn't mention like crush washers for oil changes, fuses, etc.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:05 AM   #25241
uska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Check the carb boot to the head. Make sure it's not cracking.

I'd have the VR. It goes out on a lot of bikes. Also, make sure your farkles don't include too many LED lights. You want some incandescent bulbs on the bike to help the voltage regulator do its job. This is especially critical with the LiPo, as overvoltage can take them down faster than lead-acid.

I have a carb bike like you, so I didn't pay much attention to the capacitor thread, but I thought it was just for the fuelies to be able to be bump-started - it sustains voltage to the ECU in between stator cycles. Since you will have to jump yours with the Rekluse, you don't have to worry about that, and the other bike's battery should cover it in any case.

You didn't mention steering stem bearings. Go through that area.

Add reinforcements to the chain roller bosses if you haven't.

Take a front sprocket or two and be sure someone in the group has the snap ring pliers to change it.

Little stuff you didn't mention like crush washers for oil changes, fuses, etc.
I remove my snap rings with a small set of screw drivers with not much effort For me, a special tool for it, would just be unnecessary weight to carry.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:33 AM   #25242
larryboy
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Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
Never mind.

So I figured out the issue with my bike. The spark plug boot is cracked on the inside where it slips over the plug. So I guess I need a new boot and the coil too? Or can I just replace the wire and boot. I see no way to remove the wire from the coil?? Help!!

Look for the NGK spark plug boot, it's hard plastic and will screw onto your coil wire. They make a bunch of different sizes to fit most anything:

http://www.bikebandit.com/ngk-plug-caps



Quote:
Originally Posted by esp41 View Post
I am not sure how many sets of brake pads I will use up either. I am not going to set any speed records on this trip, I want to enjoy the journey, not the destination.

Mike

Don't bother, I carried brake pads with me and returned home with the pads still good on the bike at 20,000 miles.


Sounds like you're pretty much ready. I saw that somebody mentioned it, but we were throwing a lot of stuff at you. The chain roller that is nearest the engine and above the chain, it will break off and the chain will hit the case without this roller.


I still have no clue why it's a source of pride in this thread to have a 20,000 mile bike with the stock cam follower bearings in there, they're $35, it's not a KLR and you can't tell they're bad if you don't knock the pin out to check for wear.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:49 PM   #25243
bobnoxious67
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Personally, if my bike is otherwise fine, valves are staying in spec, engine runs great with no noises...why the hell do I want to take it all apart to point at something so I can say "OMG, this part is out of spec per the (translated very poorly) service manual"??

Judging from your (larryboy) past pictures (clogged/disintegrated/wasted oil screen) I would say you had an oiling problem, which would explain your (premature) top end problems.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:59 PM   #25244
esp41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
Check the carb boot to the head. Make sure it's not cracking.

Mine was cracked, so I replaced it.

I'd have the VR. It goes out on a lot of bikes. Also, make sure your farkles don't include too many LED lights. You want some incandescent bulbs on the bike to help the voltage regulator do its job. This is especially critical with the LiPo, as overvoltage can take them down faster than lead-acid.

The voltage rectifier on the right side of the bike? Or the "Electronic Device" in front of the battery? BTW what exactly is the "electronic device" (as it is called in the parts fiche part # 8000 A4999-; ECU??). I did keep two incandescent bulbs on the rear blinkers. I also have a Lynx Fairing (One halogen, one HID light). Oh yeah, and heated grips

I have a carb bike like you, so I didn't pay much attention to the capacitor thread, but I thought it was just for the fuelies to be able to be bump-started - it sustains voltage to the ECU in between stator cycles. Since you will have to jump yours with the Rekluse, you don't have to worry about that, and the other bike's battery should cover it in any case.

When my factory battery died my bike stopped dead. I was moving at the time when it died. A new battery and all was well.

You didn't mention steering stem bearings. Go through that area.

BTDT - bearings were in great shape

Add reinforcements to the chain roller bosses if you haven't.

Hmmmm. Previous Owner put a BRP roller on the back swing arm. The front roller looks like it might have a little extra weld. I am too close to leaving to mess with it, so this one goes into the "pray fro the best" category.

Take a front sprocket or two and be sure someone in the group has the snap ring pliers to change it.

Iron man rear sprocket and two front sprockets. I am also switching to a master link chain and carrying a spare master link. I am thinking a master link will make trail repairs easier.

Little stuff you didn't mention like crush washers for oil changes, fuses, etc.
Oh yeah, lots of little stuff. Oil filters, JB weld, WD40 (doubles as chain lube), spit, toilet paper, duct tape, a wing and a prayer. I have to admit I am probably way over thinking all this, but I can't help myself. Having everyone here check my work is great- so thanks all.

Mike
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:39 PM   #25245
pete613
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Hey everybody, I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before but on my 2009 TE610, when at a stoplight or coasting (at idle in gear) the bike will randomly shut off when the clutch is pulled in all the way. It does not feel that the bike is stalling out, it just shuts off as if I turned off the ignition.

Does anybody have any clue of what this could be?

Thanks, Pete
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