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Old 06-22-2013, 07:21 PM   #25291
1 lunger
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Originally Posted by uska View Post
So no luck in letting go of the husky? or changed your mind about selling like i did? :) btw nice gas cap! where did you buy it from?
No sense in selling it now with the fire sale Husqy has going on. I love the 610 and know ill never replace it. I'll just keep it and get a 300 2t. I got the gas cap from a guy on CH that made a few. Look on the 610/630 thread for aftermarket gas cap. It was $120 shipped and worth it! Very good design! No more leaking when I tip over and no way water will get it when washing the bike. Looks like the crack from the failed wheelie needs some JD weld? Is that the clutch side?
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:56 AM   #25292
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:07 AM   #25293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
As i had my valve cover off due to an oil leak through the sealant, i noticed the gear/timing chain seemed to rub a little bit on the cover. Is this normal?

That looks like normal factory machining
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:58 AM   #25294
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Originally Posted by bobnoxious67 View Post
That looks like normal factory machining

Thats good to hear then, because I thought that happened from the chain rubbing it.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:17 AM   #25295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 lunger View Post
No sense in selling it now with the fire sale Husqy has going on. I love the 610 and know ill never replace it. I'll just keep it and get a 300 2t. I got the gas cap from a guy on CH that made a few. Look on the 610/630 thread for aftermarket gas cap. It was $120 shipped and worth it! Very good design! No more leaking when I tip over and no way water will get it when washing the bike. Looks like the crack from the failed wheelie needs some JD weld? Is that the clutch side?
I dont think my gas cap leaks, and i never top it off, because then the fuel would seep out of the breather hose up on top. Yes that's the clutch side cover and its already JB welded. :) I got my clutch apart to replace the cups and 3 springs were already loose in there but all still there, just really thin. (4000miles)

Is it worth buying a riveter tool and put the rivets in myself or is it pretty tough to get them done? local bike shop charges a $40 minimum (half an hr) and they said it may take over an hour to do? for 3 rivets?

One thing i was really confused on was the woodruff key. Got the gears off the crank and only thing i found was a ~1cm long, small metal piece on the shaft. the woodruff key I got from my husky dealer is just a couple mm's long. Did i not get the right key from the dealer or did i not find the right place where it mounts?

Thanks
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:17 PM   #25296
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No tool needed, just a metal punch and hammer. It takes 2 people to do it. If you're handy then do it, if not, $40 for the peace of mind is worth it. As for the woodruff key, I haven't touched mine, so I'm not sure of the size.
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Old 06-24-2013, 09:27 PM   #25297
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If you take the clutch basket to a clutch and brake repair shop they can normally do the rivets quite quickly and cheaply as they are set up for it all the time, often using a pnumatic punch etc. You want it done properly!
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:55 AM   #25298
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Hi Everyone

Just purchased a fellow inmate 2008 Te610 with only 4k on the clock.

If someone wouldn't mind taking the time to point me in the direction of some "required" modifications (sorry I hate the word farkles).

Thanks so much
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:34 PM   #25299
stujamur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
I dont think my gas cap leaks, and i never top it off, because then the fuel would seep out of the breather hose up on top. Yes that's the clutch side cover and its already JB welded. :) I got my clutch apart to replace the cups and 3 springs were already loose in there but all still there, just really thin. (4000miles)

Is it worth buying a riveter tool and put the rivets in myself or is it pretty tough to get them done? local bike shop charges a $40 minimum (half an hr) and they said it may take over an hour to do? for 3 rivets?

One thing i was really confused on was the woodruff key. Got the gears off the crank and only thing i found was a ~1cm long, small metal piece on the shaft. the woodruff key I got from my husky dealer is just a couple mm's long. Did i not get the right key from the dealer or did i not find the right place where it mounts?

Thanks
Woodruff key is called a no9 key . It is moon shaped / half small coin . More info here
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...usky+Husqvarna
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:24 AM   #25300
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When i hammer the rivets, do i finish each at a time or go little by little so it aligns more evenly?
Ive seen that link about the key and i did buy a no9 piece, i just cannot find it anywhere on the clutch side??

Thanks.

uska screwed with this post 06-26-2013 at 07:26 AM
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:26 AM   #25301
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
As i had my valve cover off due to an oil leak through the sealant, i noticed the gear/timing chain seemed to rub a little bit on the cover. Is this normal?


Not normal, looks like a worn cam bearing...replace the bearings.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:03 AM   #25302
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Any TE610 owners in the San Diego area? If so please pm me.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:31 PM   #25303
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Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Not normal, looks like a worn cam bearing...replace the bearings.
S*it, just had everything nicely sealed up a few days ago.
Hmmm.. That requires to remove the flywheel and timing chain right? :(

How safe is it to ride it as is for a few days? I have a trip planned out on July 4th that i would hate to miss.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:44 PM   #25304
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Spoke with Hall's Cycles and they told me it could've happened from timing chain being too loose. Going to install my oem tensioner and see whats up.

Would it be normal for them bearings to give out after 4k miles?
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:40 PM   #25305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Spoke with Hall's Cycles and they told me it could've happened from timing chain being too loose. Going to install my oem tensioner and see whats up.

Would it be normal for them bearings to give out after 4k miles?
If the chain had caused this, at all ( worn bearings ), it would not have worn a smooth surface. It would have left a wear pattern that matched the outside profile of the chain. Meaning you would be able to see where the link pin heads were contacting the rocker box. That is just machine cut made during manufacture to insure the sprocket and chain had clearance in the rocker box.

Be sure to retract the tensioner to install and release after the mount bolts are tight.
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