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Old 06-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #25306
larryboy
Chopper Rider
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 14,246
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
If the chain had caused this, at all ( worn bearings ), it would not have worn a smooth surface. It would have left a wear pattern that matched the outside profile of the chain. Meaning you would be able to see where the link pin heads were contacting the rocker box. That is just machine cut made during manufacture to insure the sprocket and chain had clearance in the rocker box.

Could be. I remember in the early 610 days that there were a few seized cam bearings and that wear looks like a bearing just starting to shift around lightly touching the side...I agree that a catastrophic failure would have deep gouges and marks from the pins. Err to the side of caution OP, a couple of bearings are a lot cheaper than a new cam.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:01 PM   #25307
g.mccormick
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Joined: Jul 2010
Location: New Whiteland, IN
Oddometer: 145
Coolant Hose clamps

Does anyone know the sizes needed for the coolant hose clamps? I'm wanting to either mcmaster carr some or pic some up on the way home from work.
Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:35 PM   #25308
stujamur
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Brisbane north side
Oddometer: 1,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whec716 View Post
Hi Everyone

Just purchased a fellow inmate 2008 Te610 with only 4k on the clock.

If someone wouldn't mind taking the time to point me in the direction of some "required" modifications (sorry I hate the word farkles).

Thanks so much
Not sure if anyone answered you .

Week areas to keep an eye or address b4 further issues ( google these and you should get more detail )

1. Clutch cable - check alignment for easier pull and less wear.
2. Clutch cush spring washers wear out quick and end coming apart. Replace with hardened steel from indy unlimited .3. Woodruff key known to shear if cs nut is not torqued up.
4. Subframe weak for heavy loads.
5.mating surface from pegs to frame is not good - take off pegs and grind surfaces so more area makes good contact.
6. Dbl check all nut n bolts - especially engine to frame .
7. Spinning bolts on air box can have clips attatched to tighten.
8. Check air box seal and vent to rocker head is connected as to not dust motor

Comfort mods .
1. Seat
2.bar risers if tall.
3. Pivot pegz if thats your things.

Performance .
1.power up kit - or new pipe n re map.
2. Suspension revalve to suit your weight / style .
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:54 PM   #25309
1 lunger
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Bloomfield CT
Oddometer: 1,216
Quote:
Originally Posted by g.mccormick View Post
Does anyone know the sizes needed for the coolant hose clamps? I'm wanting to either mcmaster carr some or pic some up on the way home from work.
Thanks
Not sure, but at least 1" maybe 1 1/4" hose.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:49 PM   #25310
mrkartoom
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: northeast/western mass
Oddometer: 828
I'll throw a couple more at you:

1. Check the splines on the countershaft for wear. Shaft hardening or lack thereof and excess play in the stock sprocket has been suspected as culprits. Many of us swapped sprockets for ones w/tighter tolerance (Renthal, Motosportz, etc.).

2. Check the timing chain for wear. Many of us dropped the auto adjust tensioner that always grabbed an extra tooth too many for manual tensioners. Many folks were burning thru chains in 3000mi.

3. Also check to see if the battery tray has been gusseted by the previous owner. If not and you do any serious off road the weight of the big battery will cause it to crack for sure. If not take it to a welder and add some gussetts. Picks in this forum from mine somewhere way back in time.

Good luck and enjoy a great DS bike!



Quote:
Originally Posted by stujamur View Post
Not sure if anyone answered you .

Week areas to keep an eye or address b4 further issues ( google these and you should get more detail )

1. Clutch cable - check alignment for easier pull and less wear.
2. Clutch cush spring washers wear out quick and end coming apart. Replace with hardened steel from indy unlimited .3. Woodruff key known to shear if cs nut is not torqued up.
4. Subframe weak for heavy loads.
5.mating surface from pegs to frame is not good - take off pegs and grind surfaces so more area makes good contact.
6. Dbl check all nut n bolts - especially engine to frame .
7. Spinning bolts on air box can have clips attatched to tighten.
8. Check air box seal and vent to rocker head is connected as to not dust motor

Comfort mods .
1. Seat
2.bar risers if tall.
3. Pivot pegz if thats your things.

Performance .
1.power up kit - or new pipe n re map.
2. Suspension revalve to suit your weight / style .
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:33 AM   #25311
Taranis
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: LBC, yo.
Oddometer: 359
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkartoom View Post
I'll throw a couple more at you:

1. Check the splines on the countershaft for wear. Shaft hardening or lack thereof and excess play in the stock sprocket has been suspected as culprits. Many of us swapped sprockets for ones w/tighter tolerance (Renthal, Motosportz, etc.).
The actual solution to this, and maybe to the clutch hub spring cups, faster chain and sprocket wear than other bikes, and probably a few other things is a cush hub rear wheel. I believe it's possible to adapt a rear wheel from an '00-05 TE610E, but couldn't find one on Ebay. Some of the components have been discontinued. I ended up going with a Rad cush wheel. If you do this, get it laced up with a DID 18x2.5-in rim, as that is the only one that has the spoke holes drilled to be compatible with the different brake and drive side spoke angles.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:44 AM   #25312
larryboy
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: On a set of 50,000 mile tires.
Oddometer: 14,246
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taranis View Post
The actual solution to this, and maybe to the clutch hub spring cups, faster chain and sprocket wear than other bikes, and probably a few other things is a cush hub rear wheel. I believe it's possible to adapt a rear wheel from an '00-05 TE610E, but couldn't find one on Ebay. Some of the components have been discontinued. I ended up going with a Rad cush wheel. If you do this, get it laced up with a DID 18x2.5-in rim, as that is the only one that has the spoke holes drilled to be compatible with the different brake and drive side spoke angles.

Yeah, it really needs a cush somewhere in the drivetrain and what they tried to do with the clutch didn't work. Woody's Wheel Works developed a bolt on cush wheel for the 610, not sure if anybody bought one. I never had faster chain and sprocket wear, but that's probably because I was breaking spokes.

I noticed that a cush drive wheel is an option for the new Beta's, glad somebody is paying attention.
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:35 PM   #25313
uska
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: chicago
Oddometer: 129
help!

Please tell me this plug does not plug into anything. I cant find a place for it. Hrrrr..

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Old 06-28-2013, 07:59 PM   #25314
uska
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Please tell me this plug does not plug into anything. I cant find a place for it. Hrrrr..

Please ignore. Found it!
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:03 AM   #25315
JonXX
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Location: OR's hub of wine-tasting soccer moms
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkartoom View Post
I'll throw a couple more at you:

3. Also check to see if the battery tray has been gusseted by the previous owner. If not and you do any serious off road the weight of the big battery will cause it to crack for sure. If not take it to a welder and add some gussetts. Picks in this forum from mine somewhere way back in time.

Good luck and enjoy a great DS bike!
Or spend a smart $160 on an ultra-lightweight Shorai battery. Then you'll also have room for a small basic toolkit or "stuff box" next to the battery.
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:30 PM   #25316
uska
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Location: chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonXX View Post
Or spend a smart $160 on an ultra-lightweight Shorai battery. Then you'll also have room for a small basic toolkit or "stuff box" next to the battery.
Thats an excellent idea, shouldve thought of that long time ago. Could push the battery to one of the corners so you'd have a bit room. Heres how mine is at the moment.



Let me hijack the topic abit. Is the rear brake a bit on the weaker side or what? Just bled it and replaced new pads and its still hard to lock up the wheel on pavement. Im on 17's at the moment though.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:53 PM   #25317
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Selling my 2007 TE610

Well I am finally selling my 2007 TE610. Moving to the Caribbean islands in July, no need for this bike anymore. If nothing else, this flea market listing gives you a detailed list of potential mods, some of which are one of a kind (like the HDB damper mount for Scott damper), most are not.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7280


This has been my all time favorite bike and totally reliable and capable. I ride this on gnarly trails, commute on highway the same day. After too much trail action I got a TE450 to prolong the 610 lifespan. :-). It has thousands of miles off road in Moab and Death Valley, Oregon, Idaho, BC, WA, and going strong today with no breakage. Did the 2-day Black Dog DS ride in Hood River OR a few weeks ago.

1 cam chain replacement so far, upper roller breakoff, new rear plastic, new speedo, and a central coolant hose. Nothing else has broke over 17K miles and all that dirt and highway. Valves barely moved. Check it out.

The TE610 speedo thread has lots of detail on the headlight/speedo changeout, and this thread has much of my HDB changes. The online albums linked in the post has loads of pics of the parts installation.

My favorite mods to this are the IMS tank, LT Racing tuned suspension, worth every cent, the HDB bar clamps and guards in combo with the steering damper and Lynx fairing with dual Hella HID lights.

- Mike
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:55 PM   #25318
K7MDL
TE450, TE610
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Snohomish, WA
Oddometer: 1,552
Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Let me hijack the topic abit. Is the rear brake a bit on the weaker side or what? Just bled it and replaced new pads and its still hard to lock up the wheel on pavement. Im on 17's at the moment though.
With D606 rubber I can lock it up at speed on pavement, easier on dirt of course. Not overly easy to lock up but quite possible. I find it is perfect. Too much and you are skidding out too fast in a panic stop. Plenty of stopping power in my commuting over the last 15K miles. Well balanced with the front power.

K7MDL screwed with this post 06-29-2013 at 10:01 PM
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:23 PM   #25319
JonXX
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Location: OR's hub of wine-tasting soccer moms
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by uska View Post
Thats an excellent idea, shouldve thought of that long time ago. Could push the battery to one of the corners so you'd have a bit room. Heres how mine is at the moment.
Yep a buddy has a stuff box, I have a padded spot where I keep my phone.

Quote:
Let me hijack the topic abit. Is the rear brake a bit on the weaker side or what? Just bled it and replaced new pads and its still hard to lock up the wheel on pavement. Im on 17's at the moment though.
I can slide the rear on my SM at will, no matter which tire I've got on it. I don't know if the rear calipers and rotors are different SM-TE though. I use EBC HH-formula pads on both ends.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #25320
Whitfield
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Chesterfield Co
Oddometer: 194



Busted my side cover on a stump yesterday. Pushed a thumb print size chunk of it up into the rotor/flywheel and cracked around the 2 lower bolt flange webbing. Looks like the inner starter cover survived.

Questions:

1. Any suggestions on a dealer that may have the outer rotor / starter cover in stock? I'm new to the husky and have yet to chase parts.

2. Skidplate ~ I like to looks of the Uptite but is there anything better? Is George still making the Uptite skids for the 610?



Thanks,
Michael

Whitfield screwed with this post 06-30-2013 at 10:37 AM
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