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Old 04-17-2014, 07:26 PM   #26326
aaron2a
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: canton, ms
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Ok guys... When I hit a deer on my 08 sm610 the front fender drug on the asphalt and I need a new one. The problem is it has aftermarket black plastics and I can't seem to find them in black. My google-fu seems to be letting me down so any help would be much appreciated in locating a black front fender for my bike.


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Old 04-18-2014, 03:59 AM   #26327
g.mccormick
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Location: New Whiteland, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron2a View Post
Ok guys... When I hit a deer on my 08 sm610 the front fender drug on the asphalt and I need a new one. The problem is it has aftermarket black plastics and I can't seem to find them in black. My google-fu seems to be letting me down so any help would be much appreciated in locating a black front fender for my bike.


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I thought the SMs came in black. Are you sure the fender is not an oem one?
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:00 PM   #26328
aaron2a
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I'm positive... It came in grey which I have the full set of grey plastics but I like the aftermarket black ones better
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:34 PM   #26329
Hoder
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Location: Buckley, Washington
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For Sale In Washington



$4500
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/mcy/4429753968.html
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:50 PM   #26330
Ross Shafer
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Sliders are shipping again. The pre-order price of $105 is still good through the end of April. Price goes to $120 on May 1 (shipping within the US included). Spare puck sets are available for $20 if ordered with your sliders, $25 if ordered alone (shipping inc.).

Happy Easter!

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Old 04-19-2014, 03:20 PM   #26331
esp41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Griffinav8 View Post
I am new to adventure rider and need a bike for the TAT. I want to spend between 3k to 3500 for a husqvarna te 610 has anyone done the ride on one? We will be doing the TAT from Eastern Oklahoma to Central Nevada.anyone willing to sell there 610?
I did the full length of the TAT on an 06 TE610 last year. The bike did great. I jetted the bike at my home elevation (500ft), so it was wheezing on the 12,000ft passes in CO, but it still got the job done.

I paid just over 4k for my bike (bought it three years ago). I did spend a bunch to get it TAT ready(something to factor into your budget)
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Old 04-19-2014, 04:30 PM   #26332
Baroquenride
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Location: Clark Co, WA
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Question Engine to frame bolt?

I just got home from a ride today and noticed that I'm missing the engine to frame bolt. This is the bolt or bolts that goes through the frame on the front side of the triangle pieces. Is it just one bolt or is it two on each side? What are you guys recommending? Seems like I would be fine with using 2 grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, but yet with the vibration issue maybe one long bolt is better? If so, I'd have to order that. It'll be down for awhile for some much needed maintenance so I don't mind waiting.
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Baroquenride screwed with this post 04-19-2014 at 04:31 PM Reason: Engine to frame bolt?
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Old 04-19-2014, 05:31 PM   #26333
aaron2a
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Ooh... Not sure about bolt recommendation but I almost had the same thing happen. Luckily I caught it with just the nut missing.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:18 AM   #26334
Taranis
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Location: LBC, yo.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baroquenride View Post
I just got home from a ride today and noticed that I'm missing the engine to frame bolt. This is the bolt or bolts that goes through the frame on the front side of the triangle pieces. Is it just one bolt or is it two on each side? What are you guys recommending? Seems like I would be fine with using 2 grade 5 or grade 8 bolts, but yet with the vibration issue maybe one long bolt is better? If so, I'd have to order that. It'll be down for awhile for some much needed maintenance so I don't mind waiting.
Grade 5 and grade 8 are meaningless in metric. Get some grade 10.9 or better flange head bolts. I have always had good luck receiving quality hardware from Fastenal. Anything of appropriate length and diameter that you pull off a Toyota or Honda car in a junk yard is likely to be of outstanding quality. If you want to overkill it, use ARP. In any case, use Loctite.

In general, I have been very unimpressed with the OE bolts on the Husky. Most of them have no markings of any kind to indicate the grade or manufacturer, so it is best to assume they are made of hardened silly putty.

Engine mount bolts falling out of TE610s is common, especially the very top one that goes through the cam carrier. I would use blue Loctite on all of them.
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:41 AM   #26335
jondirt
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: New York City and Berlin
Oddometer: 37
TE610 in New Zealand

I just completed a trip on my TE610 from Fairlie to Auckland.

Here's an image I pulled from my GoPro:



The TE610 is such a blast for these types of adventures. I uploaded a full trip report on www.advtrail.com.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:10 PM   #26336
nomadb
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Location: Where Continents Meet
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Front right shock leaking oil

Hello All,
I have an 2009 TE610. I have used it mostly on trails and dirt.
I have noticed today there was oil leaking from the front right shock absorber.
Since I have neoprene shock absorber socks (protectors) I was not able to see clearly what went wrong.

I would appreciate the views of you who has done any work at the front shock absorbers about where to start.

Regards
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:05 PM   #26337
Xcuvator
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Location: Skolls Or
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomadb View Post
Hello All,
I have an 2009 TE610. I have used it mostly on trails and dirt.
I have noticed today there was oil leaking from the front right shock absorber.
Since I have neoprene shock absorber socks (protectors) I was not able to see clearly what went wrong.

I would appreciate the views of you who has done any work at the front shock absorbers about where to start.

Regards
Google up " utube cleaning front fork seals" or something similar. I use a piece if 35mm film to slide in between the seal and slider to pull the dirt out.
If that doesn't work its time to change them.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:49 PM   #26338
g.mccormick
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Location: New Whiteland, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoder View Post


Where did you get the white plastics from?
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:20 PM   #26339
DualsportWA
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Pacific NW
Oddometer: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
Google up " utube cleaning front fork seals" or something similar. I use a piece if 35mm film to slide in between the seal and slider to pull the dirt out.
If that doesn't work its time to change them.
This worked on my 2009 Te-610. I used the fork saver tool (thin plastic piece with "hook"). I had leaks on both forks - now dry as a bone!
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:02 PM   #26340
BiG DoM
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Location: South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualsportWA View Post
This worked on my 2009 Te-610. I used the fork saver tool (thin plastic piece with "hook"). I had leaks on both forks - now dry as a bone!
Called the Seal Mate - made by Motion Pro.
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