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Old 09-04-2008, 08:05 AM   #7501
BikeSDP
Detroit Leanin'
 
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Longmont, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders Green
I'm trying to mount up some Acerbis hand guards on my 2008 TE610... the bar-end hardware worked fine, but the clamps that go near the center are designed for a non-tapered bar. Does anyone know where to get some clamps that will work for that? Or perhaps an Acerbis part number?
I just bought a set of the Rally Pro and I saw two optional mounts. One is for Magura/Renthal Twinwall and the other for ProTaper. I bought some high bend ProTaper bars as well. Unfortunately, I don't have any of this yet to be able to tell you if the ProTaper clamps will fit the stock bar.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:21 PM   #7502
druboyd
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Location: Sedro Woolley Washington
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Any tips on my first (not the bike's first) oil change? The past owner was using mobil 1 10w50 four stroke. I can't get that but I can get a ktm 10w50 full syn. Any pointers on filter removal/install, are there multiple o rings, or additional screens? I will have about 10 hours on this oil, is that what everyone else is running between oil changes? Any tips would be welcome, the bike did not come with an owners manual. It's a 2006 te 510.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:39 PM   #7503
Ruffus
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Location: Fort Erie,Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druboyd
Any tips on my first (not the bike's first) oil change? The past owner was using mobil 1 10w50 four stroke. I can't get that but I can get a ktm 10w50 full syn. Any pointers on filter removal/install, are there multiple o rings, or additional screens? I will have about 10 hours on this oil, is that what everyone else is running between oil changes? Any tips would be welcome, the bike did not come with an owners manual. It's a 2006 te 510.
I get my oil from WalMart, Mobil I 20-50 from the automotive section. If the oils been changed already, the forward screen shouldn't be too bad, first time I did mine, it was so tight I was scared of stripping it. Keep an eye on how the screens come out, take a picture if you have to. Keep an eye on the washer on the drain plug, it can stick to the case, then drop off when you don't expect it. Don't use the little oil level check screw, just change filter, make sure everything is totally drained, then add proper amount. Very easy & can be done in about 10 minutes, check the screens for debris & clean them with solvent & a brush (tooth brush works great) Compressed air is nice to air dry them. I level my bike, undo the drain plug, let it drain, then put it on the kick stand & open the screens, lots more oil to drain out, then I do the filter, then button it all back together & add oil.
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Old 09-04-2008, 12:54 PM   #7504
drrags
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Location: Reno, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druboyd
Any tips on my first (not the bike's first) oil change? The past owner was using mobil 1 10w50 four stroke. I can't get that but I can get a ktm 10w50 full syn. Any pointers on filter removal/install, are there multiple o rings, or additional screens? I will have about 10 hours on this oil, is that what everyone else is running between oil changes? Any tips would be welcome, the bike did not come with an owners manual. It's a 2006 te 510.
I use Elf or Motorex because they are designed for wet clutches. Using Mobil 1 made it hard to put into first gear when cold, and makes finding neutral impossible. My KTM 640 was especially bad. I'd start it up in the morning, pull in the clutch and snick it into 1st and off I'd go into the sunset with the clutch lever still pulled all the way in. That was the last time I used automotive oil.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:04 PM   #7505
BigAls
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oil chang

Ruffas has it right on. Most of us just do the dual screens on the left side. Most people don't bother with removing the right side cover to get at that screen. But I did, there was nothing in it, so just follow what Ruffas says.





Quote:
Originally Posted by druboyd
Any tips on my first (not the bike's first) oil change? The past owner was using mobil 1 10w50 four stroke. I can't get that but I can get a ktm 10w50 full syn. Any pointers on filter removal/install, are there multiple o rings, or additional screens? I will have about 10 hours on this oil, is that what everyone else is running between oil changes? Any tips would be welcome, the bike did not come with an owners manual. It's a 2006 te 510.
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:31 PM   #7506
Anders Green
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAls
Most of us just do the dual screens on the left side.
Ok, so where exactly is this thing? I "only" have the owner's manual, not a workshop manual. What do I need to pull off and where is the screen once I do that? Any new gaskets required? Pictures?

Thanks,
Anders
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:36 PM   #7507
Ruffus
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Fort Erie,Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by druboyd
Any tips on my first (not the bike's first) oil change? The past owner was using mobil 1 10w50 four stroke. I can't get that but I can get a ktm 10w50 full syn. Any pointers on filter removal/install, are there multiple o rings, or additional screens? I will have about 10 hours on this oil, is that what everyone else is running between oil changes? Any tips would be welcome, the bike did not come with an owners manual. It's a 2006 te 510.
I sent you 2 PM's. let me know if you get them, I had some trouble sending
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can feel the true warmth.: wisdom by ??



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06 Husky TE510
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:05 PM   #7508
druboyd
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Thanks everyone for the input! When I change the oil I'll let you know how it went!
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:29 PM   #7509
hodgecobbler
formerly Palmczak
 
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Hmm, Unsure really...
Oddometer: 166
Tommaselli close to magura

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders Green
I'm trying to mount up some Acerbis hand guards on my 2008 TE610... the bar-end hardware worked fine, but the clamps that go near the center are designed for a non-tapered bar. Does anyone know where to get some clamps that will work for that? Or perhaps an Acerbis part number?

Cheers,
Anders
I mounted Tusk hand guards but the clamps that mount in the center were for a Magura bars. I tried many different clamps these fit best to the stock tomasselli bars.

Joe
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:32 PM   #7510
hodgecobbler
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Location: Hmm, Unsure really...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders Green
Ok, so where exactly is this thing? I "only" have the owner's manual, not a workshop manual. What do I need to pull off and where is the screen once I do that? Any new gaskets required? Pictures?

Thanks,
Anders
It has it's own cover. It is right infront of the left foot peg. If I remember correcty it has 3 bolts sort of a triangle shaped cover.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:50 PM   #7511
bass_on_tap
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Location: Ro' di-lan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmczak
It has it's own cover. It is right infront of the left foot peg. If I remember correcty it has 3 bolts sort of a triangle shaped cover.
Two bolts hold a sort of round, roughly 1" diameter cover, right behind the shift lever. Cover has two "O" rings to seal it up attached to the inside of the cover. Oil will come out when the cover is loosened. Stick you finger into the center of the screens, pull them out and clean them. When re-installing, you may have to play with them some to get them all the way in, past the edge of the case. Re-install cover and add your oil. I clean mine every 1000 miles.
The other screen is smaller and is on the brake or right side of the engine. You have to take off the side case cover to get to it. Down low and in front of the clutch. Seldom is there any dirt or metal on this one so I don't bother cleaning it after the first oil change. I may clean it again in a couple 1000 miles. You can reuse the side cover gasket

bass_on_tap screwed with this post 09-04-2008 at 06:00 PM
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:10 PM   #7512
SwitchThrottle
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I am amazed at the way this thread just goes and goes. Long live Husky!!! Okay...here is my question. I am riding a 08' SM450R, and did my valve checks. Husky says .15 to .20 is spec on the exhaust side. One of mine is commin in around .223 (which is out of spec by 2/100ths too much). Based on my limited knowledge....I am thinking that if it is out on the high side, it means that the valve is not staying open long enough. Is my reasoning correct? My guess would be that if it was too tight, that the valve would remain open, and burn. Am I right in my reasoning?
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Old 09-04-2008, 06:47 PM   #7513
Xfool
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bass_on_tap
Anyone have the part numbers for Galfer brake pads, both front and rear? Also, are you using the Semi-Metallic Carbon Compound or the Advance Ceramic Full Metallic HH Compound? Thanks Dave
The stock front brake pads were way to touchy/honky for me. I am using Galfer greens and like them allot on the front YMMV. You can cross the part numbers over if you really want metallic pads.

Front: Galfer green FD138G1532
Rear: Galfer black FD165G1054
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:05 PM   #7514
motometal
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Baja, Motorcycle Heaven
Oddometer: 3,443
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchThrottle
I am amazed at the way this thread just goes and goes. Long live Husky!!! Okay...here is my question. I am riding a 08' SM450R, and did my valve checks. Husky says .15 to .20 is spec on the exhaust side. One of mine is commin in around .223 (which is out of spec by 2/100ths too much). Based on my limited knowledge....I am thinking that if it is out on the high side, it means that the valve is not staying open long enough. Is my reasoning correct? My guess would be that if it was too tight, that the valve would remain open, and burn. Am I right in my reasoning?
you are on the right track, better to be a bit loos than too tight. But not a bad idea to get it within the spec.

some people think if the lash is a bit loose they will sacrifice power...if you do the math, it would have to be very loose to affect lift and duration enough to be noticeable.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:17 PM   #7515
SwitchThrottle
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Thanks motometal. I want to get it in spec, but the multi shim kit didn't come with anything larger than 2.35 which is what is in the bucket of the valve that needs adjusting. I need to get a pack of 2.40 shims.
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