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Old 05-14-2011, 06:26 AM   #1531
dunno_where
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Originally Posted by Fogo72 View Post
Did you buy brand new, and if so how much?
Fogo...
Bought it NEW from a seller on ebay. I bought it for about $310 AUS and about $50 AUS postage from Italy. Took about 4 weeks delievery.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Exhaust-S...item20af4ed66e
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Old 05-17-2011, 09:50 AM   #1532
Petrolburner
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I put 10 wt oil in the forks and a DRZ 400 shock in the rear with a 500lbs Eibach spring. Pretty good setup. I still bottom the rear out and the tire hits the fender. Does anyone else with the DRZ shock have this issue? Do you have the DRZ bumpstop? I had to make a new one out of rubber suspension bushings. If I make the bumpstop any taller it will hit too early and since it is rubber it kicks back. I imagine it would not be good if it were too tall. Rear shock needs to be rebuilt to put on the right bumpstop, but I'm still not sure if it would be tall enough to prevent the rear tire from hitting the inner fender/battery box. I have the compression maxed out on the shock and I still want more, I have the rebound maxed out and I still want more. The bottom line is I can't ride it as fast as i want to solo because of the tire hitting the fender, and I can't ride fast at all loaded with a passenger and camping gear

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Old 05-17-2011, 10:42 AM   #1533
itsatdm
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I can tell by the pic you rider harder than I do. Yes I have bottomed the shock. Also have cracked the stamped bracing between the top tubes on the sub frame. That is a combination of age of the bike, flex and and the tire wacking it. I haven't hit the air box, but have modified the license plate with the tire.

There are a few things you can try with the shock, before a rebuild. I changed oil. Stock is 2.5 oil, I changed it out and replaced with the same. You can go to a heavier oil and see what effect that has. Don't overdo the viscosity, 10 wt is too heavy from experience.

These shocks came with 3 different size bladders in them. I have the longest one, on the advice of some one who sells them.

Despite Internet asking, I never got an answer as to the proper charge of Nitrogen. I think it is in the vicinity of 140#. If it is low, it makes a drastic change. You can experiment just using compressed air to see what effect it has.

You can shorten the dog bones on the suspension rocker. You may have to do that on your own as I am not sure the KLR ones work, post 2008 definitely do not, but not hard to fabricate. I made some out 1 1/4x 1/4 strap steel. Stock spacing of the holes are 124mm. Some where around 120mm ought to do it. That increases ride height and effective spring rate.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:52 AM   #1534
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I worried about cracking the subframe too from your posts, so I welded in some pretty good reinforcements. Removed about 95% of the twisting and flexing, so hopefully it won't fatigue and crack.



I think I'm going to try shorter dogbones like you said, the actual motion of the shock is not bad, I just need to limit the travel of it. I'm not looking to get the kind of air I do on my 125, but I need to be able to ride faster through the desert.

How do you change out the oil without rebuilding the shock?
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:11 PM   #1535
itsatdm
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Thanks for the pic of the bracing. I will do that next time, as I do not think my welding on the stock braces will last long.

To change the oil, take the spring off. Let the nitrogen out. With the shock upside down use a socket of the proper size and tap downward on the metal plate with the schrader valve until you expose a circlip. Remove the circlip. Use compressed air on the schrader valve and it will pop the metal plate out. Remove the bladder and that expose the oil.

Pour out the oil working the shock to get it all out. Reverse to reasemble, just put the metal plate in the groove of the bladder before installing.

Using heavier oil should get you more compression and rebound control out of the adjustment, but I tried 10 wt and it was too heavy. It would compress easily for part of the stroke and then act as if locked up. 5wt might be OK. When you refill, pump the shock to get the air out making sure there is always some oil in the bottom. Prepare to clean up the mess if you overfill it.
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itsatdm screwed with this post 05-17-2011 at 01:25 PM
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Old 05-17-2011, 03:19 PM   #1536
Petrolburner
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Originally Posted by itsatdm View Post
Thanks for the pic of the bracing. I will do that next time, as I do not think my welding on the stock braces will last long.
before




after






Just the two triangle gussets on each side, one big flat plate welded in to brace the arch. Also, along the 2 main tubes where the diameter suddenly gets smaller, I overlapped a piece of angle iron on each side.
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Old 05-17-2011, 03:44 PM   #1537
Myway
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How about revalving the DRZ

The DRZ is valved for a original 5.5 kg/mm spring. That is i think. 308 lbs /inch spring.

With only oil you never come to a good result.

I have a 542 spring on it, another shock, shockstroke, so another wheel travel. So another spring, ridersag and free sag. As original.

When i ask do you know your wheeltravel in your combination, nobody has an answer.

I asked here several, too find out data. Nobody knows!!!!!
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:26 PM   #1538
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How do you revalve it?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:27 AM   #1539
Myway
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Originally Posted by Petrolburner View Post
How do you revalve it?

By a suspension service center

tryed to find out on the internet, how to, where to buy.

All about free sag rider sag
much about springs
less about oil
almost nothing about shims.

DRZ bike for a rider
klx650R bike adjusment

less about
what wheeltravel, how to measure
what spring maximal springstroke must be > shockstroke + pre adjust spring.
mine is 134 mm-106,4 mm = 27,6 mm for pre adjustment (setting the rider sag) This is by every springrate different.

I also bought a cheap shock from another bike, then find out what spring i need, choose the wrong one, saw that i have a totaly different wheeltravel as i assumed ( because different shockstroke), so i had to take different sag (free, rider) numbers and at the end let it service to revalve.

Even cheaper than buy a totaly new one.

All people think about styling, sound than power, an less about suspension. (safety, hitting that one rock, that can change your live totaly, because a crappy suspension adjustment,) When you take your bike out an do more than average or in a accident situation hitting the street board.
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:07 AM   #1540
Myway
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Fiche all klx 650 models include australia and china


A B C D models
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:28 AM   #1541
Fogo72
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KLX650R tanks

Guys, just an update on the KLX650R group tank buy, Talking today again to Toby from Off Road Imports Australia and he has been talking to the Acerbis factory, they have been up the back shed and pulled out the mould for the "R" model and inspected it, it is still in good useable condition. At the moment they said they would do a run of no less than 40. We said no way and they agreed that they have done runs of 15 before, so that is where we are at. no firm price yet. If we can get 15 done Toby said he doesn't mine taking 10 for stock if we can sell off 5 straight away. He said he still gets quite a few people asking for the 17 litre tanks from time to time. So cross your fingers and start to spread the word to the "R" model owners you know.
Cheers Fogo..
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:12 PM   #1542
richarddacat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petrolburner View Post
How do you revalve it?
http://www.sasquatchrider.com/products.html
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:53 PM   #1543
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Count me in for a tank

I will buy one as long as the price is not too crazy high. If we could get them shipped to our door for under $500 that would be awesome =)
Thanks
Austin
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:37 PM   #1544
crspep
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DRZ shock

I'm running the 500# spring as well, I went with KLX 300 links [not sure what year] I think they're 115's though. [I'll have to double check] I can't say that the tire rubs at all at this point, but it puts the height up in the nose-bleeds. [helps that I'm 6'4] I re-valved the shock once already, and it's pretty close.... As soon as I have time, I'm going to add a bit more to the valving to get it where I like. [the DRZ shock has nice 2 stage valving, but it's way to soft for that 500# spring]
As for bump stops, Pro Circuit makes a larger one for a KX 500 that works really well [on the 500], I'm going to see if the shaft size is the same and maybe try it on the 650.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:10 AM   #1545
Petrolburner
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Let me know how that bump stop works. I think that would be my best solution.
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