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Old 09-09-2012, 11:55 AM   #1
troutbum33 OP
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Sheared oil bolt in sump. How to get it out?

I got some good advice from guys following another thread while this happened. But I want to think through all my options and procedure very carefully before i start taking things apart.

What happened: 1994 KLR. Putting the oil plug bolt back in after draining oil. It's one on the ones with the magnet in it. The bottom half of the bolt is hollow with this magnet in it. As I'm putting it in the bolt bound up on the washer and the extra torque sheared the bolt off where it goes from solid to hollow housing the magnet.

Up until a few hours ago I had not heard of a left hand drill bit. You can see where this is going. I try drilling for an easy out but of course the center of the sheared portion is the magnet and wont drill. Then it catches and threads the remains of the bolt right through into my oil sump.

Now I have a 1/4 piece of bolt and magnet in my oil sump.

What are my options for trying to get it out starting with the least invasive? I really don't want to tear this whole engine apart.
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Old 09-09-2012, 12:18 PM   #2
bomber1965
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This is one route...drill for an oversize drain plug, then fishout the loose bits with a fine wire, time consuming and tedious, but can be done.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230338

Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedsprint View Post
Helicoil or a timesert is your best deal, problem is kawasaki aluminum is pretty soft, so this happens pretty often, when it happened on my KX500, I bought a drainplug within a drainplug at napa auto parts if I recall. You basically tap the hole to the size of the bolt they sell you, which has its own smaller o-ring sealed bolt in the middle, that way you don't keep putting wear on the threads you just cut. It worked fine for me up until the day I sold it. (and yes I told the new owner about it) Chances are both of our bikes being kawasakis, the napa bolt is likely the next size up for you.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:08 PM   #3
eakins
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lay the bike sideways then use
8 piece Easy Out Screw Bolt Extractor Set
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:11 PM   #4
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Dang,dont take much torque for a drain bolt,yet they keep shearing off.Odd.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:16 PM   #5
Doorguy1979
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Good luck....
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:59 PM   #6
troutbum33 OP
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I think I'm liable to make thinks worse if I start tearing it apart. First bike, never opened up a KLR.
Anyone in Boise Idaho with experience willing to help?
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:11 PM   #7
TcRulz
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Sorry for your troubles. I have to assume all the oils now out of it. Can you lay it on its side and get a magnet on a flexible shaft and fish around through the dipstick hole. Don't know anything about KLR's but just trying to help
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:39 PM   #8
cjbiker
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I was able to fish out 99% of the broken doohickey on my KLR by taking off the inner and outer left side covers and fishing around in the sump with a magnet I soldered to a piece of copper wire. Run a strong magnet around underneath the sump to find the broken pieces and position them so you can fish them out through the access provided by removing the left side covers.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:44 PM   #9
troutbum33 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
I was able to fish out 99% of the broken doohickey on my KLR by taking off the inner and outer left side covers and fishing around in the sump with a magnet I soldered to a piece of copper wire. Run a strong magnet around underneath the sump to find the broken pieces and position them so you can fish them out through the access provided by removing the left side covers.
It's not pieces, it's the solid bolt shaft.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:51 PM   #10
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keswind View Post
I dropped a valve shim into the bottom of an '07 klr. Saw it as an excuse to upgrade the doohickey. Got a rotor holding wrench/puller from eagle mike and while I had the stator cover and the next innermost engine case thingy off I was able to get the valve shim out with one of those extendable magnets on a stick (or maybe it was a piece of copper wire don't remember).

Point is you probably don't have to "tear the whole engine apart" to get the broken bolt out. Just some of it. I've never had the clutch side cover off so maybe you can get access to the bottom center of the engine that way and won't even have to remove the rotor by going in through the left side of the engine like i described.
There's less access to the sump via the clutch side, IIRC.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:52 PM   #11
steve_k
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Get a bigger magnet and run it along the bottom of the case to the drain hole to pull out the broken stuff?
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:56 PM   #12
cjbiker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_k View Post
Get a bigger magnet and run it along the bottom of the case to the drain hole to pull out the broken stuff?
Won't work since it's part of drain plug - it won't fit through the drain hole. Best bet is through the left side. Been there, done that.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:21 PM   #13
bomber1965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troutbum33 View Post


Up until a few hours ago I had not heard of a left hand drill bit. You can see where this is going.


Well maybe you never heard of a boroscope/borescope either. There pretty cheap now a days. rent borrow or buy one.







then pop off a side cover and peak into a casting hole to find and retrieve said offending bits.





....you can do it!

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Old 09-09-2012, 11:52 PM   #14
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber1965 View Post
This is one route...drill for an oversize drain plug, then fishout the loose bits . . .
I'd try this, before attempting to split the cases.

Drill a hole large enough to remove the plug shaft remnant. Then, the hole can be tapped for a larger plug (if there's enough "meat" left around the hole, no need for an insert--the crankcase metal can be tapped for the threads of the larger plug, IMHO. If insufficient metal remains around the hole for confident re-threading, and insert can be considered.).

If re-tapping's not feasible, I'd have the casehalves built up with weld metal, then drill and tap the new built-up volume for a replacement plug..

Good luck!
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:04 PM   #15
troutbum33 OP
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Happy trail professional prognosis

Well first there were a few heartfelt "i'm really sorry's" from my man John at Happy Trail.
His bottom line, we're going to have to tear it all down and split the case to remove your bolt from the sump. $700 minimum labor, not counting all the gaskets and everything, and whatever else we may find.
I asked him about my chance of lucking out and getting at it with a mighty worm magnet. He said my only chance is the right side.
I need everything you guys can tell me about getting into the sump, every possible avenue. Every idea to get this bolt shaft out without complete disassembly.
Thanks in advance,
T33
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