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Old 12-12-2011, 10:32 AM   #1576
IDRIDR
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
I'll post pics of the opened can if there is anything to look at afterwards....lol
If I can relieve that restriction maybe it will flow better and allow a few ponies to run harder?

Just a thought?
Here's something to compare with:
http://www.ravenshadow.com/KLR650/mods/index.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200310250...t/exhaust.html
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=176286
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:51 AM   #1577
willys
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Well....that stops me from cutting mine down the length of it! If I were to cut into it now, I would just lop off that expansion chamber and try that. Then if still not enough, I may go in again and carefully cut out the spark arrester...? But I have a 1/2" hole through mine now as it is. I can always send a larger drill down the pipe and open it up a bit more. But that would mean it would be a straight through 1/3rd pipe if you follow the hot gasses diagram.

So, it comes down to......will I be happy with the LEXX and forget the stocker or move on and figure something else out?
Whatever the answer is, I won't be riding with a loud muffler for long or at all if I can help it.
It was very interesting to see inside the expansion chamber. Something new for me. Also put a stop to what I had in mind.
Hope this helps...
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:51 AM   #1578
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
Well....that stops me from cutting mine down the length of it!
Darn! I should have waited to gaggle that up. I wanted to see pics!
Hope it helped.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:33 PM   #1579
willys
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I had seen the diagrams of the inside of the end part before where the hot gasses are directed, but had never seen inside the actual expansion chamber. I can see know why the can is getting hot where it is. It needs to be better directed before it gets into the tube part of the can IMHO then adapted a bit in it itself. I have already done the tweety mod my way and drilled out the spark arrester(I don't ride in any forested areas that are patroled) so I don't need to worry about that end of it.
So, I'm going to see what the difference is with the LEXX slip-on and go from there. No sense ripping open a can for no reason. It would be better to remove the expansion chamber....? Maybe flow wise.
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Old 12-12-2011, 05:15 PM   #1580
RevBill
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.. yeesh ..

I just want a exhaust/silencer that works without all that packing crap and doesn't roar ..

.. then again .. I kinda dig that the stock exhaust sounds almost exactly like my '74 Super Beetle ..

.. churdle .. churdle .. churdle .. churdle .. churdle ..
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:50 PM   #1581
KG6BWS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevBill View Post
I just want a exhaust/silencer that works without all that packing crap and doesn't roar ..
..
Dont think that even exists...
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Old 12-13-2011, 06:05 AM   #1582
willys
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Staintune.......but sit down and sell your firstborn....
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:50 AM   #1583
Byork
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Modification? No Holes Req'd Pelican Mounting

I think this is more of an anti-mod, but I didn't know where else to post it. I haven't looked around much at how everyone is mounting their Pelican top case, but here's how I mounted mine. It's a 1550.
No holes req'd in bike for this mounting. found some scrap metal, drilled one hole for the bolt and one hole for the hook under the handle (keeps case from shifting forward or backward). All I had to buy was two bolts and wing nuts (the case was found at a yard sale for $20 :)...). The case comes on or off in seconds.
It works well when riding two-up...makes a good sturdy backrest for the GF.

In case you're wondering, the battery was flat when I tried to fire it up so it didn't get to play in the snow.









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Old 12-13-2011, 09:06 AM   #1584
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Auto Modification

My bike decided to modify itself. It threw off one of the turn signal lenses going down the road. I found it and UnModified it with some zip ties in true KLR form.

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Old 12-13-2011, 12:07 PM   #1585
willys
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You could always whitle a new stalk for your indicators from a branch at the next campsite.....lol....if bought from new, there was a recall for rotting rubber such as that. Or you can just shorten yours with some clever thinking....
Hey, what's that deep white sand all over the place????
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Old 12-13-2011, 04:59 PM   #1586
Gammason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys View Post
if bought from new, there was a recall for rotting rubber such as that.
Even if you didn't buy it new, you can still get the recall work done. http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame...OSEVEHICLE.ASP

Put in you VIN and it'll tell you if you have any outstanding recall work. I did this with my 2008 and had the lights replaced. Took the dealer 2 1/2 hours and I lost a rack bolt on my way home (30 miles). Needless to say they are not doing the recall on the wiring harness. :-)

Oh, and I printed out the recall work that needed to be done, and the dealer appreciated that, as well as showing them where I got the info in the first place. Doohhh!
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Old 12-13-2011, 05:48 PM   #1587
trekkerguy
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Mounting Plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by Breakerboy View Post
I think this is more of an anti-mod, but I didn't know where else to post it. I haven't looked around much at how everyone is mounting their Pelican top case, but here's how I mounted mine. It's a 1550.
No holes req'd in bike for this mounting. found some scrap metal, drilled one hole for the bolt and one hole for the hook under the handle (keeps case from shifting forward or backward). All I had to buy was two bolts and wing nuts (the case was found at a yard sale for $20 :)...). The case comes on or off in seconds.
It works well when riding two-up...makes a good sturdy backrest for the GF.

In case you're wondering, the battery was flat when I tried to fire it up so it didn't get to play in the snow.









I used a Caribou Mounting plate for my Pelican. You achieved the same result.... Made my job easy but I know yours was less expensive . these boxes are great ! This is the second bike I have put this on from 4 years ago .





Mark-
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trekkerguy screwed with this post 12-13-2011 at 05:49 PM Reason: spelling
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Old 12-15-2011, 01:23 AM   #1588
hoyks
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Location: SE Qld.au
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I have been toying with the idea of lowering the foot pegs for a while but never got around to it. I made some lowering plates, but as I already have a center stand and crash bars, the pegs are already starting to poke out a bit. Another 1/4" isn't that much, but the bolts will be under a bit more stress, then there is the added complexity of brackets bolted to brackets and more stuff sticking down below the frame.

So, this week the mother in law is visiting, so I headed to the shed, fired up the TIG and kept myself out of the way for an evening.


So here is my offering:



I figured I could still make use of the lowering plates so I unbolted the foot pegs and bolted them on facing up instead of down.

I took the stock peg brackets and hack-sawed off the box bits that the foot pegs pivot on. After cleaning them up with a grinder they were tacked onto the lowering plates while making sure there was enough room to get the mounting bolts back in. As they are it's a bit close now. They can only be installed with a spanner, the socket has no hope of fitting in there.



After a clean up on the grinder and a coat of Rustgard epoxy paint and modifying the stand spring hook so it fits around the bracket, they bolted straight on. I haven't taken it for a ride yet but in the shed standing up on the pegs is more comfortable as I'm not bent over as much. It is only a bit over an inch, but it makes a difference.

Down side is I have run out of adjustment on the brake pedal. Looks like I will have to modify the pedal somehow to drop it down a bit more. Other than that it seems to be successful.




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Old 12-15-2011, 09:01 AM   #1589
Jettn Jim
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Nice job man....
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:55 AM   #1590
willys
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On my list to do, better than lowering brackets in the long run....imho.
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