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Old 02-26-2012, 09:26 AM   #2266
Dblarrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
Got it in the mail today. Using my old stapler as a reference. Pretty easy to install.



I assume this to be a replacement pad? Might I ask which it is? Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:52 AM   #2267
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seatconcepts
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:54 AM   #2268
Dblarrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
seatconcepts
Thanks much.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:21 AM   #2269
Yokomo
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Here she is mounted up.



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Old 02-26-2012, 11:26 AM   #2270
ROYAL COACHMAN
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Wow!
Beautiful job Yokomo!
You make that look easy
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #2271
JSEARS
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkfQL...LqjhlNNEPnQYmn
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:09 PM   #2272
Yokomo
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Originally Posted by ROYAL COACHMAN View Post
Wow!
Beautiful job Yokomo!
You make that look easy
Thank you. It wasn't too bad. I sent in my other 2 seats a year ago or so and had them do it because I didn't think I could.
The key is to put the front of the seat over the edge of your kitchen table so when you're pushing down you're not flattening out the seat. If not, the upholstery looks nice and tight and then you lift it up and the wrinkles appear.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:10 PM   #2273
Bigger Al
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Do these KLR's need longer cables when going with risers and/or tall bars? I'm sure there must be some point where they do....

Thanks!
I've got a Tusk riser kit between my bars and Rox risers, bringing the total to just over 3". I didn't need to replace the cables.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:22 PM   #2274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yokomo View Post
Thank you. It wasn't too bad. I sent in my other 2 seats a year ago or so and had them do it because I didn't think I could.
The key is to put the front of the seat over the edge of your kitchen table so when you're pushing down you're not flattening out the seat. If not, the upholstery looks nice and tight and then you lift it up and the wrinkles appear.
Looks great - but, has it passed the butt test? Several hours and a few hundred miles of test?
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:31 PM   #2275
Rochesterue
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Headlight adjustment

How do I adjust the aim of the headlight on my 2001? I've tried searching, lots of hits for the 2008+ but couldn't find anything helpful for mine.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:02 PM   #2276
Yokomo
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Looks great - but, has it passed the butt test? Several hours and a few hundred miles of test?
Nope. Just got it Saturday night and installed it right away. Probably did 40 miles today. But I've had one on my KLX for over a year and I like it.
You can see some differences in the 2. The sides are more satin instead of shiny, and the stitching is different. I like the changes of the newer style.

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Old 02-26-2012, 05:45 PM   #2277
rawdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRCRZR View Post
I have shared most of this in the past and in other threads but thought I would add some pics here as well.

Not long after I got my KLR I decided I needed a set of cases for it. I was really liking the pelican 1430's so I decided to make a set of mounts. I surfed around a few of the sites looking at designs and attaching points and then set in to make my own. Since this was my first time working with steel I decided to keep it simple and use square tubing, straight lines and angle cuts. I am a carpenter by trade so I can work within these boundaries.


So next up I decided I needed a set of Crash bars so in true KLR owner fashion I decided to make them myself as well..I can't seem to find my build pics but again I used square tubing and common mounting points. These have also been on the bike through several seasons and many low speed get off's




I will have to admit that every time I am on the fence about selling the old girl and getting a cool new 800 or something I write up something like this and remember all I have done to and with my KLR..I think it is going to stay around for a while longer..
Nice! I like the crash bars!
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:57 PM   #2278
DirtyDog
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Today was the culmination of my stock shock rebuild.

Originally began HERE.

So my parts arrived a few days ago, and I got to reassembly yesterday with an onlooking inmate JumpJet enjoying a cold beer.

I was doing a final cleaning of all the shock parts including a light sanding with some 400 grit paper (mostly on the outside of the shock reservoir tube. I noticed that the piston shaft had some pretty significant wear on it. I tried my damndest, but this is the best pic I could get.



When running my finger over the wear area, it was clear that this weasn't gonna work. The area was about 1.5 inches in length and would probably result in a rapidly failing seal.

Ok, guess I need to go to plan B. I have a second shock on the bike, so I got to removing that one to see if rebuilding it would be a better option. It was.

Of course, I had to remove the progressive spring. Good excuse to use the Throttlemeister Spring Squisher 3000. Hopefully, it is self-explanatory.



This shock had fewer miles on it and though it too had a visible wear area, it was nowhere near the size and extremity as the original shock. Couldn't really feel it when running a finger over it.



The inside of the tube was smoother on shock #2 as well, so I used all parts from the second shock for the rebuild.

First part to go on the rebuilt shock is a new bumper. Something is off here...


Since I wasn't interested in reducing my shock travel any more than stock, I trimmed down the bumper with a razorblade to match the stock height.

Next, I installed the new seal head with new o-ring. The piston o-ring they sent appeared way too small (mistake?), so I just re-used the one already on there. It still had a crown on it, unlike the squared-off one on the other shock. This isnt the part that keeps the oil in the shock anyhow, so I felt it was of less importance than the seal head.

Reassembled the shock fully, as per the instructions and filled it with 130cc of 3wt shock oil (from MotorcycleSuperstore). I used a 10cc syringe with some air tubing while the shock was clamped upright in a vise.

Reinstalled the schrader valve and gently warmed the shock with a propane torch to get all the air up top where it belongs. Then I purged the air by squishing the shock until oil came out. Did this several times just to be sure.

My buddy _cy_ came over with a nitrogen tank and we added 150psi. Put the spring back on, and voila... we have a rebuilt shock for very little $.



Easy project. Minimal cost. I think anyone with an ounce of sense (and coordination) could probably do this.

Some things I learned along the way... "tips" if you will...
1. There are two holes in the shock tube cap. These holes facilitate removal, but they also allow grit to get in there with the seal head. I plan to fill these holes with silicone to help prevent this.
2. When removing the massive stack of shims, washers, etc. from the piston, place a ziptie in the hole of the piston shaft and remove the shim stack as one unit, threading it right on to the zip tie. Close the zip tie and don't open it until you go to reinstall, reversing the process. No worries about the order or configuration of all those shims.
3. The spring has to be removed to do the air purging and nitrogen fill. I got ahead of myself and fully reassembled a bit to early. If installing/ removing the spring weren't so easy with the Throttlemeister Spring Squisher 3000, it would have been a PITA.
4. Make sure that before you reinstall the spring and mount the shock, confirm the preload and rebound adjustments are facing opposite ways. I did this by dumb luck, and it would have been a PITA to discover this later.

If I think of anything else, I'll update here...
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:13 PM   #2279
Dusty_Bottoms
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Adjust Headlight on Gen 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochesterue View Post
How do I adjust the aim of the headlight on my 2001? I've tried searching, lots of hits for the 2008+ but couldn't find anything helpful for mine.

Thanks for the help.
standing in front of the bike, look at the left side of the headlight, there's a little notch in the plastic where you put a screwdriver. that will adjust the side to side angle of the light.

to adjust the up/down, you need to get your hand up under the fairing on the right side of the light (looking at the front of the bike) and there's a 10mm bolt head. loosen that and the cam that holds the light will be loose enough to move up and down, it took me quite a bit of trial and error to get it right.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:16 PM   #2280
tommu56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post



.
What is the ID of the hole for the spring compressor and the over all length?
I'd like to copy it if you don't mind


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