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Old 07-21-2012, 08:58 AM   #3226
VikB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
For those who dont know how to adjust their counterbalancer chain tension, under the right side of the crankase below the alternator housing is a black rubber plug. Pull it out. Behind it is silver bolt head - 8mm socket - give that a 3/4 loosten turn. Do that every 3-5 k miles. Then, tighten it back up. If your spring has enough tension - that action will have taken up any slack in the chain. That bolt locks the Doo in place.
+1 - Good tip, but be gentle when you tighten that bolt up. You don't need to go caveman on it...
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Old 07-21-2012, 11:25 AM   #3227
Jettn Jim
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by VikB View Post
+1 - Good tip, but be gentle when you tighten that bolt up. You don't need to go caveman on it...
I don't trust any torsion spring really... I usually wait until I pull the cover to adjust every 10-12,000mi. Not that I haven't adjusted it before hand, but if you do and the spring is shot/broke then your opening up a whole nother can of worms.
Last month my buddy Parepins EM torsion was found in TWO pieces, he'd adjusted it while it was broke and had a nice loose chain kicking around in the case, sooo just goes to show they can ALL fail.


Yes I use an EM torsion and your results may vary........
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:16 PM   #3228
half_price_beemer
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[QUOTE=GSMotorrad;19173794]This was on an '09?? How many miles did the doo go out? Pics? So you're testifying that the gen II's still need a new doo? Did Eagle Mike put you up to this?[/QUOTE

He's innocent, I post this on my own accord, I had just clipped off my 12,305th mile when tragedy struck, I'll post the pics of the the broken doo on my engine swap thread when I post it.
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:30 PM   #3229
DesertDuster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doorguy1979 View Post
When I did the doo on my 08 I had waited almost 18000 miles, and not only was my chain really sloppy, I could move the stock doo almost a 1/4 inch past where the spring ran out by hand, Went with the torsion spring setup and man my bike is ALOT quieter, still sounds like the sewing machine, but the running chain noise is down alot.
What is involved in replacing just the spring on the Gen 2 models? I would imagine it is much less involved than the doo replacement. Do you have a write up on it?
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Old 07-21-2012, 08:59 PM   #3230
stefer
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Originally Posted by DesertDuster View Post
What is involved in replacing just the spring on the Gen 2 models? I would imagine it is much less involved than the doo replacement. Do you have a write up on it?
I just did my doo today on my 06. My understanding is that the process is identical for the gen 2 bikes.

I haven't fired the bike up yet, as I am giving time for the RTV sealant I used to dry (IE: I haven't put oil in the motor yet).

I installed the torsion spring. It involves removal of the doohickey, since the torsion spring sits under the doo and the hole that you drill is also is under the doohickey.

Basically replacing the doohickey or just installing the torsion spring is basically the same amount of work. If you do the torsion spring, I'd just go ahead and put in the eagle mike one anyways. It is about 30 bucks and reduces (albeit minimally) the chance of a horror story.

Also, the eagle mike doohickey is chamfered I think making the installation of the torsion spring slightly easier. Even with that it took me alotta attempts and probably took about 20-30 minutes for me to get on.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:14 PM   #3231
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Desert Duster, if you jump to about 4:30 in the following youtube video, you can see what I mean...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26oSOrvv_e8
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Red 2006 KLR 650 - Odometer: Much too low
Profound quote:
Quote:
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Anxiety weighs down the heart, but a kind word cheers it up.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #3232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefer View Post
I just did my doo today on my 06. My understanding is that the process is identical for the gen 2 bikes.

I haven't fired the bike up yet, as I am giving time for the RTV sealant I used to dry (IE: I haven't put oil in the motor yet).

I installed the torsion spring. It involves removal of the doohickey, since the torsion spring sits under the doo and the hole that you drill is also is under the doohickey.

Basically replacing the doohickey or just installing the torsion spring is basically the same amount of work. If you do the torsion spring, I'd just go ahead and put in the eagle mike one anyways. It is about 30 bucks and reduces (albeit minimally) the chance of a horror story.

Also, the eagle mike doohickey is chamfered I think making the installation of the torsion spring slightly easier. Even with that it took me alotta attempts and probably took about 20-30 minutes for me to get on.
+1 to this. The work involved in changing the quadrant, changing just the spring, or just stripping the bike so you can check its condition is substantially the same. All three operations involve pulling the LH cover and pulling the flywheel, which is the bit that requires the special tools. The reasoning is that once you have gone this far, it is a trivial exercise to replace the stock spring and quadrant while you are in there.

The stock quadrant on the '08 and later KLRs will probably never break, but it is indexed on the shaft to give at most one adjustment on the stock spring. The Eagle Mike quadrant is indexed to give a greater range of adjustment. With a torsion spring, you can probably keep adjusting to well past the point where the balancer chain needs replacement.

You can find the basic instructions for the procedure on Marknet.com or leftcoastklrs.com
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:38 PM   #3233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. matteeanne View Post
New to me 09'
Just bought Oxford heated grips (open ended) Bark Buster hand guards and a kaeko throttle lock (designed to coexist with the bark busters)
But after removing the end weights from the bike, it appears the 09 does not have an open ended handle bar, a threaded portion has been welded to the end of the bar? Can this be easily removed or do I need new bars?
Yes they can be removed quite easily. Just take a small grinding wheel and grind down the two spot welds that attach it to the bars.(Well mine had just two spot welds on each bar end). Dress the inside of the bar with a rat tail file and the out side edges witha flat file, youre good to go.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:51 AM   #3234
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Blah. Fired (or attempted to) up the bike. After doing the dohickey.

No go. Sounds like the starter motor is a little bit labored. Possible that was just battery drain. Also there was a pop (like a miniature backfire - but it was cold out so I suppose that was unrelated?)

Also, the sound of the starter was a little bit "cleaner" so to speak - it didn't have that metal on metal sound (bear with me). I think that indicates the starter motor is not engaged.

Would all of this indicate that I put a gear in backward or something? I could have sworn I put everything back the way it was.

I guess I'll have to split it open again, but is there anything else I should be on the lookout for?
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Red 2006 KLR 650 - Odometer: Much too low
Profound quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Ancient Proverb
Anxiety weighs down the heart, but a kind word cheers it up.
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Old 07-22-2012, 06:59 AM   #3235
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I have found some ambiguity about the tourque specifications for the rotorbolt.

I've heard 110 ft-lbs, 120 ft-lbs, and 130 ft-lbs. This is after tightening to 85 ft-lbs then backing out.

I did 120. Could the extra 10 lbs be the difference?
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Rolla, MO Rider
Red 2006 KLR 650 - Odometer: Much too low
Profound quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Ancient Proverb
Anxiety weighs down the heart, but a kind word cheers it up.
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:07 AM   #3236
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[QUOTE=judjonzz;19183959

The stock quadrant on the '08 and later KLRs will probably never break, but it is indexed on the shaft to give at most one adjustment on the stock spring. The Eagle Mike quadrant is indexed to give a greater range of adjustment. With a torsion spring, you can probably keep adjusting to well past the point where the balancer chain needs replacement.

You can find the basic instructions for the procedure on Marknet.com or leftcoastklrs.com[/QUOTE]

+1

For those contemplating the task- some background;

1. The stock design uses a spring from the crankcase to the adjusting lever behind the quadrant(Doo). The doo is used only for locking the shaft in place after the spring has adjusted the tension.
2. EMike sells springs wound to his specs of different lengths that work with the stock design - an option for Gen 11.
3. The EMike designed doo works with the stock design (straight spring) and his design of the torsion spring. When the torsion spring is used, the 'doo' acts not only as a lever but also the locking mechanisn. The actual lever is then redundant.
4. The reason for the torsion spring is that its 'pull' or adjustment throw is a lot longer than a straight spring can be.
5. Another EMike design change besides the one piece bullet SS doo, its extra throw or quardrant, is that the stacked tolerance in the Kawa system between the 'doo' and the non-centric shaft is often such that there is a lot of slop between the two making the tension of the chain sloppy too. EMike 'doo' fits tightly on the shart.

There are copies of the EMike quadrant/doo and springs on the market. Mike carefully chose not only the materials and design changes, but from the above discussion, who his material suppliers are. His parts, made by himself, ensures they are American made too! The 'other' copies- who knows where they come from?

What ever Doo/quadrant/spring system you choose to use, having a spring that is able to take up the chain wear is essential. As it is not an automatic adjustment system like the cam chain, dont neglect to perform the tension service!
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:12 AM   #3237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefer View Post
I have found some ambiguity about the tourque specifications for the rotorbolt.

I've heard 110 ft-lbs, 120 ft-lbs, and 130 ft-lbs. This is after tightening to 85 ft-lbs then backing out.

I did 120. Could the extra 10 lbs be the difference?
The alternator rotor bolt torque for the +08 is 144ft lbs. ( as stated in the official workshop manual). I dont have the pre 08 spec., but for some reason Kawa increased the torque. Same bolt is used for both Gen's.

Make a difference? My torque wrench only goes to 100, so I gave it another 1/4 turn - all on a previously used bolt (You have to do what you have to do to get going!) . That was 30 k miles ago.

Tsotsie screwed with this post 07-22-2012 at 07:24 AM
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:22 AM   #3238
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judjonzz View Post
The stock quadrant on the '08 and later KLRs will probably never break, but it is indexed on the shaft to give at most one adjustment on the stock spring.
While appreciating the extended adjustment range of aftermarket doohickeys (idler shaft levers), the OEM part accommodates only ONE balancer chain tension adjustment?

Maybe so; however, don't recall any reports of anyone exhausting the adjustment range of even a stock doohickey; certainly after only one procedure. Not to say the phenomenon doesn't exist; I ain't seen 'em all!
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:27 AM   #3239
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefer View Post
Blah. Fired (or attempted to) up the bike. After doing the dohickey.

No go. Sounds like the starter motor is a little bit labored. Possible that was just battery drain. Also there was a pop (like a miniature backfire - but it was cold out so I suppose that was unrelated?)

Also, the sound of the starter was a little bit "cleaner" so to speak - it didn't have that metal on metal sound (bear with me). I think that indicates the starter motor is not engaged.

Would all of this indicate that I put a gear in backward or something? I could have sworn I put everything back the way it was.

I guess I'll have to split it open again, but is there anything else I should be on the lookout for?

YES!

Do not attempt to run the bike without pulling it apart and finding the problem. Look specifically for the shims that sit on the gear ends, in addition to the big gears and other large parts.
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:32 AM   #3240
SkiBumBrian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefer View Post
Blah. Fired (or attempted to) up the bike. After doing the dohickey.

No go. Sounds like the starter motor is a little bit labored. Possible that was just battery drain. Also there was a pop (like a miniature backfire - but it was cold out so I suppose that was unrelated?)

Also, the sound of the starter was a little bit "cleaner" so to speak - it didn't have that metal on metal sound (bear with me). I think that indicates the starter motor is not engaged.

Would all of this indicate that I put a gear in backward or something? I could have sworn I put everything back the way it was.

I guess I'll have to split it open again, but is there anything else I should be on the lookout for?
Sounds like you didn't get the rotor oriented on the shaft/keyway properly effectively changing your timing. Happens fairly often. Pull the rotor off and you will probably find a mangled key in the keyway.......
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