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Old 12-29-2012, 06:04 AM   #3886
marc11
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Location: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
Just installed the following this past week,

IMS 10 GAL tank
EBC big brake kit
Galfer ss line
Oxford heaterz grips
Eastern Beaver fuse block
Hardwired USB charging port for standard, micro and iPhone charging.
MSR folding shift lever
Tool tube
Waterproof iPhone holder


This is on top of my already installed SW rear rack plate, HT tenton side cans, HT highway pegs, skid plate, bark busters, doo, Thermo Bob, volt monitor, rear master guard, hid low beam, led flashimg brake light, led turn signals, led dash and indicator lights, fork brace, subframe bolts upgraded, klx needle and .22 cent mod and a few other things I am sure I am forgetting.

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Old 12-29-2012, 06:14 AM   #3887
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc11 View Post
Just installed the following this past week,

IMS 10 GAL tank
EBC big brake kit
Galfer ss line
Oxford heaterz grips
Eastern Beaver fuse block
Hardwired USB charging port for standard, micro and iPhone charging.
MSR folding shift lever
Tool tube
Waterproof iPhone holder


This is on top of my already installed SW rear rack plate, HT tenton side cans, HT highway pegs, skid plate, bark busters, doo, Thermo Bob, volt monitor, rear master guard, hid low beam, led flashimg brake light, led turn signals, led dash and indicator lights, and a few other things I am sure I am forgetting.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
If you don't have pictures, it didn't happen !!!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:28 AM   #3888
ThomasVolomitz
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You mean show us don't tell us?
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:30 AM   #3889
marc11
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Fair enough. Here you go, this was just before I put the big brake rotor on.




Odd grammar, words and spelling brought to you by my iPhone's autocorrect.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:56 AM   #3890
GAS GUY
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Marc11- Nicely setup. Have you tried out the big brake kit yet ? If so, how much better than stock ?
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:03 AM   #3891
marc11
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Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Marc11- Nicely setup. Have you tried out the big brake kit yet ? If so, how much better than stock ?
No not yet. We had snow the day I put it on and more snow today. Have to wait it out a bit.

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Old 12-29-2012, 08:38 AM   #3892
Jettn Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky151 View Post
I just got my Rekluse clutch installed in mine, and holy crap. Had one little adventure figuring some of the tuning out, but hurt my pride more than anything else. Pretty dumb ass move on my part.

Either way, the new clutch is amazing, now the roads just need to thaw out so I can really test it.
Been contemplating one a these..... keep us posted!
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:33 PM   #3893
IDRIDR
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Electrical Relays

Question on electrical relays for you electrician types:

I'm considering running low and high beams on separate relays as I've seen posted before. I also want to add grip heaters, a power outlet, and auxiliary lights. The plan is to wire the auxiliary lights to the high beam relay. Low beam relay will be triggered from the city lights circuit (which I assume is always on in the ignition "run" position) so the low beam will always be on, with the high beam switch triggering the high beam/auxiliary light relay. I will also wire the grip heaters and power outlet to the low beam relay. One new fused wire from the battery to power this equipment. Voltmeter to be installed.

So my question to those who know...is this a logical approach? Or do I need to complicate things with additional relays or other equipment? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:28 PM   #3894
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Any other suggestions?
TPI sells a "plug 'n' play" dual-relay harness for KLR's; requires one hot wire connection to battery (fused lead) and one frame ground connection proximate to headlight connector.

You could use this for your scheme; use city lights circuit for control voltage to low beam relay; tap off high and low beam power leads for your other circuits.

Harness is intended for trick "Canadian" headlight bulb (sold by TPI also), which I found highly effective. Don't see a need for simultaneous high and low beams myself with the trick bulb, but YMMV. Assume reflector could stand the heat from simultaneous high and low beam filament activation; assume chosen harness battery hot wire fuse will handle simultaneously current from high and low beams, grip heaters, auxiliary lights, and auxiliary power outlet load.

Might check overall wattage against stock stator output; might be pushin' it!
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:26 AM   #3895
ThomasVolomitz
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Yesterday did the EM Doo. It was a cold 18 degree F 30 mile ride to my buddy's garage but am glad to have the Doo done. Used the torsion spring.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:25 AM   #3896
GO_OUTSIDE!
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I would rather have heated grips than 2 filaments burning in my headlight.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:06 AM   #3897
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jettn Jim View Post
Been contemplating one a these..... keep us posted!
I have about 35K on an EBC 320 front rotor. Someone calculated 18% more stopping power - I can believe it. Once at about 50mph I lifted the rear wheel in a 'stoppy' when a deer 'crossed' the road in front of me in West Texas!

If your have bought an EBC rotor, I stongly suggest that you use neither the EBC HH nor the Kawa stock HH pads. While stopping the bike well, they score the rotor badly. Get the Galpher Green pads.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:06 AM   #3898
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Question on electrical relays for you electrician types:

I'm considering running low and high beams on separate relays as I've seen posted before. I also want to add grip heaters, a power outlet, and auxiliary lights. The plan is to wire the auxiliary lights to the high beam relay. Low beam relay will be triggered from the city lights circuit (which I assume is always on in the ignition "run" position) so the low beam will always be on, with the high beam switch triggering the high beam/auxiliary light relay. I will also wire the grip heaters and power outlet to the low beam relay. One new fused wire from the battery to power this equipment. Voltmeter to be installed.

So my question to those who know...is this a logical approach? Or do I need to complicate things with additional relays or other equipment? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
The heated grips should get its own relay.
Are you going to have a switch or rheostat for the heat control?
Generaly, if you run any kind of amperage through a switch they wont live long.
Use the heated grips switch to trigger the relay,and run the amperage to the grips through the relay.
You can also get mini relays,if you want smaller.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:46 AM   #3899
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
If your have bought an EBC rotor, I stongly suggest that you use neither the EBC HH nor the Kawa stock HH pads. While stopping the bike well, they score the rotor badly. Get the Galpher Green pads.
+ 1.

Switched from OEM pads to Galfer Greens after comparing rotor wear, Kawasaki pads vs. Galfer Greens.

Dealer had to "special order" the Galfer Greens; these pads did not show up in his Rocky catalog.

I find the "Greens" smooth, but effective. No pad-wear data yet, but appreciate the rotor smoothness, regardless . . .
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:44 AM   #3900
Qaz
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What does the Doohickey do on the KLR and what happens if it is not replaced?
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